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09 Forester
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, the old girl took a beating this weekend. Took it up a road I shouldn't have and took a pretty big hit in a rock garden. Slipped into a rut i was trying to stay on top of. Felt like i might have tweaked the front right wheel and hit something underneath. Got it out of it and parked it and walked the rest of the way, but the damage was done.

There was a pretty nasty grinding sound when it rolled and a new exhaust leak. Upon closer inspection when we got it back on flat ground, it looks like the intermediate exhaust pipe/resonator got hit hard and bent the heat shield up into the driveshaft, which was causing most of the superficial grinding sound. I took it off and the car sounds fine now other than the minor exhaust leak. I'm not too worried about that. I can handle exhaust fixes.

The more concerning thing is that there seems to be a binding/shuddering feeling when accelerating the car out of tight turns from a stop. I perceive it to be coming from the middle center of the car, almost right under the middle console. In retrospect, I also remember the rubbing sound getting worse and more inconsistent when turning when I still had that exhaust guard on and rubbing. I do not remember it doing this before the incident.

What kind of stuff could I have broken by crunching the exhaust/driveshaft that would cause that? Could have also tweaked the front right wheel like i said, but everything looks relatively straight up there.

Pic attached. You can see that I hit hard enough to pull that thin heatshield right off the bolt that was holding it.

 

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2007 Forester 2.5x 5 speed manual
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Having fun werent we!

The shuddering/binding wjen accelerating from a sharp turn could be torque bind. Bad fluid, a duty c solenoid, or worn clutchpack in the center diff are to blame.

Try this:
Drive in tight (full lock) circles left and right. Usually if its torque bind one will feel the juttering you seem to describe.

Its odd this would manifest only now, but its possible (likely?) you burned up the clutch pack or scorched the tranny fluid while wheeling. I see this problem on Subarus when the owner engages the AWD frequently because of wheeling or driving on ice.

Shoulda asked this first:

Mileage and Auto or manual? If its a manual disregard what I said about the center diff.
 

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2015 Forester 2.5i Premium 6-speed manual
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I would simply check the driveshaft center support bearing for damage and the driveshaft itself for excessive run out. On my 2010 Forester maximum run out allowed is 0.6 mm (0.024 in.) at the center of the driveshaft. This I understand is the center of the driveshaft between the center bearing and the driveshaft mounting flange on the rear differential.

If the driveshaft survived and is still within spec., look for other damage to the transmission, mounts, brackets etc.
 

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09 Forester
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry, I am not a mechanic at all, but I try to learn fast!

What does the term run-out mean exactly regarding a driveshaft? Is it "straightness" essentially? Best way to check this would be to get it spinning and simply take a look and see if it looks wonky?

I plan to get it up on stands this evening and give it a shakedown and investigate all the mounts/joints to the best of my ability(which is not much) and see what I can see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Red07

was having fun till i broke it! lol.

Its at about 135K and it is a manual...possibly original clutch. Ive only had it for 35k miles. I'll drive it in some circles at lunch and see how that goes.

I'm actually starting to wonder if it is clutch related, last night and today I started to notice an additional spinny/buzzy sound that happens for just a second after i push in the clutch while switching gears. Sounds like what a bad throwout bearing might sound like maybe? Hell I dunno.

And the more i drive it, the more i realize that the shuddering/grinding thing are not really related to turning. Its torque related. It happens most noticeably when starting on hills, or starting with the wheel turned, and only happens for a second once I let the clutch up fully.
 

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2015 Forester 2.5i Premium 6-speed manual
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Sorry, I am not a mechanic at all, but I try to learn fast!

What does the term run-out mean exactly regarding a driveshaft? Is it "straightness" essentially? Best way to check this would be to get it spinning and simply take a look and see if it looks wonky?

I plan to get it up on stands this evening and give it a shakedown and investigate all the mounts/joints to the best of my ability(which is not much) and see what I can see.
In a sense, yes. The Driveshaft is a hollow tube and think of its cross section as a thin wall pipe or tube. Next, think of the cross section as a circle spinning around its exact center like a 33 1/3 RPM record on a turntable. The circle should not wobble laterally from the center as it spins around its axis or center. Pick any point on the circle and the radius should not vary as it spins around the central axis of the circle, if it does, that is the run out. If your bicycle tire and wheel had excessive run out you would bob up and down as you rode your bike. That is what run out is. The driveshaft should spin in a perfect circle not an elliptical orbit, if you will. The run out limit , or tolerance for my Forester's driveshaft from a perfect circle is 0.6 mm.

If you see any wobble with your Mk1 eyeball, then your center bearing is damaged and /or the driveshaft is most likely bent. They are like those from VW/Audi, they are considered non-rebuildable.


It is as simple as these videos show:






And yes, you make also have a noisy throwout bearing too. It may have been that way for a while, but as you are paying close attention post mishap, you now notice it more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you sir, i'll check it out. And yes... very good chance the throwout bearing has been complaining for a while but now i'm paying attention.
 

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2007 Forester 2.5x 5 speed manual
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Yeah if its a manual id go with the driveshaft runout/throwout bearing siggestions The manuals have dont have the same torque bind issues.

I would think if the driveshaft was bent (even slightly) you would really notice at highway speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Yeah I don't think it's torque bind. I drove it around in circles and it seemed fine.

The more I drive it the more I'm able to pinpoint the shudder. It's got nothing to do with turning, I think it's torque or speed based. I can really only notice it when starting in first, maybe barely in second. It only happens for a second at around 6-8 mph. It's worse on hills, or when turning, when torque is high.

As for underneath, I lifted it up and wiggled all the wheel and spun the drivetrain and really didn't notice anything too wierd. The only thing is the driveline carrier bearing might be a bit smooshed, but I don't know if it was round to begin with. I'll attach a pic.

There's a little bit of play between the diffs and the driveline also, dunno how much of that is normal either.

I might notice just a little extra vibration at high speeds because I noticed a new rythmic squeak in the passenger side dash, bit it's pretty minor and I might be making it up.

The tranny mount is solid and unbroken.

I guess at this point my best guess is a clutch issue, or that driveline bearing is causing problems.

Any guesses or insight would be appreciated!

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Car DUMPING fluid after drive-line replacement.

Well, I'm sure a couple people will regognixe me from my other thread... I messed up my driveline fourwheeling, then posted that it was fixed last night. I fixed one problem and created another.

The eBay drive-line that i got was not packed well, and the housing on the end that goes into the tranny was bent. I managed to get it straightened out enough so that it went on, but I shouldn't have.

I drove it for 15 min or so last night and didn't notice anything amiss. This morning on my way to work i think i noticed a slight scraping sound, probably where that housing was rubbing. Then i noticed a smell, then i realized i was trailing a cloud of white smoke. I had only got about 2 miles from my house down a long fast hill. I turned it around and made it home and called into work.

Got it back up on stands and investigated. It was a huge mess. Soaked with fluid all the way back to the rear diff. I yanked the driveline out again... only took me about 20 mins this time!

There are some shavings inside the housing where it was rubbing on something, and the Oil seal came out with the driveshaft. I know i need to at least change the driveshaft and seal again. What are the chances i messed something else up in there bad?

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You can mark this solved again. I got yet another used driveline and got it put in along the a new oil seal between driveline and tranny(806735210) and a quart of Subaru 75w90 to replace what was lost.

Seems relatively leak free and drives smooth again.

Clutch job is next on the list.
 
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