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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I'm a noob on here, and a recent FXT owner. I am also a 4EAT owner, and wanted to know if there has been any negative impact on the AT since you upped the HP/TQ. Also, any specs on the duty cycles of the stock injectors with the bigger turbo/IC?
No negative impact thus far, but then again I use "mechanical compassion" on the driveline:

1. No power braking
2. I rarely hammer it in first gear
3. I rarely allow the tranny to shift under full throttle/boost

It's like when I had my '06 WRX with a 5MT - there were guys who would break the tranny with minimun mods and guys who were putting down over 350 WHP and never had any problems. Driveline survivability is almost entirely dictated by the behavior of the driver.

I don't have the duty cycle numbers, but with any VFxx turbo the stock injectors are usually not a limitation.

Thanks again for taking a look and commenting!
 

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2017 VW Golf SportWagen 5MT
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If you could log, I'd be curious to see your IDC as well. I'm at 85% on WOT pull at 14psi. After the retune I'm planning soon with this new exhaust and header I bet I'll be limited by injector size.

Stan
 

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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
If you could log, I'd be curious to see your IDC as well. I'm at 85% on WOT pull at 14psi. After the retune I'm planning soon with this new exhaust and header I bet I'll be limited by injector size.

Stan
I plan on getting back to the tuner in April, so I will get the IDC then.
 

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2006 Impreza WRX with PPP Manual of course! ;-)
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After 58,000 miles I finally had to replace the brakes. A full report can be found here.

A few photos showing my newly painted brake calipers -

That looks great, I need to do the same this spring, mine are horribly rusty form all the road-salt we get in winter.
Did you take the calipers off to paint them or leave them in place and mask off the struts, etc... ?
 

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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
That looks great, I need to do the same this spring, mine are horribly rusty form all the road-salt we get in winter.
Did you take the calipers off to paint them or leave them in place and mask off the struts, etc... ?
It was part of a "brake job" that entailed new rotors and pads. The calipers were unbolted but not disconnected from the brake lines, and the pads removed. The product I used to coat the calipers was brush-on, so it was no big deal. BTW, the G-2 brake coating has held up well through a salty New England winter so I can certainly recommend the product.
 

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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Auxillary lighting installed as follows:

Hella Rallye Compact 4000 Driving Lights

Lights mounted on FXTSPORTS08 Custom Light Bar behind grille.

Hella 148541001 heavy-duty harness used.

Hella Shieldz smoke lens film to protect lights.

Narva H1 100 watt 12V bulbs.

Factory fog light switch modified to engergize on both high/low beams - link

Additional relay installed to operate driving lights with high beams only - link

Factory harness to OEM fog light wired through additional high beam relay to coil of the driving light relay in the Hella harness. This way, a minimal load is being placed on the factory wiring/fog light relay. With fog light switch turned on, driving lights come on only with high beams.




 

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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Installed the following items today:

1. Samco turbo inlet and afterMAF hose
2. Grimmpseed AOS
3. Perrin BOV hose
4. PTP turbo blanket

I'm glad I replaced the stock turbo inlet because the inlet connection to the turbo was not so great. I didn't want to over tighten the clamp on the stock inlet for fear of damaging it and as a result, I'm not sure the clamp was tight enough to make a leak-proof seal.

The stock turbo inlet came right out, with the help of a large pair of channel locks and a hacksaw blade.

The biggest surprise was once I had the inlet out, there was a pile of old acorns under the intake manifold. I guess the local chipmunks had been partying there this past winter.

The Samco inlet went in without much of a fuss and lined up perfectly with the turbo and other hoses. I did not have to remove the IM or any other items to squeeze the Samco inlet into place. The afterMAF hose required some trimming to get a perfect fit.

In the photo below, you can just see the PTP turbo blanket, which was easy to get on with the Perrin TMIC and SPT heat shield out of the way. Also, the Grimmspeed AOS was easy to install with the TMIC and heat shield out of the way too. I like how the stock engine cover hides all of the extra hoses and maintains a neat appearance.

The car runs well with no unusual noises are CELs. I'll be getting back on the dyno soon to get my tune tweaked for these latest mods.













 

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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
A few more mods today...

I installed a set of Subtle hood struts and a Subtle radiator shroud. The struts are a nice addition and work well. The shroud dresses up the front of the engine bay nicely.

I also installed a set of Kartboy exhaust hangers as my stockers were getting a bit stretched and were allowing the exhaust to move around a more than I cared for. Three of them on the axleback took care of the problem.

Finally, after debating about spending so much, I orderd a set of Lloyd Luxe carpet mats in black for the front and their Luxe carpet cargo mat for the rear. These mats are pricey but let me tell you, they are superb! They are cut perfectly, thick, heavy and have a nice rubber backing that keeps them from moving around. The cargo mat could not fit any better and deadens road noise as well. The front mats cover more area than the stock mats, and the passenger side mat goes all of the way up to the top of the carpet under the dash. I purchased mine at Auto Parts & Auto Accessories - Over 6 Million Auto Parts, Aftermarket Parts, Truck Accessories & Car Accessories.







 

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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Update 4/11

Installed an AEM CAI this past week - model 21-477C for the '05 - '07 WRX/Sti. It fit the FXT perfectly, and mated up to the Samco turbo inlet perfectly as well.

The install was very easy, the 2-piece design making it so. I like the fact that AEM use a rubber elbow through the fender hole which eliminates any possibility of rattling or other noise. The second piece in the fender has a bracket which bolts up to the nut exposed under the fender liner that holds the ABS in place. This makes the end of the cai very secure.

The AEM filter is a dry type that does not require any oiling. With the FXT Sports bumper, the air filter sites low and directly behind the small side grille in the bumper. This is great for pulling in cold outside air, not so great for being exposed to water when it's raining.

I decided the best bet was to place a baffle/splash shield between the filter and the grille in the bumper. I didn't want to lose the cold air flow through the grille, but I certainly wanted to protect the filter from getting wet every time I drive in the rain.

After spending some time laying under the car and trying a few ideas, I settled on making a baffle from my favorite VIP Auto Parts car wash bucket. I took a hacksaw to it and cut a section out of the bucket to form the baffle. I drilled a few small holes through the baffle and zip-tied it to the actual grille. A little ghetto but a test with the hose proved it protects the air filter, while still allowing air to flow in. You can see the "splash shield mod" in the last photo below.

I also re-routed the small coolant lines under the CAI and secured them out of the way.

Overall, I'm glad I did this mod. With a 3-inch TB exhaust, the extra noise is hardly noticeable.





 

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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Update to the CAI install post above -

After driving in heavy rain, a considerable amount of water still makes it way through past the splash shield. Since the area under the fender liner has plenty of other space to pull air through, I decided to close off the grille entirely. I used an old rubber cargo mat to fabricate a "backing" for the grille. You have to look real close to see it and it does help keep the CAI filter dry. I have also added the AEM "dry flow pre-filter" for added protection.
 

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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
How fast will it go?

Doing all of these "power mods" left me wondering how much of an effect they would have. Dyno graphs are one thing, but an actual measure of performance really tells the story. So, I decided to visit a local dragstrip to see what the Foz can do.

The local track, New England Dragway, requires a "Snell 95" helmet for any car faster that 14 seconds. So before my track visit I stop at a motorcycle shop and pick up a helmet for $69. It's not the Snell rating, but DOT. Considering the use, I figured it would pass muster.

The temperature was in the low 70s with moderate humidity. During the tech inspection, I'm asked how fast the car is. I just shrug and say that this is the first time I'm tracking the car, but in case it is faster than 14 seconds, I have a helmet. He takes a look at the helmet and tells me since it has no Snell rating, it's not acceptable!

"Just don't go faster than 14 seconds" is the statement by the inspector.

The track is pretty crowded (notice I'm #289) -



Not only that, but I ended up waiting almost an hour because the track crew had to clean up a blown transmission. So while we're all waiting, I knew I would only get one sub-14 second pass. I decided that if I launched badly, I would dog it the rest of the way and make sure I didn't go faster than 14 seconds and take another run. But as the wait grew longer and longer, and the line of cars grew behind me, I figured I might not get another run in if someone else pukes their tranny/engine/rear end on the track again. So with my turn coming up, I decided it would have to be just one run.

I lined up with a Mustang (you can see it in the photo above to the left), I'm in the left lane. I get staged and gradually start to bring up the RPMs while power braking. But, the tree sequences faster than I was adding RPMs and not wanting to let the Mustang off without a good run, I go on the green - and bog off the line. I probably was only at about 2000 RPMs when I "launched" (if you want to call it that). Pedal to the metal, the VF48 spools up within a second and now I'm blasting down the track gaining on the Mustang. I pass the Mustang and as I cross the 1/4 mile marker, I note that my speedo indicates about 105 MPH.

And here is the result (#289, left lane) -



With a geriatric launch and a 60' time of nearly 2.2 seconds, I still mange to hit 13.422 at 104.4 MPH on my only run of the night.

So, I'm thinking that in its present state of tune, with a good launch that the car has 12s in it. I think 12s will be pretty easy next time with the Aquamist system installed. I will also exchange the helmet for something they will accept so the next time I go, I can take more than one pass!

I expect to go back to the track in June, with the water/meth injection system installed and re-tuned.
 

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2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
HFS-3 Install #1

I am in the process of installing an Aquamist HFS3 water/methanol injection system. This is the first of mulitple posts documenting the installation.

The installation is going to include the following items;

1 - Aquamist HFS3 kit

1 - Aquamist 806-280 Water Level Sensor Kit

1 - MadDad Ultra Basic Series 52mm Boost Gauge

1 - Subtle Forester - Ashtray Gauge Bezel

I am using the stock windshield washer reservior and will inject -20 degree F. washer fluid. I am using AutoZone -20 fluid, which is 32% methanol/68% water.

Today I installed the gauges in the Subtle bezel and then installed the cluster in the console. The gauges are not yet connected - that will be the last step when I install the main Aquamist controller in the glove box. The photos below show the cluster installed. The LED holder between the gauges will connect to the 806-280 secondary water level sensor, which will be installed about 2/3 of the way down in the washer reservior to give advance warning of when the level is getting low (before the primary float level switch is reached and activates the Aquamist failsafe that drops boost to wastegate level).

The next planned step is to remove the front bumper and (1) install the float level and pump inlet hardware in the reservior; (2) mount the pump next to the reservior; (3) install the FAV (Fast Acting Valve) and (4) install the tubing from the reservior to the pump and from the pump to the FAV. Hopefully I will do that next weekend.

Photos of the gauge cluster installed;




 
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