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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,777 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I've been running around with the front sway bar and no rear sway bar.

Decided to do a test.
(this was as far as I could go before leaving rubber on the pavement)










So I disconnected the front sway bar and took it for a ride.
Not as much body roll as I expected,didn't get on the highway but imagine it's quite noticeable there.



Went back up the ramps,what a difference.
(could have went farther,couldn't rock it at all like this)








So that's all fine and good but would it make a difference off road.
Luckily I have a small area to play in right next to my neighborhood.
Theirs a hill there about 20/25 ft high,about 45 deg angle,rutted and off camber.
I could climb it with the front sway but only with some momentum.
Now I crawled up it from a dead stop in 2nd gear with the 4eat lock engaged,no wheel spin whatsoever.

:woohoo:

I made quick disconnects for the rear before I removed it completely,thinking of putting that back on and removing the front.
Anybody done this,any thoughts?
 

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2003 XS MT
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5,484 Posts
I hacked my front and rear sway bars off without a second thought! DO IT!!! You will get used to it on road. Even without the sway bars the Foz still handled better than my lifted '88 suburban (with sway bars) does.

I always tell folks and will continue to: I think removing my sway bars made as much, if not more, difference offroad than my 2" strut lift.
 

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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,777 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
OK,that's good enough for me.
Sway bars history.
 

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15,720 Posts
I have removed the front and usually have the rear disconnected. I occasionally attach the rear for long highway runs. The rear swings up out of the way easily and I secure it with a couple of cable ties.
 

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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,777 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I occasionally attach the rear for long highway runs. The rear swings up out of the way easily and I secure it with a couple of cable ties.
That's what I was thinking of doing.
Already have quick disconnect pins for it.
 

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2003 XS MT
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5,484 Posts
I thought you'd already disconnected/taken them both off!!! Man, you're gonna love how she feels now!
 

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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,777 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The rear is off,the fronts disconnected (coming off).
Gonna drive on street and highway and see how it feels.
If I don't like it's on road feel I'm gonna put the rear back on since I've already got a quick disconnect set up for it.

Gonna take it to Hardrock this weekend and see how it does.
Haven't been there in a while and I'm told theirs a bunch of new trails.
 

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Smooshed FOTY 2011
2005 Lifted 2.5 XT 5-Speed MT Dual-Range
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5,732 Posts
I've been running no rear sway bar for over a year now, and I've been wanting to remove the front for a while now, but it was such a B***H to put back on so I left it, but it would have helped me immensely during that rock climb last week.

I'll probably remove the front sway bar once I get new tires/struts (and possibly lift). I'm already scarily swaying on the highway due to the crappiness of my current struts (101,000 miles on battered stock suspension).

Good to know it makes a big difference! Thanks for posting this up!
 

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8,844 Posts
Disconnecting the front will make a -huge- difference offroad. Front flex always helps, however it also causes more sway on road, so most trucks have huge front sway bars (check out the FSB compared to the RSB on solid axle grand cherokees, the front is about twice as thick as ours and the rear is about 14mm). Its just too bad theres no way to do a quick disco on the front sway bar on the forester.
 

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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,777 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Some observations...................

I removed the front sway completely,drove it around,did some highway time.
I could easily get used to this and never hook one back up but...........

I do tow a trailer with it on occasion,think it might be an issue without one.
So I put the rear with my detachable links back on and drove it around.
It doesn't cut the body roll down as well as the front one but it should be more than enough for when I tow the trailer.
Since I tow the trailer WAY LESS than I take it off road I'm gonna leave it unhooked and tied out of the way,with the lift there is a slight bind on the pins making the quick disconnect not all that quick.
 

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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,777 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
And I took it back in the wood/hills with no sways attached again and WOW,what a difference.

Had no idea what I was missing.
 

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2006 forester xt 5speed
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836 Posts
anyone know if they have front sway bar disco (like the 4x4 crowd has) i would like have them on for the day to day driving
 

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Theres not really anyway to do a front bar disconnect.

When disconnected the front bar will hit the steering components, or you would have to have it hanging straight down where it would get caught and bent offroad. Theres just no where to tie it up like on most trucks where it can just be flipped up and tied out of the way.
 

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2010 Legacy GT LTD 6 spd
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967 Posts
How about cutting a front sway at the halfway point and then having a pipe fitted and holes drilled to lock and unlock it from the center of the sway and not the endlinks.
 

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2017 VW Golf SportWagen 5MT
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10,784 Posts
Why ruin a perfectly good bar? Just disconnect the endlinks, it takes 10 minutes to do.

Stan
 

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2010 Forester 2.5X
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28 Posts
Why ruin a perfectly good bar? Just disconnect the endlinks, it takes 10 minutes to do.

Stan
That trick only works on the rear...

There isn't a good way to get the front bar out of the way with the end links disconnected. It's sort of an all or nothing deal, yank it out or leave it alone. With the ends disconnected it is going to bash around on everything.

Cutting the bar and slipping a pipe over it won't work either. The characteristics of the front anti-roll bar will be so dramatically different that you'd probably just be better off removing it intact. Anti-roll bars operate as torsion springs across the length of the bar so it's unrealistic to think that you could use a pipe and screws to achieve a similar level of torsional stiffness, or even get remotely close.
 

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2010 Legacy GT LTD 6 spd
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967 Posts
Even chrome-moly steel pipe and hardened pins made for sway bar disconnects, it would be better than nothing if it worked.
 

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2010 Forester 2.5X
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28 Posts
Even chrome-moly steel pipe and hardened pins made for sway bar disconnects, it would be better than nothing if it worked.
I'm sure the pins and pipe would be fine, it's the bar itself that I don't think will hold up. I don't know about the Forester, but front anti-roll bars typically aren't solid and have pretty thin walls. Rear bars on the other hand are often solid.

I imagine that putting pins through that thin tubing will weaken it enough to make it to break at the location of the pins. I just can't see what you're going to gain by doing this. You'll still have to remove the bar to keep it from hitting the suspension and/or ground. Removing the bar is the hard part, not undoing the fasteners (6 bolts I think).

I'm all for ideas about how to disable or remove the front anti-roll bar, but quick disconnects aren't going to solve the main problem. The main problem isn't disconnecting it, but getting it out of the way and keeping it from hitting things once it's disconnected.
 

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1,229 Posts
But if the disconnect is in the middle of the bar, then the ends can move with the suspension! There won't be anything for the bar to hit, since it will still be connected. This is actually what Jeep offered on the Rubicon I believe, but it was an electrical control to mechanically disconnect the middle of the bar. I like it, someone should try it!

Currently my anti sway bars are sitting on a shelf in the garage, and have been there for a few years. This kind of disconnect would get me to put them back on the car, for much improved street manners.
 
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