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2010 2.5X Touring 4AT
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Lookin good Bobby!

I've been waiting forever it seems for Subaru to release the Diesel Foz in Canada. At the moment it looks like that may never happen thanks to the California Air Nazis.

I've been very happy with my SX4 so far, but now that I've added a Boxer puppy to the family, we need more room. I'm in the market for a good used 09/10 Foz.

Then the family, as well as my vehicle, can be powered by a Boxer :)
 

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07 Forester XT Limited
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211 Posts
tooks me almost 4 days to go threw every page in your journal. Awesome car, never knew there were so many FXT owners so close.
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #1,423 · (Edited)
Thanks for taking the time to look over my Member Journal! :cool:

Major power MODding is on the to-do list this Summer... if the rains ever stop! I'm going to guess it will instantly change to Summer weather, once the Portland Rose Festival is over! :wink:

Once I get the MODs installed, here's be many more write ups I'll need to add to my Member Journal. :icon_eek:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #1,424 ·
Lookin good Bobby!

I've been waiting forever it seems for Subaru to release the Diesel Foz in Canada. At the moment it looks like that may never happen thanks to the California Air Nazis.

I've been very happy with my SX4 so far, but now that I've added a Boxer puppy to the family, we need more room. I'm in the market for a good used 09/10 Foz.

Then the family, as well as my vehicle, can be powered by a Boxer :)
Byron,

Good to see you on the forum again & good to hear you've had good luck with the Suzuki SX4! :cool:

As to a preowned Forester. I personally prefer the earlier SG ('03-'08) over the SH ('09+) & they'll cost you less. :wink:

As to a diesel Forester. I'm going to guess you'll get them up in Canada long before we get them in the States. :frown:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #1,425 · (Edited)
HD radio display panel relocation - Part 1

In Part 1 I'll gives an overview of the previously installed Directed Electronics HD Radio (DMHD-1000), the cutting of the display panel cable & the installation of the Molex .062 wire connectors to hook it back together. :icon_eek:

As part of my power MODding project this summer I'm adding an Innovate Motorsports DB Air/Fuel gauge & a Nordskog oil temperature gauge, which will be used to monitor the 4EAT ATF temperature. These will be mounted on a Subtle Solutions ashtray gauge bezel. You can view that project write up, starting here. This required moving the HD radio display panel from that location. Not wanting to "reinvent the wheel", I decided to place the HD radio display panel in the overhead console, as I did in my son's '03 X. :cool:

Bobby…

These pictures show how & where the HD radio display panel was originally installed. I have to admit I always felt it was a waste to use that prime location for the HD radio display panel.

The upper picture shows the Directed Electronics HD radio (DMHD-1000), the wired display panel & the main unit or the commander module. The remote control isn't pictured. The right picture shows the pinouts for the mini DIN cable plug. This cable isn't shielded, making this MOD easier & doable. The cable has 8 wires & a ground (bare) wire. Only 6 of the wires are used, plus the ground wire.

The upper picture shows the display panel with the attached cable. The lower picture shows the cable being cut at 18".

You may be wondering why I'm cutting the cable? If the cable wasn't cut, the hole required to install the display panel in the overhead console would be over 1/2"! By cutting the cable, the hole required is 3/16", which makes for a much neater looking installation. In addition, running the cable between the roof & the headliner is much easier without the plug.

The upper picture shows the cut cable being prepared for the Molex .062 crimp on connectors. The lower picture shows the Molex connectors being installed. I should note that wires are 26 gauge, or smaller, so I had to add some clear plastic tubing to get a proper insulation crimp.

The upper picture shows the Molex connectors being installed into the housings. The lower picture shows the completed cable.

In Part 2 I'll complete this project & give you a "sneak peek" of the newly installed Subtle Solutions ashtray gauge bezel with the Innovate Motorsports DB Air/Fuel gauge & a Nordskog oil temperature gauge, which will be used to monitor the 4EAT ATF temperature. :wink:

Related post:
The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,426 · (Edited)
HD radio display panel relocation - Part 2

Part 2 will complete the HD radio display panel relocation to the overhead console. In addition, I'll include a "sneak peek" of the newly installed Subtle Solutions ashtray gauge bezel with the Innovate Motorsports DB Air/Fuel gauge & a Nordskog oil temperature gauge, which will be used to monitor the 4EAT ATF temperature. :wink:

Bobby…

The upper picture shows the overhead console as Subaru calls it. The lower picture shows the removed overhead console. The removal is very easy, which only requires 3 screws to be remove. 2 screws are behind the clear map light cover & one is located in the smaller compartment.

The upper picture shows the overhead console frame with the storage module removed. The lower picture shows the selected compartment removed so the HD radio display panel can be installed.

The upper pictures shows the HD radio display panel being positioned for fit into the overhead console glasses compartment. The lower picture shows the raised foam lip being trimmed flat so the HD radio display panel will fit over it.

The upper picture shows double sided foam tape being installed onto the back of the HD radio display panel. The lower picture shows the HD radio display panel installed in the overhead console. As I mentioned earlier, a 3/16" hole was drilled so the cable can be routed out of the overhead console.

The upper picture shows the overhead console being reinstalled. I left enough cable slack so the overhead console could rest on the dash top when it's removed. If the cable is left short, when the overhead console is removed, it will have to hang by the cable, which could place stress on the HD display panel. The lower picture shows the HD radio display cable routed to the left into the headliner opening.

The upper picture shows where the cable exits at the A-pillar. Note that the rubber trim has been pulled away so the cable can be inserted into the crevice. The lower picture shows the cable being tucked into the crevice.

These picture shows how the cable is routed & the rubber trim is reinstalled. Of course this end of the HD radio display panel cable has to be fitted with Molex connectors so it can be connected to the cable that was prepared in Part 1 of this write up. Not overly difficult, other than having to do the work in the vehicle. :icon_eek:

Here's the HD radio display panel installed & operating. Note that the compartment can be closed to hide the display.

Lastly, the "sneak peek"! This is reason the HD radio display panel had to be relocated. Other than installing & wiring the sensors to gauges... a bit more difficult than it sounds, the Innovate Motorsports DB Air/Fuel gauge & the Nordskog oil temperature gauge to monitor the ATF temperature are ready to go! :biggrin:

Related post:
The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #1,428 ·
Brian,

The MODding will never end, but things like house repairs have a higher priority. :icon_eek: It may be late summer before I get to the power MODding. :frown:

On the positive side. I have all the parts, so it's just a matter of time before I get them installed! :cool:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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2007 FSTI and X 6 MT
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22,252 Posts
Brian,

The MODding will never end, but things like house repairs have a higher priority. :icon_eek: It may be late summer before I get to the power MODding. :frown:

On the positive side. I have all the parts, so it's just a matter of time before I get them installed! :cool:

Bobby...

I hear you man. We did a carpet and paint job right before the Tail of the Dragon trip and now after Im doing all of my suspension and wheels:biggrin:

I did get your email and I have to pass. I need something more custom as the angle the bracket sits at will not work for my plans.
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #1,431 ·
Brian,

I'm ordering up cedar bevel siding for our South side residing project. In addition, we're replacing 4 windows. You think vehicle MODding is expensive, home remodeling makes that seem like pocket change! :icon_eek:

As to the Subtle Solutions ashtray gauge bezel.
I thought about keeping it for a spare, but I'm trying to cut back on my "hoarding"! :wink:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,433 · (Edited)
Father's Day 2011!



My Father's Day card is above & my new Kartboy battery tie down is below! Today has been a very good day! :smile:


The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,434 · (Edited)
Cargo hatch striker replacement.

If you've been following my Member Journal, you know my Forester was preowned, so some repairs were needed. Most of these repairs have been cosmetic, so I deal with them when they begin to bother me. This was starting to bug me! :mad:

I'm sure many of you would say this isn't worth bothering with, but it bugged me every time I'd see it... which is every time I opened the cargo hatch. To make it worse, it was "rust" & that's one thing I have a very low tolerance for, so it had to be addressed!

I purchased the part from my favorite parts supplier, Jackie (SubaruPartsGirl), a supporting vendor here on the forum. Her direct number at Annapolis Subaru is (866) 509-3019.

Subaru part:
  • STRIKER R G - 63264SA010 - $9.50/USD
The only tool required is a 1/4" ratchet, short extension & a 12 mm socket. I prefer using the lightest tool that will work. I find this prevents me from over tightening. :wink:

Bobby...

Here's what the cargo hatch striker looks like with the rear skirt trim panel, as Subaru calls it, removed. Note the rusting on the striker! Nothing that would cause a failure, but it looks "bad" & it's visible whenever the cargo hatch is opened. I should mention that I replaced the rear skirt trim panel previously. It was in sorry shape, as you can see on my write up here. :icon_eek:

The lower picture shows the new hatch striker. The lower picture shows what I found when I removed the old striker... "sand"! Not completely unexpected, since my Forester started its life in California... near the beach. I'm going to guess this area would be the perfect spot to sit after going for a swim. Salt water on metal = rusting! :frown:

The upper picture shows the new & old striker. Note that there are 3 locating marks on the striker, which will help position the new striker as the old one was. In addition, I used a red Sharpie to mark the old striker position before I removed it. The lower picture shows the newly installed cargo hatch striker ready for the rear skirt trim panel to be reinstalled. Much better & another item checked off my "to-do" list! :smile:

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,435 ·
AT indicator assembly replacement.

Continuing on my quest to make my Forester as it was when it was new, this write up details the replacement of the scratched up AT shifter indicator assembly. As I noted on my previous posts, my Forester was a preused vehicle… to my surprise, it was also a leased vehicle! I didn't know this until I purchased the Forester & I received the title. This explained why there was so many cosmetic issues that needed to be addressed.

I purchased the part from my favorite parts supplier, Jackie (SubaruPartsGirl), a supporting vendor here on the forum. Her direct number at Annapolis Subaru is (866) 509-3019.

Subaru part:
  • INDICATOR AY - 35180SA030 - $47/USD
On the expensive side, but it looks so much better without the scratches!

Bobby...

The upper picture shows what comes in the box. The kit comes with a new bulb, holder & wiring. The existing light works perfectly, so I didn't see any reason to replace it. Note that the manual release access cover doesn't come in the kit. I thought this was odd, but not a big deal, since I could reuse the old one, which was in good condition. The lower picture shows how to remove shifter trim surround. No tools are required, just pull up the small end with your fingers, it will swing up & out. The shifter knob unscrews (lots of turns!) to remove. When reattaching, the knob never stops turning, so stop when it's tight & positioned as you want it. There will be wire connectors to unplug to completely remove the AT shifter indicator assembly.

The upper picture shows the AT indicator assembly removed. The shifter knob will have to be removed first, but it simply unscrews (lots of turns). I was surprised the AT indicator assembly pulled off easily without having to release anything? The wires to the bulb holder needs to be released from the wire retaining clip or it will prevent the AT indicator assembly from pulling up far enough to release the bulb holder (slight twist). The lower picture shows the AT shifter with the covering removed. This is a good time to clean around this area.

The upper pictures shows the new AT indicator assemble being reinstalled. The assembly needs to be turned so the bulb holder can be reinstalled. Once that done, the bulb wiring is replaced into the retainer as the AT indicator is snapped into position. The lower picture shows the new AT indicator assembly ready for the shifter trim surround to be reinstalled.

For those that need to replace the AT indicator light bulb, you can use:
  • GE 37, 1.26 watts, 14 volts
  • Sylvania 37LL, 1.26 watts, 14 volts
The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #124)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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Discussion Starter · #1,437 ·
Thanks Brian. :smile:

I can't start the power MODding until the summer house projects are done, so I figure I'd knock off some of the quickie projects on my "to-do" list. :wink:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,438 · (Edited)
Kartboy battery tie down installation.

My Father's Day gift is installed! :biggrin:

Bobby...

The Kartboy battery tie down (KB-BATT) requires some assembly... the inserts need to be installed. I suppose you could leave them off for the "debadged" look. :icon_eek:

The Kartboy battery tie down is made of aluminum with a black anodized finish. I wanted to provide some protection from the battery acid (no direct contact with the top of the battery), so I decided to use some textured PVC non-slip tape that I happen to have on hand. The upper picture shows the textured PVC non-slip tape being cut to size. The lower picture shows the textured PVC non-slip tape installed onto the Kartboy battery tie down.

The installation is very easy, requiring only a 10 mm wrench or deep socket. I added stainless steel washers (sharp side up) under the nuts to prevent the nuts from scratching the black anodized finish.
The upper picture shows the stock battery tie down. The lower picture shows the Kartboy battery tie down installed.


Battery water level checking & adding distilled water.​

If you're going to do this, be aware that the battery contains sulfuric acid, so appropriate safety precautions should be used, as in eye protection, gloves & old clothing. Distilled water must be used, or the battery may be damaged.

While I was installing the new battery tie down, I decided to check the battery water level. My label (I label everything!) said I'd checked it last in '09, two years ago. To my surprise, the water level was low, 1/8" to nearly 1/4" low in all the cells! I added distilled water to bring the level up to the bottom of inspection hole extension, which you'll see when you look into the battery with a flashlight. Don't over fill, or the battery water will expand out of the battery cap, which is also a breather & isn't sealed. Any escaping water will also contain sulfuric acid, not a good thing! :icon_eek:

It appears the water level will drop around 1/8" per year. I'm going to guess if the battery wasn't checked in 4 years, the top of the cell would be dry, causing a drop in battery performance, which most likely will be permanent! Hmmm... perhaps this is why batteries tend to die around that time? :confused:

I'll have to add checking the battery water level to my check yearly routine. :wink:

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,439 · (Edited)
Changed to a full synthetic engine oil & a larger (taller) oil filter!

I changed the engine oil & oil filter in my '07 FSXT today, with the miles at just a bit over 24K miles. I've been using Valvoline MaxLife 5W-30 synthetic blend for years. After some research, I decided it would be beneficial to use a full synthetic engine oil especially with the turbo. :cool:

So far the only downside to switching to a full synthetic engine oil is the cost & the odd smell of the full synthetic engine oil! :icon_eek:

I know many members prefill the oil filter with oil. I've never done that in the past, but I thought I'd give it a try today. To my surprise, the WIX 51356 took a good quantity of oil. Of course you don't want to drop the filter when it's filled with oil! I did notice the oil pressure came up faster with the oil filter being prefilled. I may consider doing this from now on. :wink:

Bobby...

Valvoline has always been my engine oil of choice since I was a kid, so I'm staying with Valvoline, just switching to the full synthetic version. The pictures below show the Valvoline MaxLife synthetic blend & the SYNpower full synthetic I switched to today. We switched the '03 X to Valvoline SYNpower full synthetic last month (June/11). We will continue to use Valvoline MaxLife 5W-30 synthetic blend in our '95 Neon Sport.



► Update ◄​
WIX has changed the recommended oil filter from the 51356 to 57712, which meets the Subaru by-pass valve setting of 23 psi. I'm going to switch filters on my next oil change.


My thoughts on the oil filter 23 psi by-pass pressure, which seems to be a concern to many members. If you have an oil pressure gauge installed on your Forester, you'd know your oil filter will be in by-pass mode almost all the time. The exception would be when the engine oil is hot & the engine is idling. :icon_eek:

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 

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Bobby's WRB '07 FSXT Member Journal - 2 year anniversary!

To mark the 2 year milestone of my Member Journal, I decided a screen snapshot was in order! :cool:

To all the forum members & guests that took the time to look over my Member Journal, especially those members that added to my Member Journal. "Thank You"! :biggrin:

Bobby...
July 2, 2009 - July 2, 2011
(11:35 AM)

145,282 Views!


The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
 
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