[TCARZ]

Hi. I'm a new 2010 FXP owner. It only has about 200 miles on it, but I'm already thinking about my first oil change. Subaru dealer says over 3k miles is soon enough. I say sooner would be better. What do you all think?

Another thing. I'm doing the changes myself. Can't see any sense in driving 70 miles to my Sub dealer for a "free oil change". Is there a special method for removing the oil filter? I read one post, where they said that they couldn't get the original break-in oil filter off, so just skipped it. I want to make sure that doesn't happen to me. I know that I have to be careful about oil getting on the exhaust pipes.

I got a few Subaru oil filters to use and plan to save receipts. I always keep a log of all work done on my cars. Is that all that is needed to keep it in warranty?

That's all for now. Thanx!

 

[rsay777]

I'm old school when it comes to changing oil/filter. First change at 1k miles. 3k from there on.

Everyone has their own preferences so go with what makes sense for you.

There is a plethora of info available on this forum.

 

[Peaty]

This is a huge can of worms to be sure. I do it the old school way myself although there is most likely no reason. First off there is no special break-in oil. Unless you mean the oil that's in the motor when you break it in I change the oil at 1K then 3K miles and every 3K after that. I like to use dino oil up till the 10K mile mark then I switch to synthetic. My Oil analysis says that is fine. Everyone has a different way to do it though.

Keeping a log of your changes is what you should do, you can even sign up on My.Subaru and log them in there too. You don't have to use Subaru branded oil filters but there is nothing wrong with them, they are good filters. It's not necessary though to keep your warranty. I use them but will soon run out, my other filter of choice is WIX if I can get them or Purolator Pure 1's. Changing the oil on a Subaru is pretty easy but the newer scoobies have the filter up there pretty tight against the manifold. You may want to get an end cap type of fitting to remove it.

 

[Duderotomy]

I'd hold in there until at least 500miles... but personally I'd have tried to stick with the recommended 1000miles.
If you aren't already running Synthetic... this first change would be an ideal time to make the change.

 

[adc]

No such thing as break in filter or oil. Change it whenever you want. You can use synthetic oil right away if you want.

Get this filter wrench and 10" 3/8" extension.

Lisle 63600

 

[TCARZ]

Wow! You guys are the greatest!

Now I feel confident that I can do it, as long as I have the right tools. I'll get the tools, so I'm ready, when she reaches the 1k mark.

Meanwhile, I'll be jackin her up to put on the RA mud guards. I blacked out the shiney mufflers and added the ss tips. Pretty spiffy! :biggrin:

I'll have to post pics when all the dealer options are put on next week. It'll be one sweet ride!

I couldn't have done it without you guys! :Banane35:

A BIG THANKS TO ALL OF YOU !

 

[RayinAlaska]

I asked the dealer to change the oil at 2,000 miles, but there was no need to change it that soon. While the manual indicates that you should not over-accelerate and to vary the motor's RPM during the break-in period, there is not break-in oil in the motor because the motors are put through a break-in period at the factory. The first oil change can be done any time you want within the number of miles shown in the manual.

I started using synthetic oils after 6,000 miles, but the type of oil you decide to use is your choice. I can use 5W-30 all year (summer and winter). The oil can be synthetic (if I can afford it), or regular oil, both of the correct viscosity.

 

[ForesterDave]

I did my first oil change at 7,000 miles at the dealer. Engine runs great and mileage is on par with specs.

 

[YVR Fozzie]

Dealership did my first oil change at 8200 kms. Since then, every 8000 unless I had a road trip looming. At 27000 after 5 months and not using any oil and mileage is good. Only issue I've had is after EVERY oil change, it smells like burning oil until I get underneath with a power wash wand. Design flaw?

 

[TCARZ]

I got the proper oil filter wrench and 10 in extension at Carquest. The wrench was even on sale! I consider myself much wiser and more confident about taking care of my FX, myself.

Thanx again!

 

[RayinAlaska]

I got the proper oil filter wrench and 10 in extension at Carquest. The wrench was even on sale! I consider myself much wiser and more confident about taking care of my FX, myself.

Thanx again!

Remember to read other threads about oil/filter changes. Also, make sure that you replace washer on the drain plug (the new filter comes with this washer), and that the O-ring on the old filter is still attached to it when you remove it.

 

[adc]

I got the proper oil filter wrench and 10 in extension at Carquest.

Yea..you'll love it. I have had mine for 25 years.. And when you put it up there and it contacts the filter turn it clockwise and the jaws open up and engage the filter. That way you don't even need to put your hand up there.

Make sure you wipe around the header in the vicinity of the filter to get any oil off of there.

The gasket on the filter plug is painted on there...you can work it off with a thin blade small screwdriver.

Also consider RhinoRamps makes the job soooooo easy.

 

[funkymonkey1002]

Yea..you'll love it. I have had mine for 25 years.. And when you put it up there and it contacts the filter turn it clockwise and the jaws open up and engage the filter. That way you don't even need to put your hand up there.

Make sure you wipe around the header in the vicinity of the filter to get any oil off of there.

The gasket on the filter plug is painted on there...you can work it off with a thin blade small screwdriver.

Also consider RhinoRamps makes the job soooooo easy.

+1 for rhino ramps. Although with a stock forester you can usually get under there without lifting it up at all.

 

[Bobiam]

Just read the manual!

If Subaru could prevent wear and reduce warrantee chaims by changing the oil at 200-500-1000 miles, they would do that....hey, they even charge most customers for the service, so why not? BUT, they don't..... because??..... It's a waste of time and money.

If you do change it under 1000, can I have the old oil? Just kidding, but at least put it in your lawn mower.

Changing your own is a good idea. There is a long thread here on oil filters, for what it's worth, that you may want to read. Definitely keep a log and try to keep all receipts for parts and oil. You can never be sure what will be demanded when there is a major failure of an engine.

Bob

 

[AlleyCat]

... there is not break-in oil in the motor because the motors are put through a break-in period at the factory.

Typically, after engines are assembled, they are started and run very briefly to insure spec operation. Thats it. Unless its a supercar or specialty engine, there is no extended engine break-in at the factory - this is a cost issue pure and simple. I would doubt may cost-sensitive engines even get "run" untill they are pulled out of the factory door - they may be electrically turned over to insure mechanical timing only given the ALDL port is not utilised to download build -specific prom software untill the chassis/body is at final assy/final QA. AFA intial fill in a new engine, We have UOA here to indicte that the "break in" oil (non-turbo) is 20wt with loads of moly - now, is the moly from the assy lube? I wouldnt leave 20w oil in this engine longer than necessary.

 

[Thermo1223]

Yes there is such a thing as a special break-in oil but in Honda's case it is a super concentrated additive for the oil. To my knowledge Honda is the only manufac. to do this.

Actually typically after a car is built it is taken around a quality control track outside the plant which is why no car arrived with 0 miles on the odometer. So yes the engine has started to be broken in.

YouTube - Factory Made (Lexus RX 350)

Typically engines aren't started until they are in the car but I'm sure there are some engines that they do test before being put in.

YouTube - Audi TDI - How it's made

Now these are all high end cars I admit but I think in the coming years even an economy car will receive such treatment to minimize failures.

The good thing for all engines, in all cars is you will almost never see any casting leftovers(at least you shouldn't) since they wash everything out.

The moly is most likely from assembly lube but why worry about the oil being a 20wt? That is just asinine to think it would do any harm. Have you ever considered the engineers count on the fact it will shear to 20wt to promote better break-in and increase oil flow so less heat is build up in critical areas during said break-in.

Personally I'm of the school that if you follow what the manufacture states then the dealer will have little say when you have a problem. If they do you clearly point out you did EVERYTHING right and that the car maker not you is at fault.

FWIW, the Rabbit's oil changes have been more or less every 5k miles since new. Mostly because of short trips in it's early life. First oil change was at 5k and it got 30 mpg doing 75 on the highway right before it. If it was me I'd just let it go and break-in it in without the granny syndrome. An engine has a redline for a reason, the reason is use all power up to that point.

 

[AlleyCat]

Yes there is such a thing as a special break-in oil but in Honda's case it is a super concentrated additive for the oil. To my knowledge Honda is the only manufac. to do this.
... ... Have you ever considered the engineers count on the fact it will shear to 20wt to promote better break-in and increase oil flow so less heat is build up in critical areas during said break-in.

On rod journals with large tolerances you risk a failed bearing since the oil viscosity is the major factor in bearing longevity. Bearing Tol can vary from 0.0005 to 0.0025"; what happens to the sloppy one? Also piston rocking and slap are major issue on newer vehicles due to short or NO skirts and low tension OC rings. Subaru absolutely does not have the best engine desigers in the business - given their ongoing major engine issues. Maybe they fired them or they retired after the 2.2L swan song. My engine failed driving off the lot - mayvbe thats why Im a touch sensitive. Two years earlier I had a Kia Rio 5SX 1.6 fail off the lot - another 20w fill.

 

[BigHank]

Oil Drain Plug torque

Going to due my first oil change on my new 2010 Forester.

Anyone know the torque setting for the oil drain plug ? Also anyone

know the torque for the oil filter. I hve a 2009 Chevy Silverado and it

oil filter torque is 22 ft/lbs. Also any know the torque on the read axle drain

and fill plugs and the front diff. drain plug? Thank you for any help.

 

[adc]

Filter 3/4 turn to 1 turn
Oil Drain Plug..Haynes value is 33 ft. lbs. I have never used over 30. I usually use 26 ft lbs. And with that value it is very tight to remove.

 

[TCARZ]

Is there a Chilton or Haynes manual for maintenance and general info available for 09 & 10 Foresters? I have one for my 96 Miata and it sure comes in handy.