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2009 & Jamboree Motorhome
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347 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A bit about things I have found out..

That rattle in the back of your Forester ( 01 to date).. If you do not use the 3rd rear seat seatbelt.. And its in the headliner.. Pull it out a bit.. And if both ends are hooked to the roof roll the buckle up in the belt a couple times and put it back in the holder.. It may take a time to two to work it out so there is no extra belt at the front by the holder but you will work it out..That will stop that rattle.. If you have a newer forester and its only attached to the on one end.. Just pull it out a ways and roll the buckles up in the belt about 3 times and put it back in the holder.. Rattle fixed..

What the heck oil do I use?? And why.. Well there are millions of things about oil.. So for those of us that just want to know a touch about oil so we do not screw up our engine.. Here it is simple.. OK.. My terms are wrong but I got the story right.. And by the way.. Read the owners manual after reading this and you will understand more about what it means about oil..

Oil is simple 5 weight will lube the engine when cold but will break down when hot.. 30 weight takes a while to start moving when cold so the bearings are not getting lube when starting in the cold but will not break down as fast so lubs far better at higher temps... Thats good..

What is 5-30 oil.. Its 5 weight oil with a Viscosity extender added.. This stuff will now be know as stuff. :biggrin: A 5 weight oil is great when the engine is cold because it will lube the engine on startup as its thin.. But it will break down when it gets hot but by adding that stuff it will be 5 weight oil when the engine is cold but will not break down until its at the temp where 30 weight oil would break down.. Thats good..

So great.. Why not just add more stuff and it make a 0-50 and cover everything.. Sad to say it has some problems.. Seems the more of that stuff you add to the oil the more it wants to break down at high temps.. And when it does it forms sludge.. OK.. Thats bad.. So by using oils where the low number and high number are closer together means it will not cause as much sludge.. So we can run it longer.. Thats the way it works..

But if you read your manual it says in summer and when pulling trailers and in the mts.. Use some thing like a 10-40(those numbers are far apart) ect.. But read on.. Change the oil by 3700 miles.. Thats to get rid of the sludge.. Now you know.. You need the heavier or higher number oil for high temps but need to change it more often to keep the sludge down..

Ok, so now we know the lower number means how well the oil flows when cold and the upper is when it breaks down and now all you need to figure out is how you use your car.. Sorry can't help there.. But for those who want to know more about oil I have found this site does seem to explain it well enough even I can understand some of it.. And no I can not buy that kind of oil where I live so just some place to read and perhaps understand a bit more..

Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms

Have a Forester with the over head glass case in the roof.. Drop by the local hardware store or walmart and pick up some 3/8" round felt pads with the sticky stuff on the back.. Open the glass case and you will see a stop some where inside. (On the newer Foresters its on the drivers side) after you open it you will see the stop has a black felt pad its to hard to stop a rattle so stick a felt pad on it and close the case.. Rattle gone..

For those that have the Foresters with the black or gray trim on the bottoms.. Pick up some Mothers Back to Black at most parts houses, Or walmart.. Or Black Magic by who ever.. They are a cream works great on lower trim. Bumpers, top racks and luggage boxes.. Makes them look great.. But over time will wash off.. However its real simple to put on and makes it look so good its seems worth it..

Ever pulled your trailer or had you top box on for lots of miles and when you get home your fuel mileage seems to stay low.. I think its because your computer worked out how to add extra fuel with that stuff on the car so it would run better.. But it does not seem to me it changes back fast enough and waste to much fuel while I wait.. So the last 4 cars I have had I just unhook the ground cable at the battery for a half hour or so and rehook it.. You will need to resit the clock ect.. But fuel mileage will be back up real soon.

Hope some of you understood some of what I said.. Always intresting about those that read this stuff and have no clue what was said.. Or perhaps intresting how bad I can screw it up..

Snowdance

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Registered
2006 V50 T5 6spd Manual
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2,510 Posts
Thanks, snowdance, for those useful tidbits! :smile:
 

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Registered
2008 Forester AE
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1,723 Posts
Whoa, Commonsense detector just went off the chart.. nice to see that happen once in awhile.

Thanks for your helpful, useful, and detailed post.
Sometime we get a little caught up in the stuff..
:biggrin:
 

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Registered
2005 Impreza RS Wagon Auto
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3,658 Posts
Whoa, Commonsense detector just went off the chart.. nice to see that happen once in awhile.

Thanks for your helpful, useful, and detailed post.
Sometime we get a little caught up in the stuff..
:biggrin:
Yeah it's called modding and complaining lol.
 
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