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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
You could do this cheaply if you're willing to pass on some performance... just a little! All you really need is a turbo/up-pipe, down pipe/CAT, BOV & engine management. Skip the intercooler & additional fuel injector. The Subaru engine runs rich anyways, so I doubt if you'll have a problem running too lean at 6 psi of boost. :wink:

Who knows, you might find parts for a project like this for sale. :wink:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Well, I suppose one could run a small FMIC as well....

Haha, my car would be an epic sleeper. No hoodscoop. Outback. Stock looking, minus the lights and lift (but most people don't notice the lift).
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 · (Edited)
AVO Turbo Kit - Part 7 - The down pipe/CAT is fitted!

Once the turbo/up-pipe are installed, the down pipe/CAT was fitted. It didn’t fit... kinda expected this, but the problem was easy to resolve. The AVO Turbo Kit isn't specifically designed for the Forester, so some parts & attachments are not needed. This was the case with the support bracket on the down pipe. Once the bracket was removed, the down pipe/CAT bolted right up. :smile:

Now that the test fitting is complete, the turbo/up-pipe & downpipe/CAT have been removed so they can be wrapped with DEI Titanium exhaust wrap. Pictures to follow. :wink:

Bobby...

The upper picture shows the entire downpipe/CAT as it comes in the AVO Turbo Kit. The red arrow on the lower picture shows the bracket that needs to be removed.

After pondering how to remove the bracket, I decided this would be a great time to use my Visa reward points (free) Dremel 4000! I used a metal cutoff wheel & other than being careful not to cut the pipe, it was a fun task. :cool: I should note that the remaining bracket edges were smoothed off so it wouldn't cut the DEI exhaust wrap.

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The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Cool! Two of my favorite tools are my Dremel (an older model) and my Harbor Freight 4.5" angle grinder/cutter. I haven't used a hacksaw in a long time. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Exhaust maintenance!

Rust-Oleum B-B-Q black high temperature paint, my go to high temperature exhaust paint!

We just wipe off the exhaust pipe with an old wash cloth... just to remove the loose rust & dirt & spray. No paint on the CATs or heat shields.

Everything is painted in place with the Forester on ramps. Masking if necessary, usually just using a piece of cardboard or a paper bag for portable masking. I place old cardboard on the driveway & I slide around under the Forester painting as I see things that need a touch up.

This paint also works great on brake rotors, calipers & brake drums. Take a look at this post in my '07 FSXT Member Journal. :wink:

Bobby

Here's a couple pictures of the '03 X with the exhaust painted with Rust-Oleum B-B-Q black paint.




The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 · (Edited)
AVO Turbo Kit - Part 8a - Turbo/up-pipe wrapped!

This was ugly! It's right up there with one of my least favorite things to do! It went pretty good the first time… yes, the first time, but as I finished the wrapping & cut the wrap, it slipped out of my hands! I swear it unraveled like it was alive! :icon_eek: Try as I might, there was no saving the wrap, so it went in the trash & I used the second roll which was for the down pipe/CAT. :mad: This time I was experienced, so it went smoothly, but I hate doing this & I still have the down pipe/CAT to do. Luckily… or unluckily, I had to order more exhaust wrap, so I have some time to recover from this hideous task! :huh:

Bobby...

Here’s a picture of the turbo/up-pipe wrapped with DEI Titanium exhaust wrap. They recommend a wider spacing, but I don’t recommend it on bends! This stuff is spendy, but not having to do a wet installation or having to spray it (neither is recommended) is worth the extra cost. :wink:

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The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
You'd think they'd use a locking weave on exhaust wrap so it wouldn't keep coming apart? :confused: The stuff looks good & will keep the engine compartment cooler, so it's worth the hassle... besides, there's no way it could be installed on the vehicle! :icon_eek:

I ordered twice as much as I'll need for the down pipe/CAT. Got to respect "Murphy's law". :wink:

As far as the project goes, we're going to install the turbo/up-pipe & continue putting things together. The down pipe/CAT can be installed after I get the exhaust wrap. This project has been great fun, as well as a learning experience. :cool:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Well, I don't like the way it looks really, but it really does keep my engine bay much cooler. I ran without the wrap for a little bit right after the new engine went in, and it was HOT until I re-wrapped. I ended up using Thermo-Tec wrap instead since that is what they had at the AutoZone locally, but it seems to be working pretty well. My bay is more prone to heat retention as well with the solid skidplate.

When you get done with this, I'd like some in-car footage of you or Alex driving the car. Always wanted to hear what the turbo kit sounds like. Is the '03 running aftermarket UEL, or factory EL headers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
The "diaper" has been removed on both our Foresters, since we never go off road. :wink:

You wrapped your headers while they were on your OB? That must have been a chore! :icon_eek:

We're running the stock factory EL headers, so no boxer rumble, but it has a custom CAT back exhaust with a Magnaflow muffler, so it sounds pretty good. I'll do an exhaust sound clip when it running. :smile:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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No, I took them off. :lol: I've heard of people doing them on the car though... crazy!

I think Alex may need a Borla replica header... :wink: :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Okay, that makes sense. :smile:

No header upgrade at this time... kinda MODded out about now. :huh:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 · (Edited)
AVO Turbo Kit - Part 8b - Downpipe/CAT is wrapped!

The DEI Titanium exhaust wrap was delivered yesterday. I didn't need a 50' roll, but since I couldn’t find a '25 roll, I have some left over for another project. :smile:

I thought the downpipe/CAT would be a bit easier, even if it's longer than the up-pipe/turbo, but the O2 bungs added to the fun! This wrap is installed dry, so it needs to be installed "tight". By the time I was done, my hands were aching! :frown:

I have to admit this was PIA, but having done the up-pipe/turbo, I knew what to expect when starting & ending the wrapping. As with the up-pipe/turbo, I used all stainless steel hose clamps instead of stainless steel zip ties. I like being able to loosen them if I need to make adjustments. :wink:

Bobby…
Here's the project. :icon_eek:

Here's the wrapped downpipe/CAT, ready to be installed. Notice the direction of the wraps. You don't want the forward motion of the vehicle to drive water between the wraps, you want it to go over the wraps. :wink:

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The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 · (Edited)
Thanks! :biggrin:

It was a PIA to install, but I have to admit it looks great! It looks like carbon fiber when the sunlight hits it! :cool:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve & hose replacement.

It's way too hot outside to work on the AVO Turbo Kit reinstallation project, so I figures this would be a great time to do this write up. I should note here that you may see parts removed & wiring connectors covered with plastic bags. This is all part of the AVO Turbo Kit reinstallation project. None of that is required to replace the PCV valve & hose. :

The parts:
  • PCV - 11810AA040 - $13.00
  • Hose - 99071AB731 - $5.37
  • Yellow teflon thread sealing tape.
I live on the West coast, but I get all my Subaru parts from Jackie, SubaruPartsGirl, a supporting vendor here on the forum. Her direct number at Annapolis Subaru is (866) 509-3019.

The only tool you'll need is a 19mm or 3/4" deep socket, matching extension & ratchet. I did this with a regular socket, but It would be easier with a deep socket. I should also mention the PCV valve was on real tight, so expect to give it some force to break it loose. I've read where the pressed in block fitting can come loose when the PCV valve fitting is being removed.

Bobby…

This picture shows the parts, plus some additional items I added. I was going to use hose clamps, but I decided against this. More details on this later in the write up.

The upper picture shows the PCV valve with the hose removed. The lower picture shows the PCV valve removed.

The upper picture shows green masking tape placed in the case hole to prevent anything from falling in while the factory applied sealant is removed. The factory uses what looks like a gray silicone sealer. The lower picture shows the old & new PCV valve. If I had to guess, I'd say the old PCV valve was still functioning perfectly. I cleaned it, tagged it & put it with my other saved used parts.

The upper picture shows the new PCV valve with yellow teflon thread sealing tape applied. No need to go crazy with the tape. As you can see I cut the 1/2" teflon tape in half & used a couple wraps towards the center of the tapered threads. The lower picture shows the new PCV valve installed. No real need for a precise torque, since it's a tapered pipe thread. You should be able to feel when it's tight.

The upper picture shows why you should replace the hose. notice how much wider the lower, old hose is, compared to the upper new hose. The old hose was getting loose at the PCV valve & it was starting to let oil seep out. The lower picture shows the new hose & a trick I use to keep the hose tight. I use 3/4" length of plastic tubing, which is smaller than the hose. I expand it on a pair of long nose pliers, then slide it onto the hose before it shrinks back. The tubing will act like a hose clamp, preventing the hose from getting loose as it ages. Of course you could add hose clamps, but I didn't think it was required in this application since the new hose was very tight, especially with the vinyl tubing trick. More information on the vinyl tubing installation can be found on my post here.

The diagram above is from Fuel Injection (Fuel System)_Intake Manifold.

Here's a picture of the complete job. If you look closely, you can see the 3/4" length of plastic tubing that I placed on hose ends.

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #2)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 · (Edited)
7,000 Views milestone!

I happen to spot this yesterday, so I had to add a screen snapshot to our Member Journal! :cool:

Bobby...
July 26, 2007
7,000 Views!


The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 
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