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Premium Member
2004 Forester XT
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937 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read that there is a service plug near the throttle body on a 4EAT which I can use to stop the flywheel from turning when I remove the crank pulley and that I can hold a large screwdriver or allen key there between the teeth.

I believe that you can remove the intercooler to see it, but I read another post where someone removed the intercooler and couldn't find it.

Could someone tell me the exact location please?

Please stay on topic, I don't want to start talking about the crank pulley tool now.

Thanks
 

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2007 FSTI and X 6 MT
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22,252 Posts
I have read that there is a service plug near the throttle body on a 4EAT which I can use to stop the flywheel from turning when I remove the crank pulley and that I can hold a large screwdriver or allen key there between the teeth.

I believe that you can remove the intercooler to see it, but I read another post where someone removed the intercooler and couldn't find it.

Could someone tell me the exact location please?

Please stay on topic, I don't want to start talking about the crank pulley tool now.

Thanks
Attached is a few pics of this plug and its location. It is on the engine and just pulls directly out.
 

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Smooshed FOTY 2011
2005 Lifted 2.5 XT 5-Speed MT Dual-Range
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5,732 Posts
Yeup, there's a rubber plug to the passenger side of the throttle body that you can take out. Kind of a pain to get to, but you can see it once you take off the intercooler. I stuck a large, long screwdriver into the teeth to keep it from spinning (i've done this on an 04 4EAT and my 05 XT, and an 08 STi)

Another thing you can do is put a socket on the crankshaft bolt, use a breaker bar with a bar extention (metal pipe over the end of it). Some jack levers are large enough to slide over the end of a breaker bar as well. Spin the engine until the bar makes contact with the ground. The torque on that bolt is so much higher than the torque on the bolts connecting the torque converter to the flex plate. I've done that before as well. I also believe this is the safest way as sometimes the screwdriver can slip and mess stuff up underneath the intake. Or you snap off the end of a screwdriver ruining a screwdriver.
 

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Premium Member
2004 Forester XT
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937 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the help folks. I appreciate it. If I can't spot it based upon the pics and descriptions here I'll pop back in. I'll also try the alternate method.
 

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Premium Member
2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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2,138 Posts

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Smooshed FOTY 2011
2005 Lifted 2.5 XT 5-Speed MT Dual-Range
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5,732 Posts
Problem with that it it turns into a two person job. Versus sticking a screwdriver in the flex plate teeth or just using existing tools such as a socket and breaker bar to hold the engine from turning over while breaking loose 4 bolts.
 

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Premium Member
2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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2,138 Posts
Problem with that it it turns into a two person job. Versus sticking a screwdriver in the flex plate teeth or just using existing tools such as a socket and breaker bar to hold the engine from turning over while breaking loose 4 bolts.
Which 4 bolts are you referring to?

My understanding is that the crank pulley is held on with a single 22mm bolt that goes through the center of the pulley into the crankshaft, torqued to 96 ft/lbs. The OEM pulley has four holes in it expressly for the purpose to accept a pulley tool to hold back with while loosening/re-torqueing the bolt, without risking damage to the flex plate and/or potential broken screwdriver mishap as described in Bobby's post above. Re-torqueing to 96 ft/lbs should be an easy, risk-free one person job using the pulley tool.

BTW, one person can break the bolt lose with the pulley tool;

1. Turn the crank clockwise until the four holes in the pulley are situated in such a way that the pulley tool can be inserted with the end of the tool/breaker bar and cheater bar resting on the floor on the left side. This will securely hold the crank from turning CCW while loosening the bolt.

2. Place 22mm deep socket on bolt, attach breaker bar/cheater bar and apply needed torque with both hands and body weight to break it loose.
 

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Premium Member
2008 Forester X Premium 5MT
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8,064 Posts
Problem with that it it turns into a two person job. Versus sticking a screwdriver in the flex plate teeth or just using existing tools such as a socket and breaker bar to hold the engine from turning over while breaking loose 4 bolts.
You just rest the handle of the tool on the ground, frame rail...
 

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2010 Turbotek tuned XT auto
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337 Posts
I have had luck just using the starter to break the bolt free. Use a long break bar, brace it against the frame and bump (keyword bump) the starter, :woohoo: bolt loose. My subaru dealer showed me this trick.
 

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Premium Member
2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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2,138 Posts
I have had luck just using the starter to break the bolt free. Use a long break bar, brace it against the frame and bump (keyword bump) the starter, :woohoo: bolt loose. My subaru dealer showed me this trick.
In a pinch, these "tricks" will work - you can use this "trick" to get the bolt loose, then use the screwdriver-in-the-flexplate "trick" to tighten it to the required torque setting. But IMO, neither trick is without risk of damaging parts (flex plate teeth and/or starter). I would only resort to them if I was truly stuck.

In the scope of the cost of the parts needed to do the 100k TB service - not to mention the time and effort - 50 bucks for a tool to do the job without having to resort to risky tricks is IMO well worth it, especially considering the amount of $$ you are saving doing the job yourself. Besides, I don't think any self-respecting motor head can have too many tools! :mob:

Of course if you have a MT, this is a moot conversation - put the car in gear, have someone stand on the brakes and loosen/tighten the crank bolt as needed. Obviously, the drive train and brakes can easily handle the torque needed to deal with the pulley bolt.
 

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2007 FSTI and X 6 MT
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22,252 Posts
The tricks do work as I have used them myself but I prefer to use the correct tool for the job. 1 person can use the wrench tool and break loose the 22mm bolt. I've done it many times.

Good topic guys, lots of valuable input to solve the problem.
 

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Premium Member
2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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2,138 Posts
Brian, knowing my luck if I tried the starter-bump trick to loosen the bolt, the socket would slip off the bolt and go flying through the radiator. :shake:

BTW, once the fans are removed, I am cutting a piece of heavy corrugated cardboard to cover the core of the radiator, just as some basic protection. I was going to completely remove the radiator, but there appears to be enough room to work with it in place. That said, over the last 43 years of hobby auto mechanics, I've found out the hard way how easy it is to damage radiators.
 

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2008 Forester X Premium 5MT
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8,064 Posts
Take it out, 2 bolts, 2 lines, hoses and you can leave the fans on it.

The added working room is well worth it.
 

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Premium Member
2007 Forester XT 4EAT-VTD
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2,138 Posts
Take it out, 2 bolts, 2 lines, hoses and you can leave the fans on it.

The added working room is well worth it.
Since I'm already draining the cooling system to install a new water pump and refill with fresh anti-freeze, this makes sense. Good to know the radiator/fans can come out as one piece - thanks!
 

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Premium Member
2004 Forester XT
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937 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Wow, the thread really expanded. Lots of posts. Thanks for all of the help so far. I'll remove the TMIC and put some pics up. Hopefully you all are around when I do so the car doesn't stay down for too long.
 

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Premium Member
2004 Forester XT
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937 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am about to do this job now. I hope you all are around. Also, a lot of emphasis was put on removing the pulley, but I don't see any mention of how to tighten it. This is the cobb pulley, This does not have the 4 bolt holes like the OEM one.
 
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