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Just wondering if any of you turbo guys are running alcohol injection?

I had a 1987 Buick Regal Turbo T (Grand National) and a lot of those guys were using it overcome crappy pump gas. Basically you would have a controller that would spray it into the up pipe, after intercooler, before throttle body based on boost. I had a alky injection system on my car for a while and it was awesome.

These guys were able to up the boost from factory 14pst to like low 20's on 87 octane... without detonation, pushing head gaskets etc.

Here was one of the systems they were using. www.alkycontrol.com
 

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Mexican Lorider
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JAC said:
Just wondering if any of you turbo guys are running alcohol injection?

I had a 1987 Buick Regal Turbo T (Grand National) and a lot of those guys were using it overcome crappy pump gas. Basically you would have a controller that would spray it into the up pipe, after intercooler, before throttle body based on boost. I had a alky injection system on my car for a while and it was awesome.

These guys were able to up the boost from factory 14pst to like low 20's on 87 octane... without detonation, pushing head gaskets etc.

Here was one of the systems they were using. www.alkycontrol.com
Soon... ;)
Funny you posted a link to alkycontrol as they are local to me.

I'm torn though on which kit to use though...SMC, Snow (for obvious reasons), or have Alkycontrol fab a kit. Hmmm, decisions decisions...

My tuner seems to think 22-23psi peak and holding 19psi to redline (7100) would be the goal on my VF30/STi TMIC.

FWIW: He seems to think it would be very possible to keep the stock injectors with a TD06-20G (44 lb)/BigTMIC and get near 400whp/400wtq based on the IDC's he has been seeing on meth addicted EJ257's with similar mods and big injectors.
 

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Fmowry is running it with a 20G on his FXT. he is on this board and if he does not see this by the time I see him at lunch I will have him take a look when he gets back to the office. In fact I will just pm him the link. He might be able to answer some of your questions.
 

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Actually I have it set up on my FXT and was going to get it tuned this past Saturday but the nozzle I used was too small. It only dropped the A/F one point. I need to swap out nozzle for the bigger one I have. Unfortunately we were running late on the dyno so I didn't have time to do it then. We could have tuned it a bit with that but it wasn't worth making an additional 15-20 whp with the small nozzle.

I'm using a DIY setup with a hobb switch to activate it at 14-15 psi. I'm running it with a solenoid too too keep pressure up. That way I don't need a smart brain to ramp up the voltage on the pump.


http://www.projectwrx.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=34

Frank
 

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I'm definitely thinking of alky when I upgrade my turbo again. I can probably run two different maps right? I can use a switch to turn off the alky and run a regular map and use a switch to turn on the alky and run a alky map?
 

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Yep. Jorge makes the base map the non-alky map and then you run the alky map on top of that. That way if you have a problem with the alky setup and for some reason your AP isn't accessible, you can just disconnect the battery and run the non-alky base map.

Frank
 

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OHHH, So alky can just be a realtime map? Nicer than I thought. What happens if you run out of alky and you floor it while running the alky map? Boom?

fmowry said:
Yep. Jorge makes the base map the non-alky map and then you run the alky map on top of that. That way if you have a problem with the alky setup and for some reason your AP isn't accessible, you can just disconnect the battery and run the non-alky base map.

Frank
 

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Well you're gonna run lean and an buttload of timing will get pulled trying to stop knock. Whether or not things go boom depends on how long you stay on it before realizing it and also how aggressive your tune is.

Frank
 

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Are there kits that have warning lights or buzzers for low or empty fluid?

fmowry said:
Well you're gonna run lean and an buttload of timing will get pulled trying to stop knock. Whether or not things go boom depends on how long you stay on it before realizing it and also how aggressive your tune is.

Frank
 

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ZuMBLe said:
Are there kits that have warning lights or buzzers for low or empty fluid?
Put it in your windshield wiper fluid container. That thing has a low level indicator. And the methanol does a decent job on the windows!
 

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fmowry said:
Actually I have it set up on my FXT and was going to get it tuned this past Saturday but the nozzle I used was too small. It only dropped the A/F one point. I need to swap out nozzle for the bigger one I have. Unfortunately we were running late on the dyno so I didn't have time to do it then. We could have tuned it a bit with that but it wasn't worth making an additional 15-20 whp with the small nozzle.

I'm using a DIY setup with a hobb switch to activate it at 14-15 psi. I'm running it with a solenoid too too keep pressure up. That way I don't need a smart brain to ramp up the voltage on the pump.


http://www.projectwrx.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=34

Frank
Are you using 100% methanol, or a meth/water mix? 50/50 mix is recomended for supercharger applications. The water is used to help cool the charge more efficiently than alcohol. I'm not sure if this applies to an intercooled turbo.
 

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Interesting.. Sounds like expensive washer fluid though.. hehe.

MountainBiker said:
Put it in your windshield wiper fluid container. That thing has a low level indicator. And the methanol does a decent job on the windows!
 

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Frank told me he was running 50/50. The magic number they are looking for is 400awhp once the nozzle is changed out!

Not sure how much it costs but Frank says he just picks it up from Home Depot. he also is using the washer fluid tank for the rear washer. Said that his buddy that has it on his sti usually fills it up about every other time he gets gas.

Frank basically has a secondary map on his AP and once the nozzle is swapped out he will be tuning again and updating the map. Sounds like a really neat set up though I have not seen it yet.
 

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I thought that the rear washer used the tank from the engine bay...

DAMWAGN said:
Not sure how much it costs but Frank says he just picks it up from Home Depot. he also is using the washer fluid tank for the rear washer. Said that his buddy that has it on his sti usually fills it up about every other time he gets gas.
 

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I use the main washer tank. I have a little bottle for washer fluid that I haven't hooked up yet. Does the main washer tank have a low indicator?

I use 50/50 distilled/denatured alcohol. Denatured is less corrosive than methanol. And 50/50 is not flamable. Again, I don't have the map yet, as the jet was too small, but we did run the setup and checked for leaks, and saw that the small nozzle dropped A/F by a whole point.

Frank
 

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ZuMBLe said:
Interesting.. Sounds like expensive washer fluid though.. hehe.
~$2.75 a gallon. Good motivation to use it sparingly!
 

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just use distilled water and 90% isopropyl alcohol ???
 

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Okay, what is the goal? If the goal is to decrease the risk of detonation (which is what I always thought this was about, but I could be wrong), then 90% isopropyl isn't a good idea from what I've read.

I'm still in the research mode, but if it were me, I'd make sure I had a specific goal (i.e., detonation reduction, more ignition advance and a bit of intake charge cooling), and fully understand what will actually happen in the intake tract and combustion chamber.
 

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fmowry said:
Denatured is less corrosive than methanol.
Hmmm, I'll have to look into that. I do know that the many windshield washer fluids are just a 50/50 mix of Methanol and Water with blue die.
 

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Check out the many threads at NASIOC.

My goal is to cool the intake charge. It's a chemical intercooler to supplement my upgraded TMIC. I can only run 18-19 psi now with the Green because of the TMIC. I'll be able to run it in it's sweet spot of 22 psi with a 50/50 denatured/distilled mix.

Frank
 
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