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2007 Forester
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Been getting a front end clunk when driving over expansion joints on the highway. Dealer says I need new end links and bushings. Steering feels a little squishy. This Eddie Bauer 2007 Forester is a sometime daily driver with 80K miles. Everything is stock and since I am in Texas, I have no rust.

Can I replace the end links from below with the front end on ramps? It's a little tight for me but doable. Is the stabilizer under load when the car is on ramps - will it snap back on me? Can I also replace the bushings while the car is on ramps? It appears like there may be room to remove the nut and bolt without lowering the sub frame. Perhaps there is not room thus requiring the sub frame removal. Any advice or thoughts are welcome.

I plan to use either Subaru #20470SA001 end links or Moog #K750049 end links. If I do the bushings, I plan to use the Moog split #K200635 bushings. Any recommendations on what parts to use or not use for this stock vehicle?

Thanks.
 

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Super Moderator
2018 X3 M40i / 2016 X3 xDrive35i
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1,622 Posts
Suspension loaded or unloaded has been fine for sway bars in my experience, so long as both sides are level. If you're in a garage or driveway working on it and one side is lower than the other you're loading the sway bar's torsion. Moog's gone downhill in quality in many cases. I have no direct experience with their endlinks but I have purchased proforged inner and outer tie rods and I was VERY impressed with the quality of those components.

Their front endlinks look beefy as hell.

PROFORGED 11310542
 

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2007 Forester
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. It looks like I can replace the end links on the ramps in my driveway. Still need to know if I can replace the bushings without removing the sub frame. Thanks.
 

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2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
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2017 Forester XT Premium CVT
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Bob,
I don't have an '07 but I have replaced the front end links thrice (and bushings once). If your driveway is fairly flat you can definately do it on ramps. If your a little off-level you should be able to force the bar up/down by hand enough to get the bolt in. If your car is otherwise stock suspension I highly recommend stock replacement links. Most of the aftermarket "performance" links are junk. I had the best fitment and experience with the Kartboy brand as mentioned by TMX, but even these are tearing the rubbers out. On stock swaybars nothing will last as long as stock links.

*Have replaced the Kartboy links with all-metal Sway-A-Way links - no rubber to wear out.
 

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2007 Forester
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
End links arrived from Amazon the other day so I got up early and installed two of them this morning. I put the car up on ramps and was able to reach everything from the front. Total elapsed time for removal and installation was 70 minutes. It's 92F outside now - I could probably have done them more quickly at 60F.

I chose Beck/Arnley #101-5179 links which are a replacement for the OE# 20470SA001 links. They are geometrically the same as OEM, they installed easily and my test ride was satisfactory with no clunks. Why Beck/Arnley? They were roughly $30 delivered with Prime. OEM would have been about twice that. The ratings on the Beck/Arnley links were as good if not better than the other choices. I have had good luck with Beck/Arnley products on various foreign cars over the last 50 years.

Removal tools: 14MM closed end 12 point ratchet wrench , 5MM hex socket and PB blaster sprayed on the old threads.

Installation tools: 17MM closed end 12 point ratchet ($5 from Amazon) and 5MM hex socket.

As noted, I did use closed end ratchet wrenches but it can be done with closed end wrenches. This is definitely a DIY task. I did not replace the bushings because I couldn't tell from part descriptions, what the diameter of the bar was. My bar is 20.32MM which is probably nominally 20MM. Thanks to all who contributed advice and diagrams/pictures.
 
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