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Registered
05 FXT, LGT
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67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some help brainstorming what the problem might be. I have this problem happen 3 times now, and done some things that I thought woudl fix the issue, but then it happened again with my 2 year old little boy in the car with me. That was stressful!

Anyway, here's what I've seen happen. It's only happened so far in city driving. After some time it feels like I'm pulling something huge and the car just doesn't want to go until it completely stops and will not move. Engine runs fine. When it gets in this state, there is a groaning/creaking sound when you try to move using the engine that sounds like it's coming from the right rear. Last time this happened it was towed home on a flatbed using sleds. The right rear and left front wheel would not spin, but the right front and left rear would spin just fine.

This has a 6 speed transmission with DCCD using a DCCD Pro and Brembo brakes with 5x114 hubs, etc.

Here's the 3 ideas I've come up with that it could be:

1. Right rear parking brake is binding and seizing.
- Why do I think this is possible: sometimes the car will not roll backward like a hill keeper and I'm not certain I ever got the parking brake adjusted properly or with the correct cable even during the swap. The right rear needed a new cable and the left rear did not.
- Unknowns: - would this problem cause the opposite corner lockup like this?

2. Right rear caliper is hosed
- Why do I think this is possible: used brake calipers. Who knows what could be wrong with them. They don't exhibit any other reason to be causing problems though. I actually can't think of anything that would cause the caliper to seize and then free up.

3. Center differential issues: I'm not 100% convinced I've got the DCCD Pro hooked up and working properly. I only drive it in Auto mode and the light does increase in intensity based on throttle, just as it should. But maybe I hooked it up to the tranny incorrectly. If not connected properly, it may not be commanding the right mode and the center diff is overheating. This is all purely speculation because I'm not sure any of those ideas make sense. Could also just be a bad center differential. It is a used transmission, of course.

Any ideas? Something I haven't thought of? Ways to confirm or deny any of these ideas?

At this point any kind of mental assistance might help.

Thanks,

Kris
 
2017 2.5i Fozy CVT
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1,283 Posts
Fix the brakes,rebuild calipers, pay attn to all slide pins with Sil-Glyde silicone brake grease, after cleaning. The rubber bushings on lower slide pins swell.with regular synthetic greases. Then caliper jams up.
Do all calipers and that will get that chore out of the way for a good 30000 miles.

Check the E cable as well for smooth operation.

That eliminates all the least costly fixes, should you need to then concentrate on the swapped in trans.
 

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Registered
05 FXT, LGT
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67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the input. One thing that has me confused though. The Brembos don't have rubber bushings on the slide/pad retention pins. Am I missing something?

Are you thinking the pad is binding on the pin, or one of the rear pistons is binding on release?
 
2017 2.5i Fozy CVT
Joined
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1,283 Posts
  • The rubber bushed pins, if you have any, bind in their respective bores when the bushings swell from using incorrect grease. That has the effect of freezing the pads/ impeding them from retracting away from the disc.
 

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2011 Forester XT Slush box
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128 Posts
Could a faulty wheel speed sensor be triggering the ABS module and locking a wheel? Or a defective ABS module not able to cope with the different hubs?
 

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Registered
05 FXT, LGT
Joined
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67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Could a faulty wheel speed sensor be triggering the ABS module and locking a wheel? Or a defective ABS module not able to cope with the different hubs?
I dunno. I wonder if such a thing would trip a DTC. I'll have to check.
 
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