[pleiad7]

Note to a customer, as posted by LIC Motorsports on their FB page yesterday. I think it's worth re-posting here as a PSA.

Dear Customer:

I have enclosed your used 105K (Timing Service Job) parts from what came off the vehicle, here are the issues listed below.

-Water Pump: NOT OEM, Noisy (its an inferior aftermarket brand), it also had no gasket on it just sealent

-Thermostat- Not OEM and had no gasket, just sealent

-Timing Belt + Accessory Belts: All NOT OEM and all stretched and the timing belt guide(s) were loose, causing a score mark on the belt

Idlers:
-Green Idler: was going bad, another non OEM part and should never be used on a Subaru
-Corse Idler: Crunchy, seems original
-Small Blue Idler: Not newest revised idler, bolt and the idler have been updated for a good reason
-Black idler: was technically still ok but was replaced to have same mileage as the other new 105K components, never should they be mixed matched.


***Nothing like paying to do a job twice when it should of been done right the first time***

 

[flstffxe]

I will agree with every thing but the aftermarket water pump. Subarus updated pump uses a stamped impeller where the aftermarket pump uses Subarus original cast impeller design.

Checking the pump with out removing it does not give you the whole story.

I have seen two Subaru water pumps where the the impeller corded to the point of breaking away from the shaft. Even after the failures the bearings/pulley felt fine. It was only upon removal of the pump where the problem was discovered.

The reason being the impeller shaft is pressed into the bearing so if the failure is with the portion of the shaft beyond the bearing or with the impeller you are not able to feel or see it.

In both cases it was a late model OEM pump with the stamped impeller that corroded and broke free. I have yet to see a similar failure with the early style OEM pumps that have the cast impeller, incidentally this seems to be what after market companies offer.

Late model OEM left. After market right

And taken from Flatironstuning.com
Late OEM right, early OEM left

 

[plazaxt]

is there a idler issue? mine froze @ 71k and took out the tbelt

 

[flstffxe]

^^ I wouldn't say there is. I would say early failures are random(or as random as random can get), I personally have a hard time running a T-belt to 105K before doing it.

 

[Nick D]

Also note sometimes doing it yourself doesn't always save you money, Did mine myself and now I have misfires codes on #2 and #4 because I didn't time the driver side cam right, now I have to pay somebody to redo what I did because I do not have the time in my busy work schedule to mess around with a damn timing belt.

Sheesh.

 

[Tremo]

Horse feathers! I've worked on cars for too many years to fall for that BS that only genuine OEM parts work. Gimmie a break.

With that said, there are both good quality, and cheapo aftermarket parts. the cheapo stuff should indeed be avoided, but good quality aftermarket parts work just fine.

Putting on parts without a gasket is the sign of an idiot mechanic, not a bad part. A Stant or a Stewart-Warner thermostat is not good quality?

And is anyone here going to tell me that Goodyear or Gates aftermarket accessory belts are not good?

Now, as far as the timing belt and other such critical items, OEM is a good idea. and when that belt is changed, so should be the idlers and tensioners.

 

[bonevvladimir]

Also note sometimes doing it yourself doesn't always save you money, Did mine myself and now I have misfires codes on #2 and #4 because I didn't time the driver side cam right, now I have to pay somebody to redo what I did because I do not have the time in my busy work schedule to mess around with a damn timing belt.

Sheesh.

It does save you money indeed ! if you don't miss steps and know what you're doing