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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, new to the Forum. I haven’t found the exact size for both the front and rear speakers in my 2019 sport with base audio(6.5” lcd, no HK) was wondering what you have switched the speakers out with. Not looking to do an amp, just basic speakers for a little upgrade. My 2017 impreza sport with base speakers sound a whole lot better than my forester. Thank you all!
 

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2012 Forester X Auto
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40 Posts
I am very pleased with the sound of my Morel speakers. I chose the Tempo Ultra Integra model because they work well without an amp. Detailed sound, good imaging. In general it is best to avoid very high end speakers if you are not running an external power amp, most high end speakers require more power to sound their best.
Not sure if you have a 4 or 6 speaker system. If you have separate tweeters in front, go with a component set. If you retain the stock front tweeters and use coaxials in the doors it will result in confused imaging and often a harsh sound. It's best to have like frequencies emanate from a single location. Hope this helps.
 

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19 Forester cvt
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73 Posts
Not sure if you have a 4 or 6 speaker system. If you have separate tweeters in front, go with a component set. If you retain the stock front tweeters and use coaxials in the doors it will result in confused imaging and often a harsh sound. It's best to have like frequencies emanate from a single location. Hope this helps.
From comments elsewhere I'm of the impression the speakers in the dash are full- or mid-range rather than tweeters. Don't know because I have the Base (with Fosgate upgade). The front door speakers project quite well in this case. Almost sounds like there are dash speakers anyway. And the echo up off the corner of the windshield has be be tricky. On the other hand, the Fosgate's tuning most likely is optimized for the 6- rather than 4-speaker situation, although the balance across the spectrum is fine as it is with 4.
 

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2018 Forester
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149 Posts
Hi I started with the Subaru upgraded speakers both tweeter and coaxial kits:
Tweeters-Part Number: H631SFJ101
4 speaker Kickers: Part Number: H631SSG000
They do sound allot better than the cheap stock ones.
It was only the beginning to my sound upgrade though.
Kenwood DMX7705S was next.
teamed up with Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier
and Rockville SS8P 400 Watt Slim Under-Seat Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer Sub+Amp Kit,
I still kept the Kicker upgrades as they max at 60 and 90 watts RMS.
Running 45 watts to each coaxial and the sub is self powered 400 watt under the passenger seat.
Be warned the speaker upgrade will tempt you for even better sound.
 

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Sahuarita, Arizona USA 2018 Forester Limited
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@ stilup, did you do the speaker swap out yourself? If so were you able to swap out the door speakers without having to remove the entire door panel? I did swap out the dash tweeters with no problem but am worried about removing the door panel for the Kicker door speaker upgrade..
 

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Sahuarita, Arizona USA 2018 Forester Limited
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The H631SFJ101 I see as a Subaru OEM part? Those are OEM but not stock?
Kicker speakers are an upgrade from the stock speakers and sold by Subaru as an "accessory", hence the OEM Subaru part number.
 

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2019 Forester Sport CVT
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636 Posts
From comments elsewhere I'm of the impression the speakers in the dash are full- or mid-range rather than tweeters. Don't know because I have the Base (with Fosgate upgade). The front door speakers project quite well in this case. Almost sounds like there are dash speakers anyway. And the echo up off the corner of the windshield has be be tricky. On the other hand, the Fosgate's tuning most likely is optimized for the 6- rather than 4-speaker situation, although the balance across the spectrum is fine as it is with 4.
How do you like that Fosgate upgrade?

Cornwallis, you should really consider the Rockford OEM upgrade. I think this is the best bang for your buck. $350 and you get two 6x9s and an amp. Good price here. https://parts.bestbuysubaru.com/p/S...osgate-Audio-Upgrade/73276974/H630SSJ000.html

You can do all the work yourself. If you are not planning on running an amp, then you should stay away from generic speaker upgrades. The speakers will likely be underpowered and you will not be happy. I suggest you stick with the Kick OEM or Rockford OEM upgrades whish were specifically designed for this car. Any other speaker sets will likely need an amp to sound good.
 

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I've got the Touring trim with the HK speakers and, I believe, separate amp under the passenger seat. I'm finding the sound a bit fatiguing and am looking for speaker upgrades. I'm been looking at HAT and Morel--any other thoughts or opinions on these as a good HK upgrade?

Also, while I don't want to go down a rabbit hole with the upgrade, I understand that sound deadening material can make a big difference. Yes or no? If I do this, can you offer a few tips (what material, highest priority places to put it)?

Thanks!
Andrew
 

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I've got the Touring trim with the HK speakers and, I believe, separate amp under the passenger seat. I'm finding the sound a bit fatiguing and am looking for speaker upgrades. I'm been looking at HAT and Morel--any other thoughts or opinions on these as a good HK upgrade?

Also, while I don't want to go down a rabbit hole with the upgrade, I understand that sound deadening material can make a big difference. Yes or no? If I do this, can you offer a few tips (what material, highest priority places to put it)?

Thanks!
Andrew
theres a dude here that upgraded with HK speakers. They came across a problem since the radio was fitted into canbus. If one speaker wasnt working, the whole system went out. for some reason, im unable to find his journal...huge mods on his 2019

about deadening, there was a recent discussion on diyma.com about deadening being 'useless', and it was actually a great read distinguishing the difference between controlling resonance/reflections vs car noise deadening. even just reading the first few pages, lots made sense.

oof, that link looks like a spam ad. Haha
 

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2019 Convenience / EyeSight CVT
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I went with a Infinity 3.5" coax in the dash and Infinity 6x9 coax in the front doors. Rear door speakers were left stock as the seats are always folded down. This was a considerable improvement over the original miniscule drivers. The mid-range is fuller and finally a modest amount of bass without adding amplification. No new wiring required just adapting the front door speaker mounts. Quite happy listening at mid-point volume 19.
 

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2019 Forester Sport CVT
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636 Posts
theres a dude here that upgraded with HK speakers. They came across a problem since the radio was fitted into canbus. If one speaker wasnt working, the whole system went out. for some reason, im unable to find his journal...huge mods on his 2019

about deadening, there was a recent discussion on diyma.com about deadening being 'useless', and it was actually a great read distinguishing the difference between controlling resonance/reflections vs car noise deadening. even just reading the first few pages, lots made sense.

oof, that link looks like a spam ad. Haha

I think I may be that dude. Here is my modz page. https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/my-2019-subaru-forester-sport-let-the-modz-begin.792005/

That post is one mans opinion. There are a bunch of knuckheads on that site. I read a bit of the postings and see nothing convincing.

I have invested a ton of time and money into applying sound deadening materials and mats in this vehicle. It has made huge improvements on a quieter ride and more important improved audio sound quality. Where I notice the biggest difference is in three places.
1. Tap on any door panel and it sounds dull. There is no metal ping or noise accociated with vibrations in the metal.
2. Improved sound quality. The 6x9s in the door move a lot of air and this will vibrate the untreated metal in the door. This creates unwanted noise and rattles that competes with the speaker iteself, especially at higher volumes.
3. Many cars with high end stereos sound great when you sit in it with the windows up. But, on the outside these car will rattle like hell. Treating the metal panels (and license plate) will stop these vibrations. My car sounds as good on the outside as it does on the inside. It takes work to make this happen. And I feel it is critically important.

I am not sure what proof he needs. Sound deadening material does more than quiet the ride. It removes and absorbs metal vibrations. Despite all the material I added, I still have one nuciance spot that tends to rattle on deep bass notes. That is the panel with the gas tank filler. This panel is hard to treat because there are so many points of rattle.

If this stuff did not work, then why does every winning car audio vehicle use it?! Also he make a point that if you want a uite car, then buy one. The $80k cars he references are in fact using tons of sound deadending materials, mats and panels which isolate the road and motor noise. Just because the cars do not use the traditional butyl sound deadening material does not mean it has no treatment at all.

Andrew,

My opinion is to add deadening materials. There are many brands available. They all work. Some work a little better that others, but not by a huge margin. Choose what you can afford. I like Dynamat and found a good deal on the Dynamat Extreme Bulk Pack on ebay for about $160. That was a good value to me and the material is easy to apply. I aalso have some Stinger mat and something I bought from Best Buy in the doors. So, my car has several brands, but all have similar properties. Once I started getting serious with the application I used Dynamat because I bought the huge Bulk Pack.

As for best areas to apply, the Dynamat website has some good suggestions on which areas to treat in a logical order. If you do not plan to treat the whole car then I suggest you treat all four doors. Then play a heavy bass song and locate rattles by walking around the outside of the car. As you find those spots, treat those areas. Keep doing this until you feel satisfied. Again this approach is to improve sound quality of the audio system more than to quiet the ride.

I like to listen to loud music, when I do, I don't hear the road noise even before I deadened the panels. :) For me, sound deadening material improves the overall sound quality as much as it makes for a quieter ride.

The first post on page 10 has my recommended list of areas that i thought made the biggest difference.

Below is the short list. There is a full description in my blog.
Here is my recommended short-list of preferences for audio (first priority) and road noise (second priority)
Front Doors
Rear Doors
Floor boards
Cargo area with fenders
Roof
Hood
Rear Gate
Front fenders


Again, Dynamat has a good description of this as well. Adding material to the hood did not do that much to quiet the car or improve the sound quality. A lot of work and cost with that treatment, and I would suggest treating other areas before that one.

Visit this page, Dynamat Xtreme Information . The download gives you there suggested order of adding the materials.
 

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I think I may be that dude. Here is my modz page. https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/my-2019-subaru-forester-sport-let-the-modz-begin.792005/

That post is one mans opinion. There are a bunch of knuckheads on that site. I read a bit of the postings and see nothing convincing.

I have invested a ton of time and money into applying sound deadening materials and mats in this vehicle. It has made huge improvements on a quieter ride and more important improved audio sound quality. Where I notice the biggest difference is in three places.
1. Tap on any door panel and it sounds dull. There is no metal ping or noise accociated with vibrations in the metal.
2. Improved sound quality. The 6x9s in the door move a lot of air and this will vibrate the untreated metal in the door. This creates unwanted noise and rattles that competes with the speaker iteself, especially at higher volumes.
3. Many cars with high end stereos sound great when you sit in it with the windows up. But, on the outside these car will rattle like hell. Treating the metal panels (and license plate) will stop these vibrations. My car sounds as good on the outside as it does on the inside. It takes work to make this happen. And I feel it is critically important.

I am not sure what proof he needs. Sound deadening material does more than quiet the ride. It removes and absorbs metal vibrations. Despite all the material I added, I still have one nuciance spot that tends to rattle on deep bass notes. That is the panel with the gas tank filler. This panel is hard to treat because there are so many points of rattle.

If this stuff did not work, then why does every winning car audio vehicle use it?! Also he make a point that if you want a uite car, then buy one. The $80k cars he references are in fact using tons of sound deadending materials, mats and panels which isolate the road and motor noise. Just because the cars do not use the traditional butyl sound deadening material does not mean it has no treatment at all.

Andrew,

My opinion is to add deadening materials. There are many brands available. They all work. Some work a little better that others, but not by a huge margin. Choose what you can afford. I like Dynamat and found a good deal on the Dynamat Extreme Bulk Pack on ebay for about $160. That was a good value to me and the material is easy to apply. I aalso have some Stinger mat and something I bought from Best Buy in the doors. So, my car has several brands, but all have similar properties. Once I started getting serious with the application I used Dynamat because I bought the huge Bulk Pack.

As for best areas to apply, the Dynamat website has some good suggestions on which areas to treat in a logical order. If you do not plan to treat the whole car then I suggest you treat all four doors. Then play a heavy bass song and locate rattles by walking around the outside of the car. As you find those spots, treat those areas. Keep doing this until you feel satisfied. Again this approach is to improve sound quality of the audio system more than to quiet the ride.

I like to listen to loud music, when I do, I don't hear the road noise even before I deadened the panels. :) For me, sound deadening material improves the overall sound quality as much as it makes for a quieter ride.

The first post on page 10 has my recommended list of areas that i thought made the biggest difference.

Below is the short list. There is a full description in my blog.
Here is my recommended short-list of preferences for audio (first priority) and road noise (second priority)
Front Doors
Rear Doors
Floor boards
Cargo area with fenders
Roof
Hood
Rear Gate
Front fenders


Again, Dynamat has a good description of this as well. Adding material to the hood did not do that much to quiet the car or improve the sound quality. A lot of work and cost with that treatment, and I would suggest treating other areas before that one.

Visit this page, Dynamat Xtreme Information . The download gives you there suggested order of adding the materials.
yea you are the dude! haha

the knuckleheads you speak of are those competitors. all speaking about reflection, which you mentioned too.
Most of the competition cars they do use are much older and do not have oem deadening. Most modern cars are deadened where necessary to have that quiet ride.
riding the 2019 myself, road noise with oem tires on premium, bridgestone ecopia i think, is really low already.
with normal level listening, i can hear the speaker hiss while on the freeway. granted, the oem system doesnt have the quietest ground noise level.

Curious if you can take a db meter to your car, and a buddy with the same model that hasnt been deadened on the same drive since you have deadened your car.

i think for road noise, mlv will probably make the biggest difference with that noise that is similar to deadening, if you wana to suppress some of the road nose through the door panels.
carpeting the plastic on the inside of the car also helps, dash carpet, etc.
Tires will make a huge difference, thats the direct contact with the road, which creates road noise

all these recommendations from us are def something to look into and play around with.

@Sdcerreta were you able to get a dsp in your system? i re-read your journal, not sure if i missed it, but didnt see it. did the HK prevent you from using dsp?
Thats where im headed with my premium, non upgraded speakers. Hopefully i wont run into the problem you did with the whole system cutting out.
i just bought a dayton 408 dsp since its the cheapest out there for what its capable of doing (time alignment, active crossovers, phase control, independent gain control, etc), AND! the dsp can be tuned via phone rather than laptop!

and also, not going for a disrespectful response, but i have been told that i sound... argumentative. i will state my knowledge as is.
i like having an open discussion and disagreement always comes learning. =)
 

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This is great info. I have already gone over your blog--it is the reason I'm looking at HAT speakers. I'll start reading the Dynamat site and slowly getting myself up to speed. I think this will be a slow, long-term project for me.

Apart from HAT, what speakers would you steer me toward? I am looking for sound quality (I don't shake the car) and can spend some decent bucks (I want to improve on the HK speakers, after all), but don't want to pay nose-bleed audiophile $$$.
 

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Ugh. I've been reading your blog more carefully and am now at the point where you are suggesting that HAT may not have the sensitivity I need, considering that I just want to upgrade speakers and not the amp (I guess...right?). I was all excited about buying HAT speakers and plugging them in, but now...?
 

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2019 Forester Advance CVT
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I have Kicker 43DSC350 in the dash. These sound great, I put some bass blockers on them.
I have Rockford Fosgate 6x9 Punch 3 way coax in the front and Pioneer 6.5 inch 2 way coax in the back. Some door deadening and powered by Pioneer FH-9400DVS head unit. I am not interested in subwoofers, just wanted better speakers over stock. While the headunit puts out about 22watts RMS it is enough for everyday joe like me.
 

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2019 Forester Sport CVT
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636 Posts
Frijoles,

I am using the Rockford 3.zixty DSP which also has a robust line level converter. I needed this. The problem with the HK system is that you cannot remove this amp as it runs CANBUS and other electrical functions.

As the signals leave the HK amp they are crossedover, so you have to use a DSP and line level converter that is capable of summing the signals and basically resetting all the crossover points to Full range. This is why the other guy was having some problems with a direct replacement 6x9 in the door and it won't play the full range signals.

I think the non-HK systems are easier to modify. But, the HK system is challenging.

No reason to test the road noise for me. I can tell teh difference and I am happy. Too difficult at this point to make soem measurements. If someone else here is willing to post some numbers I am happy to post mine. Won't be perfect and there can be various in technique and meters, but it is a simple place to start.
 

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2019 Forester Sport CVT
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636 Posts
Ugh. I've been reading your blog more carefully and am now at the point where you are suggesting that HAT may not have the sensitivity I need, considering that I just want to upgrade speakers and not the amp (I guess...right?). I was all excited about buying HAT speakers and plugging them in, but now...?
I fired HAT and my audio shop. I had a blown speaker and they basically blamed me for blowing it. They agreed to replace it, but I was dissapointed in this level of customer service and instead returned their proiducts and moved on. I think they are fine speakers, but I expect high quality customer service to come with HAT prices and for that reason. luv them! (I wonder if the new site has tight language filters like the old site :).

I am now using Critical Mass speakers and amps. I am so impressed!!! I have never heard anything this good. I actually want to enter this car in a competition. Hard to find nowadays but I will keep looking.

Cmass has very good sensitivity, but still not quite as high as the stock HK. I think that is why they sound so loud. Nonetheless, quality should prevail over volume and if you change out the front door and front dash speakers with similar sensitivities and you find yourself listening at volumes of 25 instead of 20, then that seems fine.

My recommendation is to do some shopping. Stay above 91dB sensitivity and when you go to install only put in one speaker and use your balance adjuster to hear the volume difference. Again, if you just need to dial up the volume 5 points or so, to get a match that shoudl be fine.

There are a lot of people interested in this, so please post your pics and findings if you get some success.
 
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