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2009 Forester
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
just curious... been reading a lot lately (as winter is quickly approaching) about tires, chains and winter driving. Where I live (about 1750 feet in SW Washington State) we got about 40" of snow last year, which was one of the reasons we bought our Forester. (not to plow 40" of snow, but to travel the plowed roads)

I have come across more than one post on more than one board about damage to the AWD system caused by 1 tire spinning faster than the other on either the front or the rear...

This makes no sense to me. I have had RWD, FWD and 4WD cars/trucks and never heard that spinning a tire would cause damage to anything - thats what differentials are for... to CAUSE the tires to turn at different speeds when going around corners.

Can someone explain to me how I am going to damage the AWD system with wheel-spin? I have to believe that I am missing some critical piece of the puzzle here because it just doesnt seem to make sense. Additionally, I thought the Subies were supposed to limit wheel spin by applying that power to the wheels that werent spinning freely, but I need to look into that more and its not really the point of this post.

Thanks for the input.

-Ryan
 

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2009 2.5X EJ253 Manual
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2,830 Posts
If the wheels are forced/dragged into moving independent of the other axle, such as if the car is mistakenly towed by a regular tow truck instead of flatbedded that will damage the AWD system. But spinning in low traction conditions I don't see it happening, with the open differentials on the new Subarus some one wheel peel (per axle) is inevidable if you have VDC switched off. VDC however if active will stop the one wheel peel because it will use the ABS system to brake the spinning wheel.

Subarus are built for snow and low traction conditions. Don't sweat it :Banane35:
 

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2007 Mitsubishi Pajero 5spd Automatic
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3,594 Posts
I think they don't tell the whole story if they got damage as cause of wheelspin.
Normal wheelspin should not do any damage but hey, there are lots of ppl that thinks by spinning enough they get where they want to go. Even if they don't get anywhere. This I imagine will produce alot of heat in the diff and centerdiff etc.
May cause damage after lots and lots of wheelspin in short time.
 

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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,784 Posts
Your driving in a straight line down the road.
Spider gears in differential are not spinning at all.

You turn a corner.
Spider gears in differential are spinning a little bit due to the difference in speed between the inner and outer wheel.

Your stuck with one wheel spinning like mad and the other standing still.
Spider gears in differential are spinning like mad creating friction and heat and wear. (LOTS OF IT)

If you get stuck and have VDC make sure it's turned on.
If no VDC try rocking it back and forth and/or lightly applying the brakes with the gas (helps force torque to the non-spinning wheel).
 

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Premium Member
2009 Outback XT-B 5MT
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10,409 Posts
With Subies a lot of "spinning wheels" cause damage threads come from lifting wheels and sudden traction shocking the drivetrain. Oh, and of course there's the donut kiddies...
And from spinning less than 2 or 4 wheels.

If the fronts are stuck dead, and you floor it spinning only the rears, you WILL damage the center diff (in the MT) or clutch packs (in the MPT), or even the planetary in the VTD cars.

The chance that particular situation will present itself is slim to none.
 

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2004 Forester XT Premium 4EAT
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30,105 Posts
Avoid e-braking to slide around corners, too. Stopping the rears with the e-brake while the fronts are spinning = not good.
 

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2009 2.5X EJ253 Manual
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2,830 Posts
Avoid e-braking to slide around corners, too. Stopping the rears with the e-brake while the fronts are spinning = not good.
In a tech tip bulletin, Subaru advised techs about this practice and what to look for as evidence such as condition of the e-brake shoes, if the e-brake cable is out of adjustment, etc. and emphasized any repairs due to believed such activity are "not a matter for warranty..."
 

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2007 Mitsubishi Pajero 5spd Automatic
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3,594 Posts
^I tried e-braking once, that was the first and last time. It did not sound good at all, and it did not work either but that's something else. 4EAT...
 

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2007 Mitsubishi Pajero 5spd Automatic
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3,594 Posts
Agreed, e-break is useless in the 4EAT, Scandinavian flick works much better!
A version of drifting.....I'm not familier with this Scandinavian flick. Lol
I read it up on wiki.
Origin: from the 60's. I'm too young for that. haha
 

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09 Forester 2.5X
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8 Posts
Damage to AWD

I read about this back when I had a Impreza 2.5RS, the center diff used a viscous fluid, that would heat up when there was a significant difference between the speeds of the F and Rear axles. Too much heat would bake the fluid.
 

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99 UK S-turbo
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8,590 Posts
Which is BS, the fluid doens't 'break' at all...but there you go thats typical interweb 'everyone says it so it must be true'!

I 'ebrake' (or as we more logically call it handbrake!) mine sometimes (5MT) no probs so far, but I only use a quick tweak to kill understeer and to mobilise the rear, not a full on drag it on job.....

Simon
 

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06 Forester
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115 Posts
Which is BS, the fluid doens't 'break' at all...but there you go thats typical interweb 'everyone says it so it must be true'!

I 'ebrake' (or as we more logically call it handbrake!) mine sometimes (5MT) no probs so far, but I only use a quick tweak to kill understeer and to mobilise the rear, not a full on drag it on job.....

Simon
I concur as i use the same quick handbrake at times but scandinavian flick works ever time :biggrin:
I noticed this on my WRX as well but after some excessive fun in the snow the car emmits this weird smell from underneath. It's not from the engine area.
 

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2007 Mitsubishi Pajero 5spd Automatic
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3,594 Posts
^Not that it matters but I don't belive anyone said anything about using the e-brake on a MT. It's the 4EAT that is the problem. :N_poke:
 
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