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2000 Forester Manual
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I believe I have a leak coming from the separator plate and from what I understand, that will require the engine to be pulled (or pulling the tranny but without a lift I'd imagine that is harder to do). So I'm looking for some good tutorials for an engine removal on a 2000 Forster with the target audience of a noob, I searched this sub forum but I didn't come up with anything good.

Basically I need to know what minimum tools I'll need and what has to be disconnected. I've never done an engine rebuild so I figured I'd get a bottom end that was already rebuilt and swap it in.
 

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01 Forester 5mt
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38 Posts
You plan to get a rebuilt engine because of a leaky seperator plate? It would probably be a lot cheaper to pay a shop to fix the leak.
 

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2002 Forester L 5speed
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67 Posts
If you are removing the engine, resealing or installing a new separator plate is very easy. Once the flywheel is off, just remove the screws, clean the mating surfaces, apply new sealant, and finally re-install the plate with screws.

For a how to, I bought a service manual on cd off of eBay. It was only $12 and it has a lot of information. Like everything else though, it leaves out some of the details, but I was able to find whatever else I needed on the internet.

I ended up changing the head gaskets, head bolts, timing belt and idlers, water pump, thermostat, resealed the oil pump, resealed oil separator plate, and also a rear main seal, pcv, along with all of the other gaskets you come across. It is a lot easier to do it all while the engine is out, but it just depends on what you need done. I wish I had done the clutch while I was in there too, but that's just me.

For tools, I mainly ended up using some 1/2" & 3/8" ratchets in the normal 10 12 14 17 19 mm sizes. In my case, it took about a 3' crescent wrench to break the crank pulley loose, but I only took it off to do the timing belt & oil pump work.

All of the electrical disconnects are very simple. Also, I didn't disconnect the a/c compressor, just unbolted it and moved it out of the way.

The only complication I ran into was when putting the engine back in, I couldn't get it to go far enough rearwards to get the motor mounts in. All I had to do was disconnect the dog-bone on top of the engine and it went right in.

If you would like any more detail or have any questions feel free to ask.

One last thing: always plan for double the amount of time you actually think it is going to take you.
 

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2010 Forester
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100 Posts
I just replaced my separator plate, you can see here....

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/so-i-accidentally-bought-2001-forester-going-overhaul-239489/index3.html

There is plenty of information on this forum and others, just have to spend a little time looking and reading. There are also lots of videos on Youtube you can watch.

I strongly suggest you get one of the shop repair manuals, it was a big help to me and is a perfect road map, well almost.

For tools, good torque wrench's and universals, 10mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets, a $100 Harbor Freight lift, $27 HF load leveler are a must.
 

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Smooshed FOTY 2011
2005 Lifted 2.5 XT 5-Speed MT Dual-Range
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5,732 Posts
You can go about it two ways, and for this, I would probably prefer to pull the tranny since it's a manual. Reason why......

With the engine, you would be disconnecting all the wires, hoses, need to drain the fluids, and disconnect the transmission shift fork, and would need to use a hoist to get the engine up and out of the engine bay. If you don't have a hoist, it's a no-go.

But, with the transmission, you just need a floor jack. The manual is very light, and extremely manageable. Just drain the tranny fluid (takes all of 5 minutes), remove the engine bolts, drive shaft, starter, disconnect the shift fork, remove the down pipe, disconnect the shift linkage, unbolt the transmission cradle, pop out the front axles, and lower with a floor jack. Very light, easy to do.

I've done more engine and tranny swaps than I can remember. I find it easier to pull the transmission. The last time I replaced the clutch, I pulled the tranny and it took me 1.5 hours to pull it. Versus the engine, it usually takes me about 3 hours because of all the hoses, connections, and hard to reach areas.

Getting both out is the easy part, but getting them back in is usually more time consuming. The transmission was a breeze as you can just rest it on the bottom of the block studs, and then push it up into place. With the engine dangling from the hoist, it's a pain to mate them back up correctly as you end up having to jack up the transmission anyway, and having to maneuver the engine at an angle.

So my vote? Drop the tranny. Less hoses and stuff to disconnect (less risk of breaking something, connections, etc, etc.) And it'll probably be faster.
 

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2000 Forester Manual
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks guys!

I guess a little background info might be prudent.

I bought this car for several reasons, one was to give me a daily driver and to be a back up for my current dd a 77 vw bus. I also plan to use this engine for my vw ghia but that's a ways off.
Unfortunately after buying the car I've had nothing but issues with it, first the battery, then a P0420 code, then I ran out of gas but didn't know it because the gas gauge was messed up. And now I believe I have a serious oil leak because when I changed the oil, filter and plugs I added 4.5Qts and when I checked it again after less than 10 miles of driving over two weeks it barely registered on the tip of the dip stick.

I could see oil all over the engine (but it could be older oil) and the trans and on the front O2 sensor (which might have caused the P0420 code) but I couldn't tell where it was coming from. I have since degreased it the best I could but judging on where it appears a majority of the oil was, I highly suspect the separator plate.

Supposedly the head gaskets, belts, etc were changed by the PO but I don't trust anything without receipts or seeing it done withy own eyes.

I'm going to keep an eye on the oil and hopefully the car will pass smog (I'm in CA), otherwise a new CAT is in order and if I have to remove the exhaust I might as well go all out. I figured I could tackle the separator plate and rebuild the engine now (there is a local shop that resales an ej25 sohc for about $1500).

So I'm trying to come up with a cost effective plan now if my oil problem continues.


Oh and I have the shop manual and I printed it too, all 5000 pages or so:eek:
But it's a pain in the *** to find anything in it.
 
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