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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I agree! It was difficult to drill the four 1/4" holes in the hatch when I installed the spoiler on my '07 FSXT! :icon_eek:

Perhaps this summer when we have the '03 X torn apart for the AVO turbo kit redo, we'll tackle the side turn signal light project... or not! :wink:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
All Weather Mat coaster MOD.

Another oldie but goodie... too bad the All Weather Mat coasters were discontinued by Subaru. :frown: Here's a link to my original post.

Thanks to @satalac for this great MOD! It looks like his pictures are gone, but the posts are still there.

I run into a problem when I started to MOD the All Weather drink coasters. How did I center the lettering? I made a template of the factory/OEM mat out of clear plastic. Now I can center the template while looking thru it to see if the lettering is where I want it to be. I used electrical scissors to cut the All Weather drink coasters to size.

Bobby...


The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #2)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 

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I agree! It was difficult to drill the four 1/4" holes in the hatch when I installed the spoiler on my '07 FSXT! :icon_eek:

Perhaps this summer when we have the '03 X torn apart for the AVO turbo kit redo, we'll tackle the side turn signal light project... or not! :wink:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)

There are days when I'm ready to cut the 2.5" hole in my OB's fender for a snorkel. There are other days when I say, "No. Just no."

It's an emotional thing, I guess? :crazy:

I'd like the side turns for my car too. Hrmm... actually I just want an entire JDM Legacy Lancaster S (twin turbo plz). That was the Japanese version of my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Don't the Aussies have snorkels that just bolt on... yes, I can see it would have to get inside somewhere or should that be, somehow... :frown:

I always thought those side turn signal lights looked good. I especially like the amber ones. I'm going to finish that project this summer! :cool:

The '07 FSXT has the turn signals on the dumbo ears (mirrors), so it would be redundant on that Forester. :wink:

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I have a set of those coasters...well, 3 since the dog started to chew on one. Awesome idea for the console.
You can't get those anymore! Put them up for sale... auction style! :cool:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
DEI Titanium exhaust wrap.

Another item for the MODding parts box! We're going to wrap the AVO turbo kit up/down pipes during our redo project that will start shortly.

Bobby...

The picture below shows the DEI Titanium exhaust wrap exhaust wrap. This stuff is spendy, but it has a couple major advantage:
  • It doesn't shrink, so a wet installation isn't required.
  • It doesn't stretch.
  • No protective spray is required or recommended.

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The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #2)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
What are the advantages of wrapping the exhaust?
Unless you upgraded your headers or exhaust, most of the pipes are already coved with a factory heat shield. :wink:

The main reason we're wrapping the up/down pipes is as Brian said, to reduce the heat in the engine compartment. There are other reasons for using exhaust heat wrap & reasons for not using it. We're using it to contain & reduce the heat in the engine compartment. :smile:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
AVO Turbo Kit - Part 4 - TMIC & 5th fuel injector.

This post details how to improve the mounting of the 5th fuel injector onto the TMIC (Top Mounted Intercooler). I figure it's better to address this now, than later as a repair issue. :wink:

Bobby...

The left picture shows the TMIC removed from the shipping box with some packing still attached. The right picture shows how the 5th fuel injector comes attached to the TMIC. Note that it's all held together with one nut on each threaded rod & how the threads are sealed with red RTV... a very sloppy job! In addition, the threaded rod is not stainless steel, so it would be rusty in no time at all! The plain steel threaded rod could also interact with the aluminum TMIC. IMO, a very poor design & a very sloppy installation! :mad:

I decided to replace the threaded rod with a stainless steel threaded rod. I knew it was metric, but I needed to know the size (width) & thread pitch. The left picture shows how I measured the width of the threads, which measured 6mm & the right picture shows how I measured the thread pitch (distance between the threads), which measured 1mm. No need for a fancy measurement doodad!​

The left picture shows the stainless steel threaded rod I found at Bisco Tool Supply. The stainless steel threaded rod was very inexpensive, less than the cost to ship it! The right picture shows the stainless steel threaded rod & the 2 pieces I cut from the 3' (1 Meter) piece. The 2 plain steel threaded rod pieces, which are being replaced, are on the right side.​

The left picture shows the stainless steel threaded rod threads sealed with yellow teflon tape before being screwed into the TMIC. White teflon thread sealing tape can be used, but the yellow teflon tape is twice the thickness & is easier to install. The right picture shows both stainless steel threaded rods installed. I secured them with a washer, lock washer & a nut, all stainless steel. This is an improvement over the way the factory installed plain steel threaded rod.​

The left picture shows how the 5th fuel injector goes together. The right picture shows the 5th fuel injector installed into the TMIC. The rubber O rings should be lightly lubed with clean motor oil to ease the installation.​

These pictures shows the complete 5th injector installation onto the TMIC. To secure the top plate on both sides, I placed a washer & nut under the plate & a washer, lock washer & nut on the top. Again, all stainless steel hardware, an improvement over the factory installation. The red cap is to prevent anything from getting into the fuel line fitting.​

These last 2 pictures show how the 5th fuel injector is positioned in the TMIC. On the right picture I used a yellow circle to show the injector.​

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The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
AVO Turbo Kit - Part 5 - Painting the TMIC AVO letters!

The AVO letters embossed on the TMIC (Top Mounted Intercooler) looked a bit too plain to us, so we decided to dress it up with a bit of color! :cool:

We used Rust-Oleum protective gloss enamel spray paint in black & orange.

The upper picture shows the sticker that came with the AVO Turbo Kit. We got the letter colors from this label. The lower picture shows how plain the embossed AVO looks on the TMIC.​


The upper picture shows the required masking job. What a PIA! The lower picture shows the "O" covered so the "AV" can be painted black.​


The upper picture shows the "AV" painted black. The lower picture shows the "AV" covered with an old plastic TV dinner dish. I love it when I can use the crap I save!​


The upper picture shows the "O" painted orange. The lower pictures shows the letters painted, ready for the masking tape to be removed.​


These pictures show the masking tape being removed.


These pictures show the embossed AVO lettering painted. A lot of work to paint 3 letters, but we feel it was worth it! :cool:
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The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
Alex's 20th Birthday - cake & goodies for the Forester!

Alex is 20 this month! Damn that makes me feel old! It's hard to believe how quickly the time has flown by! :icon_eek:

Alex wisely asked for some practical gifts for his Forester... better "free" than have to fork out the moola, so that's the reason for the Momo A/T shift knob & the 2 rear hatch lifters. The Kartboy oil cap was my idea. :wink:

Bobby...
This is same cake Alex has requested for more years than I can remember! :confused:


Here's the Forester specific Birthday gifts.

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Momo AT shift knob installed!

Time for Alex to install his new Momo AT shift knob!

Bobby...

The upper picture shows the stock shift knob. The lower pictures shows the shift knob removed. It's very easy to remove, it just unscrews.

Here's the installed Momo AT shift knob. This is a very easy installation. Before you install it, screw the bottom piece to the the top (knob), they are shipped in 2 parts to fit into the box. Screw the knob on, making sure you get the lettering where you want it as it gets tight.

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #2)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Rear hatch lifter (stay) replacement.

The rear hatch lifters were getting weak. They needed some help to open fully when it was cool outside. Alex wanted this as one of his Birthday presents... very wise, since they're nearly $50 each!

This is one of those jobs that requires a second person. You need a helper to hold up the hatch while the lifter is being removed & being installed. That rear hatch is much heavier than it looks!

I get my Subaru parts from Jackie, @SubaruPartsGirl a supporting vendor here on the forum. Her direct number at Annapolis Subaru is (866) 509-3019.

Subaru part description & part number:

• STAY ASSY R G LH - 63269SA011
• STAY ASSY R G RH - 63269SA001

Bobby...

Note that the ball isn't installed into the socket. It's shipped this way so the ball can be screwed into the body first, then the lifter arm is snapped on.


The upper picture shows the tail light being removed. The tail light needs to be removed to access the lifter ball joint, which is screwed into the body behind the tail light. After removing the two 10mm bolts on the tail light, use a piece of cloth & a plastic pry bar to release the 3 retaining pins. The lower picture shows tail light held in place with masking tape & you can see the ball joint that needs to be removed.


The upper picture shows the old ball joint being removed with an open end wrench. The lower picture shows the upper mounting being removed. I need to note here that this job would be difficult without a helper holding up the hatch!

The upper picture shows the upper mounting of the new lifter being installed. We coated the threads of the bolts & the ball joint with NO-OX-ID "A" rust preventive coating (grease). The lower picture shows the new ball joint being screwed in. Once the ball joint is screwed in, the socket on the lifter can be snapped on. If the socket on the lift arm doesn't line up with the ball, it can be turned with some effort.

I didn't include any picture on how to reinstall the tail lights, but it's as simple as lining up the 3 retaining pins & pushing the tail light until they click in. Tighten the two 10mm bolts & you're done. One thing that might be a problem is the starting of the bolts, which have to be positioned correctly for the threads to catch. I find that the bottom bolt is more of a problem than the upper bolts. If the bolt isn't going in easily, back it off & try again, so as not to cross thread the bolts.

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #2)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
'08 Sports tail light repair!

When we were doing the hatch lifter replacement yesterday (see above), we discovered the right rear '08 Sports tail light had cracks around the lower mounting point! Very strange, since there shouldn't be any major stress there. :confused:

Bobby...

The upper picture shows the Plastic Fusion epoxy adhesive that I used to repair the cracked area on the back side of the tail light. The lower picture shows where the cracking was, marked in yellow & the start of the Plastic Fusion application.​

These last 2 pictures show the Plastic Fusion application. I used regular super glue, followed up with an instant activator on the front. The Plastic Fusion is great for building up an area where it's not visible, but I didn't want to use it on the front where it could be seen. Regular super glue worked perfectly on the front. It wicked into the cracks & I followed up with an activator to instantly set (harden) the glue.​

We reinstalled the '08 Sports tail light today & the repair appears to be a complete success! Since the major repairs were done on the back, nothing is visible from the front. :cool:

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Kartboy oil cap installed!

Alex installed another Birthday gift on his Forester! :cool:

Bobby...
Here's a picture of the Kartboy oil cap installed on the Prova AOS (Air/Oil Separator).

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
This time of year everything is starting to grow & the yard work is getting to be a PIA! Not a whole lot of time to work on our 3 vehicles. :icon_eek:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
 
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