[commonme]

@auntiesuebee I think it's because with the others you mentioned, people understand what they are being offered and most don't require any technical knowledge. With mechanical repair techs, most don't have enough knowledge about the item and have to trust the repair person. We all know there are shady techs out there in all of these professions. I have seen some first hand. Like any profession, most are honest and trying to do what is right and best overall, but the bad apples get more attention.
In the early mid eighty's, I saw a note to put 4 coil springs on an early 70's Dodge Magnum. The problem? Torsion bars on front and leaf springs on rear. This was to a co-worker at an auto repair shop that had taken it to a different one for a battery problem because it was under warrantee there.
Bottom line is I think it is simply a level of understanding and required trust issue.

 

[Fibber2]

It leaves me scratching my head wondering why folks only seem to get their dander up over the upsell at auto repair shops.

Rather simply. People understand "pants", making it easy to say NO! Cars are a complex, expensive mystery, and the thief Service Writer makes it so damn convincing that the sky will fall if you the ignorant customer doesn't address this situation now!

I know that you understand the difference....

 

[FelineFreddie]

The average automobile knows (hopefully) how to drive their automobile, not how it works or how the different parts interact.

Most folks know how to use their smartphones, but have no idea how they’re assembled or what makes them function.

However…They do know how their clothes function and interact, and how their dinner should look.

I would also add that, if everyone did understand the inner workings of their vehicle, there’d most likely be far less needless work done on their cars, and a lot less dishonest repair shops…

 

[Wangle]

Did you get the old parts? My dealer did a recall service and also did one of their helpful 21 point inspections, which showed that my pads were at 3mm. I checked them myself at home and they were 7mm. So I would assume dealers are lying liars until proven otherwise.

I had a Dealer tell me once that my original tires were at 5/32 at 28k miles. But good news, this dealer now sells tires! At 38k I ran into a sale on some Michelins, So I had the tires checked again. The worst one was 6/32.

 

[Wangle]

I work at a Subaru dealer and brakes are not covered under warranty. They are considered a wear and tear part, similarly, a clutch(manual transmission car) is not covered under warranty.. Now if a part is defective that is a different story and it would be covered.

Brakes, even if just worn, ARE covered under the 3 year 36k warranty. Unless something has changed in the last year. It is normal now to lose your rear brake pads first. VDC utilizes rear brakes even when you don’t know it is happening. For 40 years I would replace the front brakes two to one over the rears. Now it is the other way around. Great comments on cost for DIY and great tips on Rock Auto shipping. Did a brake job at 55k on my daughter’s 2016 Forester. Rotors, pads, fluid flush, $300. Went with coated rotors because the originals were very very rusty. They still look great!

 

[Vishnu]

I think resurfacing rotors is a waste of time. I read that the warping can start by keeping your foot on the brake pedal when stopped and the rotors are hot from some downhill torture braking. The pads act as insulation and keep the section under the pads hot. The rest of the rotor cools disproportionately and the metal warps. If true, then all rotors are doomed. Of the number of rotors I had resurfaced in my early motoring days, about zero stayed true. I shop for cheap ones with good warranties.

And before you lay down the long green for rotors next time, get a Harbour Frieght cheapo 1/2" torque wrench (cheap but surprisingly accurate) and loosen then retighten the lug nuts to specification. That has usually fixed many of my "warped" rotors. Mismatched torque wil pull the top hat of the rotor enough to get the thumping started. Oh, and release the torque wrench setting to zero before storing. Everyone should own one.

 

[commonme]

@Vishnu I agree about turning. A local shop down the street from me said it's not worth the money, as it typically cost at least nearly the same as a new rotor and then you're very near minimum thickness if they can be turned.
From my observations, the new ceramic pads (standard on any new vehicles I've seen the last many years) wear the rotors along with the pad. The upside is the pads last much longer. If you're paying labor, the system may be less expensive overall (cost per mile). It would have to be checked and confirmed and would vary by vehicle.

 

[TTiimm]

I agree with the two posters above re resurfacing rotors.

Turning rotors is a vestige of when hubs were integrated with the rotor. Remember when we had to remove and sometimes repack the bearings every time we removed the rotor? These were easy to chuck in a lathe because the bearing race centered the rotor.

Modern hat style rotors are more difficult to chuck in a lathe properly. There's a good chance that if a shop actually has a lathe, someone who doesn't know what they are doing is going to mount it incorrectly and ruin it.

Everyone is free to do as they see fit but for someone who insists on having rotors turned, I recommend a machine shop rather than a parts store.

 

[FozzieBalou]

Depending on where you take your car for service, usually a brake job will include replacing pads and resurfacing rotors - at least at any of the brake shop I've had work done at, it's a part of the package price.

As for all those "I got my rotors and pads from __ and did the job, easy-peasy" (or something like that), please remember that there are those that do not have the space, the time, the mechanical skills or the physical ability to do brakes, oil changes, tune-ups, etc., etc., etc.. So the dealer or another shop is the only way to go... Then the issue becomes finding a shop that is capable, trustworthy and can wok on a Subaru. As we all know, Subaru models are often a bit more complex to work on; sort of like some higher-priced European models.

Remember also that some of the prices are for a package deal (the 36K mile service) and it includes a few different "jobs" in the single price. So the 185 for the first line item is for all of the parts being replaced.

I'm planning for a 60K mile service on my 2014 Forester... it's about 650. Just plugs alone is about 480, the included oil change is normally 80-something, swap out both air and HVAC filters (probably 50 each); at this point it's paid for vs breaking the jobs out. Plus they do the brake fluid flush/replace and the front and rear diff services. So it's a no brainer to get it done at the dealer. Oh and I get a loaner as well.

So for some, getting the work done at the dealer is a necessary evil.

 

[RFulton]

Thank you for sharing the invoice. The cost and comments from a dealer are typical in my opinion. NY conditions must vary a lot from Arizona. We get 60k from pads and can resurface rotors once or twice. Have a nice trip

 

[pingber]

WHO resurfaces rotors anymore? REPLACE them. And that 60K service is a complete waste of $$$.

 

[drosenthal.jkc]

Depending on where you take your car for service, usually a brake job will include replacing pads and resurfacing rotors - at least at any of the brake shop I've had work done at, it's a part of the package price.

As for all those "I got my rotors and pads from __ and did the job, easy-peasy" (or something like that), please remember that there are those that do not have the space, the time, the mechanical skills or the physical ability to do brakes, oil changes, tune-ups, etc., etc., etc.. So the dealer or another shop is the only way to go... Then the issue becomes finding a shop that is capable, trustworthy and can wok on a Subaru. As we all know, Subaru models are often a bit more complex to work on; sort of like some higher-priced European models.

Remember also that some of the prices are for a package deal (the 36K mile service) and it includes a few different "jobs" in the single price. So the 185 for the first line item is for all of the parts being replaced.

I'm planning for a 60K mile service on my 2014 Forester... it's about 650. Just plugs alone is about 480, the included oil change is normally 80-something, swap out both air and HVAC filters (probably 50 each); at this point it's paid for vs breaking the jobs out. Plus they do the brake fluid flush/replace and the front and rear diff services. So it's a no brainer to get it done at the dealer. Oh and I get a loaner as well.

So for some, getting the work done at the dealer is a necessary evil.

Excellent critique of the average Joe Subi owner who does not have a fully stocked garage or the knowledge or the desire to work on his car.

 

[HerSubaru]

$480 to replace the spark plugs in a Forester? Mamma Mia, I'm in the wrong business! It isn't even two hours work, and you can buy the correct plugs from fleabay for almost wholesale. I think I paid $54 for a set of four, genuine NGK with the correct part number.

Air and HVAC filters run maybe $25 for genuine OEM parts, takes five minutes to change the air filter, a little longer and a bit of cussing for the HVAC filter.

These cars are EASY to work on.

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida

 

[Newtosubaru2019]

For ppl handy with mechanical stuff or tools, spark plugs and other changes would be no brainers. As for me I don’t know anything abt cars then I can’t do it. My 60k service is also up so I’d have similar cost like @FozzieBalou
I can change the filters and that’s abt it.

 

[auntiesuebee]

$480 to replace the spark plugs in a Forester? Mamma Mia, I'm in the wrong business! It isn't even two hours work
<snip>

Pretty much every shop is looking for good techs

At most dealer shops, that 2 hours of labor is $300+ of that $480.

 

[rodconstel]

It seems to me that some of you might want to find a private mechanic and inquire about maintenance items such as those noted in this thread. In my case, when the 60,000 mile service interval occurred, I bought OEM plugs and other items on line and had my mechanic install them at a fraction of the cost that's being reported here.

 

[eddiecny]

@FozzieBalou
60k service for $650?? What state are you in? My local dealership service center is charging almost $1000. I don't have the itemized list, but I recall it includes, oil change, spark plugs, brake fluid.

 

[[email protected]]

And diff oil change . I do CVTF but that’s just me. No need to start a debate.

 

[rodconstel]

In addition to the 60,000 mile service noted in post #76, my private mechanic recommended a differential oil change at 30,000 and at 60,000 miles. I bought the oem oil online and he put it in and it wasn't a big deal or a big expense. As far as the CVT fluid change, my mechanic was equivocal on it so I called several dealers and they were all over the map on their answers. One said 30,000 while another said 60,000 with a third stating 90,000. Subaru had issued an extended warranty for the cvt for owners of the 2014 Forester for 10 years or 100,000 miles. Subaru of America told me the same thing they told "Mr Subaru" on youtube: if you change the fluid during the warranty period it voids the warranty. I've got 75,000 trouble-free miles on the Forester now and I'm not messing with the cvt.

 

[[email protected]]

It says in their own maintenance and warranty booklet that change CVTF under extreme conditions such as towing and others. I can’t see how they can void the extended warranty because you changed CVTF properly. Just my humble opinion.