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Discussion Starter #1
At a traffic light, got rear ended hard. Other car, Mitsubishi Galant, the front is a mess. Subaru has a damaged rear bumper, can see the spare tire well is bent. Didn't investigate further, there may be more serious damage. The police came and filled out an accident report, it takes 10 to 14 days for it to be available. The cop told me the other driver has Progressive Insurance, great. I called Progressive and opened a claim. They called me back the next day to tell me they have no record of insurance for that plate number. Did the cop get scammed, how can that be? Now I have to wait for the accident report and then decide on next steps. It may be most cost effective for me to replace the bumper and knock out the spare tire well dent than to file on my own insurance.
 

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At this point I would report it to your insurance company and let them pursue whether the driver at fault has insurance or not. Just because you report it to your insurance company doesn't mean you are filing a claim. Make that clear to your insurance company. If your insurance company discovers that the other driver is insured, you can pursue your claim directly with his/her insurance company and leave your insurance company out of the claims process. If the other party is not insured, get a couple estimates on your own and decide whether or not it is worth filing a claim with your insurance company.

The above assumes you are not in a no-fault state.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update - the cop wrote out the wrong license plate # on the summary he gave me. I hadn't noticed until last night, when I looked at the picture I had taken of the cars. Called their insurer and gave them the correct plate #, and that one has coverage. Still don't have the full accident report, so things are moving slowly. The car is driveable though. The rear underside of the car is all bent up, the rear lift door is ok but the spare tire is pushed up and the metal running across the back of the car where the rear door closes is bowed outwards. On the one hand I hope the car is not totalled, but, I don't want a major cut and weld job either.
 

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On the one hand I hope the car is not totalled, but, I don't want a major cut and weld job either.
Modern body work shouldn’t be a worry if you get a repuatable body shop.

Do not be afraid to make your insurance company work for you. You pay lots of money just for that very thing. Get your value out of your money!😉

The one issue you must also consider is the devaluation of your car. Seconds before the crash, the car had “X value”, after the crash that car had a “diminished value” (the term to use to the insurance companies). You lost money due to the fact it was hit and now everyone will probably know it via Carfax. They will try to tell you they can’t determine that until you sell, you want loss at the time of the crash. Be firm.
 

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@kallsop -
If you are worried about an insurance rate increase, that should not apply when you are rear ended at a light.
It doesn't count against you in an accident where it is not your fault, regardless of which insurance pays.

You should not have to wait for a police report - Just call Progressive with the correct license number and they will get an adjuster out to assess the damage.

Fixing it yourself is a bad idea.
Your car needs quite a bit of work and parts.
If you start doing work yourself you could hose your chances for a full recovery.
 

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Modern body work shouldn’t be a worry if you get a repuatable body shop.
Is this true? Or is it that with today's cars having more things like crumple zones, it would be best to try to sell a car once it has had body work done to it? Any car that I had driven after body work was ... off, and didn't drive right. They were all unibody cars though, and fully repaired by insurance.
 

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Something to consider...If you file a claim through your insurance company, a deductible may apply even though you were not at fault. Check with your insurance company on that. They may be willing to subrogate and recover your deductible. If you file a claim with the driver-at-fault insurance company, there will be no deductible.

Firetrux makes a real good point about diminished value, especially since your state (CT) is a diminished value state. You're entitled to it by law but may have to fight for it. Read up on it here:

https://www.cga.ct.gov/2007/rpt/2007-R-0011.htm
 

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^^^ - It depends on where the damage was... the hit to the rear is pretty much a cosmetic event.
If the drive train is involved... Not so much.. but automotive repair has also come along way, and with the jigs available, the outcome is a lot better than back in the day.
In the case of the OP, the car should be fine after repair.
 

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Something to consider...If you file a claim through your insurance company, a deductible may apply even though you were not at fault. Check with your insurance company on that. They may be willing to subrogate and recover your deductible. If you file a claim with the driver-at-fault insurance company, there will be no deductible.

Firetrux makes a real good point about diminished value, especially since your state (CT) is a diminished value state. You're entitled to it by law but may have to fight for it. Read up on it here:

https://www.cga.ct.gov/2007/rpt/2007-R-0011.htm
They usually recover your deductible if it was determined you were not at fault for the accident. That's what happened to me. I paid the deductible out of pocket but got a reimbursement check a few weeks later after the investigation was completed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the advice. I already am expected a "diminished value" tussle but I'll do my homework. Trying to set up adjuster schedule now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update - all fixed. It took 2 weeks to get the police report, another week for the other drivers insurance company to contact their driver, then 3 weeks in the body shop. The car was all done, then they drove it and it rattled. They hadn't noticed the exhaust and muffler were bent, so got those replaced too. Everything OEM parts. Good as new. Also, I had them do an oil change, they had to remove the rounded off oil drain bolt, LOL. The car on a lift, and a welder, I am sure it was no big deal for them. At the next oil change, super carefully remove the oil drain bolt and discard, fit a Fumoto oil drain valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry, no other 'before' pictures. There's no need for any 'after' pictures, it looks new. Actually better than at the time of accident, because the new exhaust tip looks more polished. Total repair cost was about $5900. Not cheap, but the repair shop is first class all the way and everything replaced is OE part. They do collision repair work for the local Mercedes dealership. (Hartford, CT).
 
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