[flstffxe]

This is nothing more than a consolidated group of info that is taken from multiple sources. FSM, Various posts and forums. Plain OM had a good post on SubaruOutback.org so much of the Credit goes to him.

The secret handshake. This should work for both Phase I and Phase II

1. Warm up the engine
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF
3. Turn the ignition switch ON
4. Start the engine
5. Drive the vehicle at speeds greater than 12 MPH
6. Stop the vehicle
7. Depress the brake pedal and move the gear selector to "1"
8. Turn the ignition switch to OFF
9. Turn the ignition switch to ON
10. Move the gear selector to "2"
11. Move the gear selector to "1"
12. Move the gear selector to "2"
13. Move the gear selector to "3"
14. Move the gear selector to "D"

What does that get you and what does it mean? Well it will get you a series of flashes which you need to count.

At this point the AT Oil Temp light will do one of three things:

1. flash at a two flashes/second rate indicating there are no stored codes (“normal”)
2. flash more rapidly at a 4 flashes/second rate indicating a power supply problem (less likely)
3. flash with long and short flashes which is indicating the stored codes, with the long flashes representing “10”s, and the short flashes “1”s, as illustrated here:

Phase I codes(roughly 1998 and earlier)

• 11 Line pressure duty solenoid. Short or Disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 12 Lockup duty solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 13 2-4 brake timing solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 14 Shift solenoid B. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 15 Shift solenoid A. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 16 2-4 brake duty solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 21 ATF temperature sensor. Short or disconnection in input circuit
• 22 Pressure sensor. Short or disconnection in input circuit
• 23 Engine speed signal. No signal input above 10km/h
• 24 Transfer duty solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 25 Engine torque control signal. Short or disconnection in engine torque control signal circuit
• 31 Throttle sensor. Short or disconnection in input circuit
• 32 Vehicle speed sensor 1. No signal input to speed sensor 1 above 20km/h
• 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2. No signal input to speed Sensor 2 above 20km/h
• 34 Turbine sensor. No signal input in ranges other than N range
• 36 Low clutch timing solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit

Phase II codes(roughly 1999 - 2004)

• 11 Engine speed signal. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit.
• 27 ATF temperature sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit.
• 31 Throttle position sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit.
• 33 Front vehicle speed sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit.
• 36 Torque converter turbine speed sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit.
• 38 Torque control signal. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit.
• 45 Intake manifold pressure signal. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit.
• 71 Shift solenoid 1. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit.
• 72 Shift solenoid 2. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit.
• 73 Low clutch timing solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit.
• 74 2-4 brake timing solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit.
• 75 Line pressure duty solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit.
• 76 2-4 brake duty solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit.
• 77 Lock-up duty solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit.
• 78 SPORT shift solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit.
• 79 Transfer duty solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit.
• 86 VDC communication signal. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit.
• 93 Rear vehicle speed sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit.

 

[Wangta]

Thanks for putting this up. I'm trying to do this but can't seem to get it to work. When you say drive great than 12 mph, how long do I have to do that? A mile? Or for 15 mins on the highway? Or for 2 seconds down the street?

 

[Danielandersen2]

Just a few seconds, just anything over 12mph

 

[pleiad7]

Well this info came in handy today... In the past few weeks we've been having issues with the AT temp light coming on and flashing on longer freeway drives - 30-ish miles or more - with Slynki (MY98, Phase I 4EAT). Did the secret handshake hokey pokey and came up with code 23 (engine speed signal - no signal input above 10km/h). Looked at a few other threads and saw the same code referenced in connection with torque converter lockup failure. This completely makes sense - I've noticed that the the engine turns higher rpms than normal on the freeway even though it is in overdrive, so it appears that somehow the torque converter is not getting a lockup signal. Now my question is, what to troubleshoot? Is this an indication that the speed sensor is bad, or could it be something else? The fluid has been drained and filled once very recently, just a few weeks ago.

 

[Wangta]

Curious - did you read the error with a code reader AND do the secret handshake after? I've never been sure if they both end up doing the same thing - telling you the code of what's wrong or if the secret handshake tells you more detailed information.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pleiad7]

I don't think our code reader even has the capability to read transmission codes. We just did the secret handshake and then the AT light did the series of long and short flashes to indicate the code.

 

[Wangta]

Ah. So the transmission light morse-code like code is a transmission specific code and additional to the cel code.

Please keep us updated on how you resolve this!


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[Wangta]

I can't seem to get the secret handshake to work. Am i doing this wrong? The instructions seem to be a bit vague in some spots. Here is what I am doing:

1. Warm up the engine (Engines warm - i had driven it for about 30 minutes before this)
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF (Went onto side of road - put it in park, turned off car, removed key)
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (Waited 5 seconds, then put key in and turned on ignition so dash lights up)
4. Start the engine (started car)
5. Drive the vehicle at speeds greater than 12 MPH (put car into D and drove for about 30 seconds at 40 mph)
6. Stop the vehicle (Use foot brake, slowed vehicle to stop and pulled off to side of road)
7. Depress the brake pedal and move the gear selector to "1" (I have my foot already on the brake given I had to stop in Step 6 - so I keey my foot on brake and move gear selector to "1")
8. Turn the ignition switch to OFF (Turned ingition off - dash lights all turn off - key won't come out since its not in park. Should I be keeping my foot on the brake still??)
9. Turn the ignition switch to ON (Turned ignition on - dash lights up - my foot is still on the brake, is this correct? If not the car will roll)
10. Move the gear selector to "2" (with foot on brake, move gear selector to "2". Leave it there for <1 second)
11. Move the gear selector to "1" (with foot still on brake, move gear selector to "1". Leave it there for <1 second)
12. Move the gear selector to "2" (with foot still on brake, move gear selector BACK to "2". Leave it there for <1 second)
Move the gear selector to "3" (with foot still on brake, move gear selector to "3". Leave it there for <1 second)
Move the gear selector to "D" (with foot still on brake, move gear selector to "D". Leave it there and look at dash - no blinking AT OIL TEMP light. Its lit up solid instead).

????

 

[pleiad7]

Hmm... I've even had it work by starting over at 8) after messing up the sequence. This was on our '98, though. My guess would be that the '05 with electronic throttle and direct control 4EAT doesn't work this way. You might need a code reader or possibly SSM to pull the code.

 

[Wangta]

I was under the impression this worked on all years. Can anyone confirm this works on a 2005 or later?

Whoops - just read the outback thread. Seems it works til 2004! FML!

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[CrossT]

On my 1998 Forester S, I have no speedometer or odometer as of a couple of days ago and the AT oil temp constantly flashes after driving off. The check engine light also just came on last night. When that happened the car instantly had almost no power and was very rough.

Disconnected my battery for a while and the car runs fine now, but the AT oil temp light will still flash after driving away from a stop.

Did the code procedure above and have code 33, vehicle speed sensor (vss) #2 . I think I saw here somewhere that this is the one on the top of the transmission under the air intake plastic, just ahead of the yellow dipstick (transfer case?) down there.

VSS #1 is on the output side of the trans and is under the car?


Correct?

Thanks

Todd
98 Forester S

 

[Miss14]

Hi so I just tried this on my 2000 Subaru outback it started blinking but it did 2 different ones and I'm not finding the code for them. One is doing 10 long blinks and 4 1s blinks the other is doing 5 long blinks and 5 short blinks so I'm a little confused please help

 

[Cheeto]

I tried this and it did not work. am I doing something wrong. I have a 07 XT.

 

[MolBAsser]

Hmm... I've even had it work by starting over at 8) after messing up the sequence. This was on our '98, though. My guess would be that the '05 with electronic throttle and direct control 4EAT doesn't work this way. You might need a code reader or possibly SSM to pull the code.

I have a 98 outback and it did not work for me. Are you just moving the key to Acc? I tried moving it past Acc, at acc, foot on brake, foot off brake and I can't seem to get it to work. I know this is an ancient thread, I'm just hoping to figure this out.

MolBasser

 

[Jonzimm91]

On my 03 XS my AT Temp Light (ATL) flashes when I 1st start the car. It will continue to flash until I shut the car off and restart it (once warm). I've checked the fluid. Its full and very clean overall. I've flashed the code and get Phase II 93. Im assuming it is probably a rear wheel speed sensor. Any thoughts?

 

[Jonzimm91]

I've fixed it. I decided to check continuity to my sensors. It seemed they were fine. So I tore each side down and gave everything a good cleaning. The magnet on the right rear was littered with junk. After hosing it all down with some brake cleaner, no more code! I figured this might have been the culprit after driving through the river for a bit. That caused it to stop flashing also. But only for a bit. Im still not sure why the rear speed sensors caused the AT Temp Light to flash. Or why it stopped once the car was warm and shut off then restarted. But a good cleaning of the sensors fixed the Phase II code 93.

 

[TrueKaos]

I can't seem to get the secret handshake to work. Am i doing this wrong? The instructions seem to be a bit vague in some spots. Here is what I am doing:

1. Warm up the engine (Engines warm - i had driven it for about 30 minutes before this)
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF (Went onto side of road - put it in park, turned off car, removed key)
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (Waited 5 seconds, then put key in and turned on ignition so dash lights up)
4. Start the engine (started car)
5. Drive the vehicle at speeds greater than 12 MPH (put car into D and drove for about 30 seconds at 40 mph)
6. Stop the vehicle (Use foot brake, slowed vehicle to stop and pulled off to side of road)
7. Depress the brake pedal and move the gear selector to "1" (I have my foot already on the brake given I had to stop in Step 6 - so I keey my foot on brake and move gear selector to "1")
8. Turn the ignition switch to OFF (Turned ingition off - dash lights all turn off - key won't come out since its not in park. Should I be keeping my foot on the brake still??)
9. Turn the ignition switch to ON (Turned ignition on - dash lights up - my foot is still on the brake, is this correct? If not the car will roll)
10. Move the gear selector to "2" (with foot on brake, move gear selector to "2". Leave it there for <1 second)
11. Move the gear selector to "1" (with foot still on brake, move gear selector to "1". Leave it there for <1 second)
12. Move the gear selector to "2" (with foot still on brake, move gear selector BACK to "2". Leave it there for <1 second)
Move the gear selector to "3" (with foot still on brake, move gear selector to "3". Leave it there for <1 second)
Move the gear selector to "D" (with foot still on brake, move gear selector to "D". Leave it there and look at dash - no blinking AT OIL TEMP light. Its lit up solid instead).

????

You are trying this on a 2006? Note the years this is for. 1998 and earlier and phase II 1999 to 2004. Not sure your vehicle will have the hand shake since you now have the diagnostic port and any automated store will download the codes for you.

 

[beezer]

You are trying this on a 2006? Note the years this is for. 1998 and earlier and phase II 1999 to 2004. Not sure your vehicle will have the hand shake since you now have the diagnostic port and any automated store will download the codes for you.

 

[beezer]

Used the "handshake" and it worked perfectly identifying Code 24. Ordered a Transmission Control Solenoid "Duty C" from Parts Geek, installed it in the rear Trans case (bit of work) and the AT oil temp light is off, binding/clunking stopped and all is good. Driven it numerous times, long and short distances and it's fixed!! 1998 Forester 160k miles
THANKS FOR THE "HANDSHAKE"

 

[bridgetroll13]

2001 with auto trans. Swapped the original engine out because head gaskets weren't enough. Replacement engine is a 2003. Used intake from 2001 original motor. Engine started right up but got the flashing trans light right away. Was shifting really high and hard and not going into 4th. Dropped pan and changed fluid, now it seems to start in 2nd and shift really quickly to 3rd and just stay there no matter how high it gets revved. The shifter does not affect if or when it shifts. Figured out how to do the "handshake". Got codes 31 for TPS, 75 for line duty solenoid and 76 for 2-4 brake duty solenoid. I suspect it to be electrical rather than part failure because it worked fine before the swap. Does this site have an archive where can I find a wiring diagram? Is it just the one wire bundle and connector for the trans and the seperate one for the shifter location sensor?