[Ed M]

I just purchased a dash cam for my '19 Forester base. I read through several forums but really did not find what I'm looking for. I plan on mounting it right under the non-auto dim mirror or off to the right side a bit and then running the power supply wire down to the 12V power supply. Looking for tips on how best to hide and/or secure the wire so it won't be so noticeable. Don't want to hard wire it or tap into Subaru wiring since that's out of my comfort zone; just want to be able to plug it into the 12V power supply while driving. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Ravendarat]

You can tuck it under the headliner, all the way over to the pilar, tuck it around that and then pull the weather stripping out so you can run the wire down that channel to the bottom of the dash then just use zip ties to secure it under the dash and over to the center console. The weather stripping just pushes back into place.

 

[grantnet10]

This isn't my video, but is basically what you need to do. Hard wiring isn't complex by any means.

 

[2015espy]

When I installed my cam, I routed the cable (make sure you have a long cable) up the mirror channel and in the headliner going to the passenger door, under the dash and into the console. There, I have a dual USB charger coming off the cigarette lighter for power to the dash cam. The entire routing took approx 1 hour. Before you start, make sure the cable works with the cam, so that your quest was not in vain. Also, the only parts that I loosened were the mirror channel and the pillar cover. I did not have to do anything with the console.

 

[OutbackJon]

If you want an easy plug-and-play installation, you can find dash cam power cords that use the OBDII connector to supply power. Route it like the video above, and just plug it in.

Alternately, there are kits that will just tap into the fuse block under the dash. No wires to cut, just use an empty fuse spot that has power in when your car is in ACC/RUN or that has power all the time, depending on if you want the dashcam to record when you are parked.

 

[Buzzbomb]

On my wife's Tribeca, I tucked it under the headliner and down the A pillar, under the dash and along the center console to the power port in the center console.

 

[FozzieBalou]

Much like everybody else ...

I have a similar cam to what you have pictured. I mounted just behind the mirror so that it's not in my line of sight and has a good view out. It's tucked right up against the mirror base. NOTE - I do not have Eyesight so you may have to be down just a bit.

Then I tucked the wire to the same cover used for the power to the mirror (compass, auto dimming, HomeLink).

Then I tucked the power cable along the front edge of the headliner and then down behind the A-Pillar trim. NOTE - be careful to tuck the wiring BEHIND the airbag module and also be careful of the wiring. You don't want that going off on you.

Then I used one of those "add a fuse" tap kits that just plus into the fuse box. You have 3 choices - plug into an unused fuse location (there are probably a few) and then you have to choose which type of circuit - the "always on" or those that only have power when the key is inserted or in the ACC or ON positions. Look at the owner's manual to find what fuse does what circuit. If possible, try to choose a circuit that doesn't have a lot of regular draw (like the radio) and instead find something that only has draw when you're using that feature (like the 12-Volt/cigarette lighter).

 

[aleekat]

Recommend this flush mount power USB for the 12v. Has 2 ports, 1 for Dashcam, 1 for regular phone charging. Beats the bulky charger.

 

[bman400]

You can tuck it under the headliner, all the way over to the pilar, tuck it around that and then pull the weather stripping out so you can run the wire down that channel to the bottom of the dash then just use zip ties to secure it under the dash and over to the center console. The weather stripping just pushes back into place.

+1 on that technique. I did that for my 2014 Mercedes ML 350 Bluetec. I did the tap a fuse for my 2001 Subaru and 2013 Nissan Leaf. I may convert to tap a fuse for the Mercedes one day.

 

[zcrow]

I pretty much have the same camera and I used that video in a previous comment. Ended up taking about 20 minutes to do. I would suggest getting some of those double-tap fuse holders. Makes it easy to just piggyback on an existing fuse that way. Also, it is better if you use some trim removal tools when removing the panels. They won't scratch the plastic. But other than that it is pretty easy.

I mounted the camera to the left of the mirror, and tucked up on the pattern of dots on the windshield behind the mirror. No problem with Eye Sight.

 

[OutbackJon]

Just a note of caution. When using fuse taps, make certain that you have installed them in the correct direction!!!

If you install them backwards, you'll be drawing your power through both fuses, potentially overloading one fuse.

 

[Botnik]

Just a note of caution. When using fuse taps, make certain that you have installed them in the correct direction!!!

If you install them backwards, you'll be drawing your power through both fuses, potentially overloading one fuse.

Second paragraph above is incorrect. Looking at the image above, the blade marked "accessory/device side" does not connect to the upper right fuse socket. If you install the fuseholder rotated 180 degrees into the fuse panel, you will not get power flowing to your additional accessory, with or without a fuse installed. Also, no current will flow through the additional fuse. There is no "overloading" of any fuse any more than if the fuseholder is installed in the correct orientation. Easily verified by the continuity function on your meter.

Also, the Lumision instructions for selecting the fuse in step 3 is conceptually incorrect. Sure the fuse has to pass the current required by the accessory, but the purpose of the fuse is to interrupt the current before the current exceeds the current-carrying capacity of the attached wire. The maximum current rating of the fuse is determined by the current rating of the fuseholder and the downstream wiring to the accessory.

 

[Botnik]

I purchased a dual-channel dashcam and external battery shortly before Christmas and am just getting around to looking at getting it installed. I just cut up the wiring and soldered up a couple wiring harnesses today, but will wait for drier weather to put it all into the car. I would not put the wiring into the weatherstripping, because wouldn't that mean any time you open or close the door, you'd be rubbing the wiring? The wiring should be protected, not subject to mechanical agitation. Online you also see people running wires under floor mats or carpeting, right where people put their feet!

If you don't want to be removing plastic trim pieces, you may have to live with some of the wire being visible, or having someone do the install for you. There are adhesive clips that you can stick to the inside of the windshield, and you can stick these along the edge of the windshield and put the wire in there, but the best way to hide the wiring is to take plastic trim pieces off.

 

[Botnik]

it is better if you use some trim removal tools when removing the panels. They won't scratch the plastic

I've never had trim removal tools, but looked at getting some for the dashcam install. The local shops are out of stock of the sets I would want. I could order a set online but I now have my harnesses built and (weather permitting) I'd probably have the dashcam installed by the time the tools arrived, and then I wouldn't need the tools any more.

A friend said this set for $26 is nice

VViViD Auto Trim Panel Removal Tool Kit with Trim Clip Plier Set Car Door Dashboard Wire Terminal and Stereo Removal Instruments 19Pcs Pry Tools in Carry Bag, Chains, Clamps & Hooks - Amazon Canada

VViViD Auto Trim Panel Removal Tool Kit with Trim Clip Plier Set Car Door Dashboard Wire Terminal and Stereo Removal Instruments 19Pcs Pry Tools in Carry Bag in Chains, Clamps & Hooks.

www.amazon.ca

but for $26 he wonders what the quality is like. That got me wondering. If the purpose of these tools is to avoid damaging the plastic car parts, do the tools necessarily have to be made of softer plastic than the car parts?

Looking at that set, I'd probably only ever use 2 or 3 of the tools.

 

[zcrow]

I guess the main point is that by using metal you risk scratching things. You could probably use something else that is plastic, or really pad a metal tool with something else. I ended up buying a set of these and they have come in handy for removing other panels and popping out those nylon connectors holding panels on. For the dashcam I did use a screwdriver, and I did leave a scratch even though I was really careful. Hence my advice.

 

[FozzieBalou]

RE: TOOLS

When it comes to the tools I have, I've got some el-cheapo ones from online, some more solid ones from Harbor Freight and a few metal ones.

I've found the el-cheapo ones work well for bigger trim pieces and allow for that leverage to "pop" a panel off. They will have some flex and - honestly - the tips do bend and deform so that can limit how useful they are.

The heftier ones from HF are a more solid plastic and still have a bit of give, but the ends don't bend and deform, keeping them solid for longer term use. They're also more helpful when trying to remove the compression "pin" type of fasteners.

Then the metal one is what I use for most of the under-hood and under-body trim panels held in by those same pin type fasteners where a scratch in a plastic panel is a non-issue for it never is seen.

I've seen some pretty complete kits online (like Amazon) with up to 30 pieces (or more?) and those will be more than you'll probably ever need, but...

 

[OutbackJon]

@Botnik - No, if you install the tap backwards and have fuses in both spots, current will run from the Accessory/Device side, through the original fuse, then through the add-on fuse to your dashcam. (Or whatever accessory you have attached to the tap.) That puts the current for the new accessory running through both the original fuse and the add-on fuse. The current for the new accessory will follow the green path I have marked, while current for the original accessory will follow the red path.

 

[Botnik]

green path

Ah, thanks for correcting me. I was being sloppy with my mental accounting of the paths.

 

[Botnik]

I had a bit of time today so I started looking around to figure out where I'd put the dashcam battery. Under the passenger seat was a candidate but after taking things out and vacuuming I saw how dirty it gets down there, and the battery has connectors and switches on it that aren't really dirtproof or waterproof. So for now the battery is in the glove compartment. The ring terminal for the negative side of the battery charging cable had heatshrink too far up (it came from the manufacturer like that) so I cut some of the heatshrink off. I'll put the dashcam itself into the car in the coming days.

 

[Ed M]

Thanks to all who replied to this discussion. I ran the power cord up and pushed it into the crease at the headliner, over to the A pillar slipping it behind the cover, down around and under the glove box, and behind the console cover into the power supply in the console. Always powered on when ignition is on as I wanted. Didn't want parking mode due to battery drain.