The rear hatch lifters were getting weak. They needed some help to open fully when it was cool outside. Alex wanted this as one of his Birthday presents... very wise, since they're nearly $50 each! :icon_eek:
This is one of those jobs that requires a second person. You need a helper to hold up the hatch while the lifter is being removed & being installed. That rear hatch is much heavier than it looks! :icon_eek:
I get my Subaru parts from Jackie, SubaruPartsGirl, a supporting vendor here on the forum. Her direct number at Annapolis Subaru is (866) 509-3019. :wink:
Subaru part description & part number:
- STAY ASSY R G LH - 63269SA011
- STAY ASSY R G RH - 63269SA001Note that the ball isn't installed into the socket. It's shipped this way so the ball can be screwed into the body first, then the lifter arm is snapped on.
The upper picture shows the tail light being removed. The tail light needs to be removed to access the lifter ball joint, which is screwed into the body behind the tail light. After removing the two 10mm bolts on the tail light, use a piece of cloth & a plastic pry bar to release the 3 retaining pins. The lower picture shows tail light held in place with masking tape & you can see the ball joint that needs to be removed.
The upper picture shows the old ball joint being removed with an open end wrench. The lower picture shows the upper mounting being removed. I need to note here that this job would be difficult without a helper holding up the hatch!
The upper picture shows the upper mounting of the new lifter being installed. We coated the threads of the bolts & the ball joint with NO-OX-ID "A" rust preventive coating (grease). The lower picture shows the new ball joint being screwed in. Once the ball joint is screwed in, the socket on the lifter can be snapped on. If the socket on the lift arm doesn't line up with the ball, it can be turned with some effort.
I didn't include any picture on how to reinstall the tail lights, but it's as simple as lining up the 3 retaining pins & pushing the tail light until they click in. Tighten the two 10mm bolts & you're done. One thing that might be a problem is the starting of the bolts, which have to be positioned correctly for the threads to catch. I find that the bottom bolt is more of a problem than the upper bolts. If the bolt isn't going in easily, back it off & try again, so as not to cross thread the bolts.
The Table of Contents for Alex's Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #2)
There is a little blank on the rear of the boot hatch (or trunk hatch for all you non-Brits) that you can remove, put your finger in and flick the lock over so you can lock the hatch when the battery isn't connected. Discovered it when I was replacing a battery and ended up with a flat battery and then a knackered battery and the one I wanted wasn't in stock!I should note here that you want the rear hatch locked before you disconnect the battery, unless you want it left unlocked!
I used the same kind of switches, 15 minutes and a Dremel tool with the dentist bit does the trick. I messed up on one of them when the bit spun out and scratched the showing surface. :icon_redface: Of course, your end result is much cleaner than mine, nobody got time for shrink wrap! I used hot glue like I use on speaker jacks on my custom cabinets.
When I was searching switches for my project, I wanted square mini rocker switches. I thought I'd have to make square holes, but I found these Alcoswitch TDR series mini rocker switches which mount in a round 1/2" hole!I always try and use switches that require a round hole and ones with integrated LED's! So much easier - looks great though!