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1998 Forester
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Discussion Starter #1
I own a '98 Forester and live in NY but I'm at school in CT and anyone who lives in the state must surely know the irrational fondness of its residents for speed bumps. I don't hit them at unreasonable speeds, but this is the third repair needed due to those damn things. My rear hatch lock is broken, it won't lock via remote, central locking, or key and was certainly caused by one of the many speed bumps in my area. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with a similar problem and is it something I can fix myself or do I need to bring it to a mechanic or dealer?
 

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2008 LL Bean (4EAT)
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I own a '98 Forester... speed bumps... this is the third repair needed due to those damn things. My rear hatch lock is broken, it won't lock via remote, central locking, or key and was certainly caused by one of the many speed bumps in my area...
If you believe that, I would slow down or avoid speed bumps altogether.
On the other hand, if you doubt that a bump should be able to break a rear hatch lock, I would seek a better repair, perhaps a replacement.

Who is doing your lock repair, and what are they doing to it?
If they are just getting the lock working again, and if the mechanism is worn or broken, maybe no amount of adjustment will keep it working.
 

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1998 Forester
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Discussion Starter #4
If you believe that, I would slow down or avoid speed bumps altogether.
I hit them like I'm a 79 year-old woman and I try to avoid them where possible, but around here they're everywhere (even in the middle of regular roads). The car is just old, its got 220k on it and needs to be treated a little more gently than these roads allow.
 

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1999 Forester
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5 Posts
1999 Forester rear hath fixed

I just fixed the problem with the rear hatch. Would not lock with key or remote.
Took off interior panel
Disconnected the two connecting rods connected to the latch. The big diameter one pry's right out with a screw driver and will snap right back in on reinstall
The smaller diameter connecting rod, you must gently swing the plastic connect away from the rod, it will then pull right out.
Then loosen and remove the two bolts holding the latch to the hatch. Pull out hatch. Remove wire connector.
Then you will need to spay wd-40 along the spring with two 1 inch arms, you will see one of the spring arms that is supposed to move the latch shut. keep moving back and forth until it moves freely. Clean and grease.
 
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