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2014 Forester 2.5i CVT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With my 2014 Forester I've been doing all the maintainence myself for the first time. I'm now coming up on the 30K milestone and so it is time to change the brake fluid and I need some help.

First, I want to confirm the order for the bleed on the 2014 NA model. I believe it is now RR, LR, RF, LF. I don't have the FSM so if someone can confirm that would be great.

Second, I plan to do a one man gravity bleed style fluid change. What I mean by that is that I'll use the turkey baster to get the master cylinder to have some clean fluid in it. Then I'll attach a tube to the bleed valve on the RR with the tube going down into a plastic bottle with some old brake fliud in it. Then I'll open the valve and gently step on the break pedal to get it started. From what I understand that ought to be enough to get the old fluid to flow out over the course of 20 minutes or so and won't introduce air into the system.

If I'm willing to spend the time to do that slow method does anyone see any problems with it?

Thanks - Richard
 

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2017 VW GTI Sport
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319 Posts
First, I want to confirm the order for the bleed on the 2014 NA model. I believe it is now RR, LR, RF, LF. I don't have the FSM so if someone can confirm that would be great.
Haven't done it, but the service manual just says:

NOTE: Perform air bleed starting in the order from the farthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder assembly.
Since the master cylinder is on the driver/left side, your order sounds correct...
 

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2012 Forester X set and forget
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276 Posts
With my 2014 Forester I've been doing all the maintainence myself for the first time. I'm now coming up on the 30K milestone and so it is time to change the brake fluid and I need some help.

First, I want to confirm the order for the bleed on the 2014 NA model. I believe it is now RR, LR, RF, LF. I don't have the FSM so if someone can confirm that would be great.

Second, I plan to do a one man gravity bleed style fluid change. What I mean by that is that I'll use the turkey baster to get the master cylinder to have some clean fluid in it. Then I'll attach a tube to the bleed valve on the RR with the tube going down into a plastic bottle with some old brake fliud in it. Then I'll open the valve and gently step on the break pedal to get it started. From what I understand that ought to be enough to get the old fluid to flow out over the course of 20 minutes or so and won't introduce air into the system.

If I'm willing to spend the time to do that slow method does anyone see any problems with it?

Thanks - Richard
You'll be good with your order and method, just keep that new fluid topped off when draining...
 

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2011 2.5X Premium PZEV 4EAT
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1,072 Posts
Hats off to you, Richardtruely, for your DIY maintenance. Wish I could still do the same, but had to gave up on DIY bleeding brakes awhile back. Now have the brakes bled, along with driveline fluids, by a reliable local mech. Mostly because they can do a much better and quicker job due to having a proper lift. Plus, in spite of my incredibly careful planning, I always had an incredibly messy garage to clean up. Local mech cost is under $100, if I combine the jobs.
 
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