I'm getting bad brake judder along with steering wheel shake at high speed>60mph. I have 4/2 pot brake setup,Powerslot cryo front and reg. Powerslot rear. HPS pads. I have 2 track days on this setup. Do I need to have these rotors Turned or maybe Rebed or I heard or people taking steelwool & sandpaper to rotors. Any sugestions welcome. Thanks Jeff
Bad Brake Judder?
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not a brake comment, but what tires are u on? are u still on stock rubber?? cuz i had the same shuddering/shaking of the steering wheel and pretty much whole car and i was told by a family friend mechanic that it was my worn tires, and they were pretty worn too. so i got them replaced with V rated tires, BFG A/S to be exact and the shuddering stopped. and that was the only thing i changed was just the tires, brakes were stock still also.
Find a long, safe, non populated strip of road. Do 15 stops from 60 to about 5 mph, accelerate back to 60 after slowing to 5 mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP, it will burn the pads onto the rotor.
Anyway, do this 15 times in a row. Then drive back to your house, trying not to brake as much as possible... THIS IS COOL DOWN TIME. If possible, park the car directly after you do a cool down drive to let the rotors get to ambient temps.
Your pads and rotors should be perfectly bedded together again.
This is a pad break in procedure provided by a very well known Brake manufacturer.
Anyway, do this 15 times in a row. Then drive back to your house, trying not to brake as much as possible... THIS IS COOL DOWN TIME. If possible, park the car directly after you do a cool down drive to let the rotors get to ambient temps.
Your pads and rotors should be perfectly bedded together again.
This is a pad break in procedure provided by a very well known Brake manufacturer.
Sounds like the rotors are warped. Tire issue can have same feeling, but less common, sounds like text book rotor warpage. One way to help keep this from happening again is to torque the lugs yourself. Shops RARELY torque them. They'll use straight impact or torque sticks and that's just not good enough if you're trying to save your money and make your rotors last.
Reading the subject line, and inferring that you're speaking of issues under braking, my first thought is to, as with the others, re-bed (and for the visually oriented, here's a good video:
Essex - Learning Center - How to Bed-in Brake Pads and Rotors
^ That video has some *really* helpful visuals. Jeff used to work for StopTech - he's known in many of the Subaru community Forums.
But at the same time, you said:
Essex - Learning Center - How to Bed-in Brake Pads and Rotors
^ That video has some *really* helpful visuals. Jeff used to work for StopTech - he's known in many of the Subaru community Forums.
But at the same time, you said:
^ Do you mean that you're getting steering wheel shake, at-speed, without applying the brakes, too?
Your current rotors are slotted? You might want to try switching to blanks the next time you pickup a set. I constantly had issues with uneven deposits and odd pad and rotor wear with slotted rotors. Switched to centric premium blanks and no issues since (and they're less than half the price of slotted rotors while still being coated!) Also braking performance is -increased- with the blanks compared to slotted.
I would try rebedding them first, but make sure you wont have to stand on the brakes after you've heated them up or they'll be worse than before! (I usually try to give at least 5 mins of light driving after rebedding to let them cool off, go somewhere without stoplights!)
When i put new pads in without new rotors, i take a new pad wrapped in sand paper and run it around the old rotors off the car to get as much old pad material off as possible
I would try rebedding them first, but make sure you wont have to stand on the brakes after you've heated them up or they'll be worse than before! (I usually try to give at least 5 mins of light driving after rebedding to let them cool off, go somewhere without stoplights!)
When i put new pads in without new rotors, i take a new pad wrapped in sand paper and run it around the old rotors off the car to get as much old pad material off as possible
Sounds like an old wives' tale to me. One way to keep this from happening is to use the proper pads for your needs.
ummmmmmm ya....no..........kinda, a loose wheel will knock a rotor out of round, which is pretty much the same as a warped rotor,just casued by diff things
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