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Zap! Fry! $$$!It’s a fact of electronics that when power is removed from a coil of some sort (such as in a relay), the collapsing magnetic field induces a current spike in the opposite direction of the original flow of electricity. It’s called inductive kick. Though brief, this spike can be of significantly higher voltage than the amount that was originally there, and it can puncture sensitive electronics that might have been a part of the coil’s drive circuitry. Things like those expensive sealed modules.
Try this in your garage some night: Hook up a relay to a source of power, shut the lights off, and then remove one of the wires. Big spark!
Possibly. I'll be imposing on a friend's shop so I'd like to minimize my time there. I'll try to snap a few pics here and there but don't expect a documentary. I'm heading there tomorrow. It's over an hour drive and we have some rally cross event organizing items to discuss too so could be a long day.Any chance of you taking a few instructional photos on how you do it please?
Um, no. DRLs have a purpose. Why disable them?While you have the dream team assembled, can you guys also look into deactivating the DRLs on factory LED headlights? 😁
Usually is a resister pack disconnect on the incandescent ones, but on the LEDs not sure if pulling the DRL pin in the connector is enough or it more is required...
They do have a purpose, but the way Subarus are wired you always have the option of DRLs. If you leave your lights switched on, they go out when you power off the vehicle, and then come back on when you start the vehicle.Um, no. DRLs have a purpose. Why disable them?
We probably won't have any time to look into it. That said, there is a 10A fuse labeled "DRL" on the dashboard fuse panel, #23. Have you tried pulling it?They do have a purpose, but the way Subarus are wired you always have the option of DRLs. If you leave your lights switched on, they go out when you power off the vehicle, and then come back on when you start the vehicle.
I see your concern, but I hope to explain how lights at certain times is also a safety risk.
I always drive with my lights and yellow fogs on as silver cars "disappear" at dawn and dusk.
That said, I enter facilities where I am expected to turn off my lights for safety reasons (not blinding guards at military bases, for example) and also entering my garage is more dangerous due to the amount of glare.
It's not taking away anything, rather it's adding capabilities.
We're way off topic here but I looked at the wiring diagrams and there are two configurations: responsive and non responsive. Looks like the responsive lights use the #23 fuse and a relay but the non-responsive ones don't. For those, it's a direct line from the BIU to the light housing on pin #5. It's a purple wire. I'll ask my colleagues but I would think just removing that wire would do it?Yup, still worked. One of the more active people on here posted his rework of active headlights (steerable) and identified a DRL wire, but haven't pulled that out of the plug yet.
Other years they found removing a leg on a relay did it, but there are so many sensitive electronics, it makes me reluctant to start experimenting.
No worries. If you guys discover something in the process of your work, be cool if you shared it. I have the faith the internet will solve it eventually, just tired of explaining to military police why I blinded all of them... LOL
So, it's as simple as connecting to this wire?Success! Worked like a charm. I didn't take any pictures while working because: A) I forgot my phone at home, and B) my hands were completely covered in grease while working on it because I had the car under-oiled to deal with the ridiculous amounts of road salt they spread around here and you can't not get dirty working in the engine bay and fender areas. Very messy.
I'll take some pictures and maybe an electrical diagram when I take it all apart again. One of the new driving lights has a broken connector so I'm getting a warranty replacement. C'mon USPS, get it together! Hasn't moved in four days!
But in summary, yes, you can use the light blue wire in the diagram above on the headlight connector to trigger aux lights with the hi beam switch but you need to use a sensitive relay that's isolated. Do not use a typical automotive relay. The D1D40 relay worked for me. I'm sure there are other options. FYI - we measured the current on the blue wire when the hi beams were on it's only 300mA and 12v. It's most likely canbus.
Looks like it. Bottom row, second pin from the left. The wire looks more white than blue on my car.