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1999 Forester S Turbo 5MT
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My new genuine Subaru MAF arrived and I fitted it this morning. I bought a pattern part about six weeks ago for £45 on fleabay and there was no difference between it and the old one. Lesson learned! With the new MAF and 200 miles up today, it's a different car, I can't believe changing one sensor could rectify so much trouble. Jerkiness on the over run, especially around town, flat spots, hesitation, erratic/uneven idle and rough power delivery, all gone. I filled the tank this morning and at this time I reckon the needle at 200miles today is in the same position as about 160/170 normally - my usual average is 28mpg mixed driving. I get some of my Parts from these guys Japanese Import Car Parts. The MAF on this site was £89 and I have seen this particular model of Subaru MAF (00 on is different and more expensive) elsewhere for twice that. Most of the items they sell are Genuine Subaru and overall their prices and stock are pretty good I think. I also have a genuine TPS en route, lets see what that does. This has been driving me around the bend for a while now so I'm a happy bunny.
 

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Registered
2003 Forester XT
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500 Posts
you dont happen to know the g/s the maf should be reading at idle?
I think mine is on its way out (cuts out on cold starts and judders like a misfire) Also found one on ebay for £50, comes with a 12month warranty so was going to get that.
 

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Registered
1999 Forester S Turbo 5MT
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi Adam. I don't know the measurements of a healthy MAF sensor, and because of the way it works I'm not sure resistance would be an accurate marker either. I bought a cheapy on Ebay for £45 from a fellow called "Glowplugman" and it looked the real deal but changed nothiing. Although many pattern parts are fine it would seem the engine sensors need to be OEM. The MAF for the 2000 on Foz is closer to £200 and the one for £50 will almost certainly be a waste of your time and money as you will continue to be frustrated, I would advize to go for the genuine Subaru item. The site shown on my post seems to be the best for genuine parts - price, stock and delivery.
 

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Don, King of the parts diagram
MY11 WRX STi Sedan 6MT
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5,881 Posts
The OEM part no: for your MAF is 22680AA310

As Bassmaker found out to his cost, not all Ebay MAF's are up to it.
 

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Don, King of the parts diagram
MY11 WRX STi Sedan 6MT
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5,881 Posts

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Registered
2003 Forester XT
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500 Posts
I have cleaned mine and I still get the cold start cut out. But I think I may be getting more miles so it's done something :)
Still debating about the ebay one. Think I might give it a try, but I want to try a few things first. Buying an oem and finding its not the maf is costly
 

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Registered
1999 Forester S Turbo 5MT
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154 Posts
+1 on genuine MAF :Banane17:

Unbelievable how much can such a small plastic bit do! Expensive as hell, totally worth it!

Jerkiness on the over run, especially around town, flat spots, hesitation, erratic/uneven idle and rough power delivery, all gone. In addition, the car feels much sharper and got much more urge when floored.

Before I got the MAF, I could not floor the accelerator before the car reached 3500rpm. In case I did, the car would actually loose speed at a rate of 20kmph per second... With the genuine MAF this is history.

I was also contenplating getting the cheap ebay replica, thanks to this thread though I went for the original and saved myself 50 pounds.

Thanks heaps mate!! :Banane35:
 
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