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Registered
2014 Forester 2.5i
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123 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What tools do you use for changing spark plugs? This guy uses

1) Craftsman Through wrench
2) Flexible shaft socket wrench
3) Flexible shaft magnet
4) 19 mm socket to rotate the spark plug socket

Pretty cool trick. What do you use? Recommend?


What do you use? Recommend?
 
2017 2.5i Fozy CVT
Joined
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1,283 Posts
Lots of different drive adapters and extentions help.

Stealer wanted $600,independent wanted 300$, OREILLY WANTED 60$.... for the plugs.... I chose the later and a morning's time, after removing the battery and airbox.
 

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Registered
2014 Forester 2.5i
Joined
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123 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Lots of different drive adapters and extentions help.

Stealer wanted $600,independent wanted 300$, OREILLY WANTED 60$.... for the plugs.... I chose the later and a morning's time, after removing the battery and airbox.

What's the Oreilly adapter? The spark plug is the hardest part of maintaining a subaru and I want the right tools. Thanks!
 

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Premium Member
2019 Crosstrek 2018 XT
Joined
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14,129 Posts
For the EJ engine. An 8" ( or so) and 2 4" extensions ( 3\8" ) use a torque wrench in the ones you can and note the amount of rotation after hand tight. Use that amount on the ones where it's to hard to use torque wrench
 

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Registered
2007 XT Manual
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17 Posts
I had good luck with an 8" extension, a swivel and the spark plug socket. Best advice would be to go to the hardware store, get an extension set, swivel and one of those flexible shafts so you have some options to play around with. Way cheaper to DIY versus taking it in. Best of luck.
 

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09 forester
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235 Posts
I use a mix of 3/8 extensions, a low profile 3/8 ratchet, torque wrench and two plug sockets. One plug socket with the rubber boot to remove the plug, and one regular socket to tighten, so there's no chance of the socket rubber boot staying on the plug when you remove the socket. The inboard plugs, I put a short 3/8 extension into the tunnel, then add another short, then the socket wrench. It will be obvious when you do it the first time. there just isnt clearance in the engine well for one long extension and socket. To start the new plug I use a foot of vacuum line. Put the plug terminal into the line, feed it down the tunnel, and then turn the line to start the plug, so almost no chance of crossing threads. When the vacuum line starts to twist, the plug has started enough, pull the line and final torque with a regular deep socket (not a rubber boot plug socket) and torque wrench. Go to harbor freight for an extension set, you will need qty 2 short 3/8 extensions. You could do all four plugs with two short extensions pieced together, but where you have clearance for a long extension and socket, I find it easier.

I should invest in a magnetic plug socket. My plug socket is 30 years old, and rubber inside the socket to hold the plug is probably dry and will stay with a tightened plug when i pull the socket. Thats why I use a regular socket to final torque.
 
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