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08 BMW X3 3.0si 6MT X-Drive
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've got a couple issues I need help with - If anyone out there has any knowledge they can share from doing this, I'd be greatly appreciative. :)

Car: 2004 5MT Forester XT
Transmission: 2007 STi 6MT with R180, Spiider DCCD controller

#1) I had a knocking in the rear when taking off/clutch shuddering (new clutch) - I found the drive shaft was hitting the rear subframe. We shimmed the drive shaft mount, and now that no longer hits. Has this been done before? I haven't read about needing to do this.

#2) I get a knocking from the front when the clutch shudders/during certain types of transmission movement. Is anyone aware of any shimming that needs to be done to keep the 6MT from hitting things in the Forester? I have no idea what's hitting so far, but it only does it under a lot of transmission vibration.

#3) I have a sound on occasion that sounds like a metallic spinning thing is rubbing metal and scraping...sounds like the drive shaft, but there are no marks and no obvious places where it's hitting.

#4) STi flywheel requires STi starter. I learned this the hard way.

#5) I've lost cruise control and some interior lights in the car. May be a burnt out fuse...I'm not sure.

Does anyone who's done this have any pointers/suggestions? I'm ALMOST there - just need to fix the remaining nagging issues. Going to the shop tomorrow, so any advice I can get will help.

Thanks for reading! :)
 

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2004 XT
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3,205 Posts
i know on mine they had to use the 6 speed crossmember to make it work and it still didn't fit perfectly in the forester, had to use an ingalls adjustable mount to make it sit right.

i didn't do mine myself so maybe some of the other can help more. Cayenne Red 6 speed are the coolest too, i know from personal experience
 

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2004 XT
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Yeah...please take pics of how your tranny's mounted, if you don't mind...I'm not sure what exactly I need to do to position the transmission where it should be.
here on the east coast it has been raining for a few days do i won't be getting under the car but is there anything you want specifically or close up from the engine bay? hit me up via pm and ill snap some pics in the morning
 

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05 FXT
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I'm wondering if some of the issues stem from the front subframe drop that's in the foresters. Have either of you guys removed that? I'm curious if that would resolve some of the above issues...
 

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08 BMW X3 3.0si 6MT X-Drive
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329 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I think it's just the opposite - I think the transmission sits too high in the Forester, and possibly needs some shims in the transmission crossmember to allow it to sit a bit lower. Something near the top of the transmission hits. I'm sure you could resolve it with Group-N mounts, but I don't want to have to put up with the added NHV.
 

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08 BMW X3 3.0si 6MT X-Drive
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329 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well, you were right...we shimmed the engine mounts to get the drive shaft straighter, and it fixed the knocking. The neutral sensor had to be swapped over from my 5spd in order for cruise to work. The spinny noise was a dustplate that got banged, scraping a rotor. Almost done here!
 

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2007 Forester XT Sport
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407 Posts
Oh and do you think if you didnt shim the rear to get the shaft to not hit, you would have not had the issue up front?

Because I will just fire up the die grinder and shave the frame back a little so it doesnt hit in the back.
 

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08 BMW X3 3.0si 6MT X-Drive
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Discussion Starter #14
Dave,

We shimmed it at the drive shaft mount ahead of the rear crossmember. It's probably not a good idea to grind the rear sub frame...just use a decent bolt or two/three to shim both sides of the drive shaft mount. That's not a load bearing piece (it's got bearings in it to allow the shaft to rotate freely, and has some play in it). The issue that I had up front was unrelated to the rear mount. Shimming the rear straightened the drive shaft a bit, and shimming the front (lifting the engine) straightened out the drive shaft in the front. Two unrelated things, but ended up being necessary.
 

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I assume you were using an STi driveshaft?

The issue with the 6mt swap into the forester is really the carrier bearing mount differences from the stock foz driveshaft vs. the sti driveshaft. The sti piece sits higher up in the chassis, creating the problems that Geoff observed. The shimming of the carrier bearing is what put things back in line.

I'm assuming you didnt swap subframe/members to the sti items? I'm fairly certain that with the sti items in place, there would be no issue with using the sti driveshaft. If you don't swap the subframe pieces, then you can either use the auto driveshaft (and swap the rear mount if its an r180 swap), shim things, or weld the foz carrier mount onto the sti carrier bearing. I chose the last option because the sti driveshaft appears like a more robust/better designed piece...although the *true* option would be to change both F/R suspension members.

I have pics of the carrier differences that I could post up if anybody wants to see what I'm talking about.
 

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2007 Forester XT Sport
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407 Posts
I mean unless its hitting so hard that its physically locking the driveshaft or preventing it from bolting up, the little bit of clearance grinding you would have to do isnt going to hurt anything.

BUT, if the driveshaft isnt lining up straight, thats a bit of a different story. Then I will shim things as needed.




Garage, definitely post pics :)

Geoff, you post some pics too!

When I am done with my swap, I think Ill make a step by step swap thread, if I have time to take the pics and such. Themadscientist is coming into town to help me do the swap and tune a couple cars, so I will have a limited (well, sort of limited, he is staying like 10 days) timeframe.
 

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08 BMW X3 3.0si 6MT X-Drive
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329 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I assume you were using an STi driveshaft?
Correct. The drive shaft, tranny, and R180 all came out of the same car.

The issue with the 6mt swap into the forester is really the carrier bearing mount differences from the stock foz driveshaft vs. the sti driveshaft. The sti piece sits higher up in the chassis, creating the problems that Geoff observed. The shimming of the carrier bearing is what put things back in line.
Learned this the hard way, but again, once it was shimmed, all issues went away. It was pretty obvious that the driveshaft was sitting higher than the Forester's did...it was an easy problem to locate/rectify, but I hadn't seen it documented.


I'm assuming you didnt swap subframe/members to the sti items? I'm fairly certain that with the sti items in place, there would be no issue with using the sti driveshaft. If you don't swap the subframe pieces, then you can either use the auto driveshaft (and swap the rear mount if its an r180 swap), shim things, or weld the foz carrier mount onto the sti carrier bearing. I chose the last option because the sti driveshaft appears like a more robust/better designed piece...although the *true* option would be to change both F/R suspension members.
Yes, we did swap subframe/crossmembers to the STi items. Even with that done, we still had to shim the engine subframe so that it pushed the engine up a bit, otherwise the driveshaft not being straight would lead to it not being happy and making some knocking-type noises.


I have pics of the carrier differences that I could post up if anybody wants to see what I'm talking about.
I think Dave's got a good idea...we should try to piece together all of our info to have a comprehensive SG swap thread.

It does need to be mentioned that the neutral sensor in '04 and under cars is different than '05 and newer...so us '04 guys have to swap over the neutral sensor, too.

Oh, and the Forester (at least the '04) has a different starter, so an STi starter is needed if the STi flywheel is used.

Dave - I'll try and get some pics next time the Forester's on a lift (likely this weekend for its aluminum control arms)
 

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2007 Forester XT Sport
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407 Posts
I know I should know this but

*** is the black 3 wire sensor up by the bellhousing on top, a couple inches forward of the dipstick?? In the car it would be on the passenger side.


As for the starter, funny enough, I have 2 JDM version 7 STI starters :lol: I have had one in my toolbox for a couple years now.
 

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08 BMW X3 3.0si 6MT X-Drive
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329 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Dave - That's probably the speed sensor. You should be able to reuse yours if you like. You want to cut the 6-wire harness, remove the 6-speed harness, and plug your old 5-speed harness into the tranny, then that harness will plug into your car just fine. You'll have two wires left over...wire those into your DCCD controller.
 
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