austin98 said:
Ok Fellas, new news. First, I trusted the mechanic that did the alignment, heck I took it too him twice. tre36 sugested to look at the caster spec on the alignment............Ah ha! it is 1.6 degrees on the left and 2.8 on the right, normal range is 2.4-3.2 i believe. I think the mechanic did not adjust this because there was not a diagram on the print out sheet for the vehicle, it did show how to adjust tow and one other adjustment. I hope this adjustment will be the fix. Next........how do I find how to adjust the left caster. Thanks again.
But that still doesn't look right. Your caster is lower on the left at 1.6 versus 2.8 on the right side. Your car should be pulling a tad to the right instead of the left with those specs because the higher the positive caster the better the tire grips the road by increasing contact patch to the road.
Bad news though, caster is not adjustable from the factory. I have a tiny bit of positive caster on the right on my car after a suspension upgrade but nothing severe and hardly noticeable. However, someone posted something about adjusting the caster with adjustable camber plates if I can recall correctly? I will try to dig for that thread in other Forums though maybe irrelevant at this point with your case.
Rereading your initial post, the caster explains the pull somewhat but your caster spec does not justify the the left pull. Nor does the specs on the caster explain the left pull on with your car getting worst at higher speeds.
I am aware you rotated your tires, but how many miles on the tires? Are all four tires evenly worned? What brand and make are tires?
Try this first before you bring the car in for a thorough inspection - given tires are good and toe and camber spec are zero:
Check pressure for all tires in the morning. Adjust tire pressure to 35 all around. Test vehicle. For some hunch, I am leaning towards your tires now. Can you confirm if your car has been in an accident and how bad?