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2017 Forester XT CVT (High Torque)
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I did this swap on my 17, and I worked everything up according to the attached diagram. This is what the grey connector on the headlight looks like after rewiring:

522359


Then I obtained two used 84077SG000 DRL relays and modified them like mentioned above. It’s diagramed in this photo, where the zeroes indicate where to cut. White/red gets taped off, and the arrow indicates where the black wire gets tapped onto the white wire on the other relay.

522360


Everything works exactly the way it does on the Touring model, including DRLs right on the day and dim with headlights. What a great upgrade! Thanks for all the help.
 

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2018 Forester MT
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The 2014-16s are different in that they do not have the DRL relay module like the 2017-18s. However, while researching this for my 2018 I found that for the older model you need a relay (N.O.) and 9006 socket for each side to plug in to the high beam bulb harness connectors. In addition to the new relays, you must remove the DRL resistor to ensure each relay stays off when the resistor would otherwise be engaged, after that the existing relay will now connect the grounds of your new relays when the BIU triggers the high-beams. Power is supplied by the existing high-beam/DRL circuit, and the bright-C led will activate in both cases where the DRL or high-beam is on (there is another wire that controls the dim-C led).

Text Line Diagram Floor plan Technical drawing
 

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The 2014-16s are different in that they do not have the DRL relay module like the 2017-18s. However, while researching this for my 2018 I found that for the older model you need a relay (N.O.) and 9006 socket for each side to plug in to the high beam bulb harness connectors. In addition to the new relays, you must remove the DRL resistor to ensure each relay stays off when the resistor would otherwise be engaged, after that the existing relay will now connect the grounds of your new relays when the BIU triggers the high-beams. Power is supplied by the existing high-beam/DRL circuit, and the bright-C led will activate in both cases where the DRL or high-beam is on (there is another wire that controls the dim-C led).

View attachment 528511
Thanks for your help man.I will buy use relay then try it.And right now I have :Low beam,high beam , turn light,parking .C-light only 6v at my low beam,work great at parking.


从我的 iPhone 发送,使用 Tapatalk
 

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Perhaps i could enlist some help to review what i've done and locate my mistake...
Victim: 2018 XT premium.
Crime: Install used oem subaru 17/18 led headlights.
So, having already swapped newer 18+ led headlights (very similar setup and wiring/functionality) into our 16 wrx, i figured this shouldnt be too bad.
However, upon installing what i thought were properly re-pinned lights today, i have no high beams/bright c-lights. My turns, markers, and low beams all work fine.
So, back to the drawing board. Read through this thread, tried to account for everyone slightly varying experiences..
Im fairly versed in how each light works, i.e. dual brightness c-lights, led w/ moveable shield for low/high beams, etc. I know which pins do what through bench testing.
My pinout mimics most everyone elses, with the top row holding the #1 (empty, followed by (thin) red, blue, and black wires. The 2nd row is green/red, green, black/white, and yellow (thin) wires. I tested both lights while wiring them and all functionality seemed good.
I have since modified one of my DRL relay boxes, but that didnt change anything. Prior to that i could get my c-light to swap to full bright when the high beam was applied (but not the shield to raise). Now i dont have that either.
Stumped.
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
 

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2017 Forester XT CVT (High Torque)
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That pinout sounds incorrect. The top row should be blank, white (not thin red), blue then black. See my post above (quoted below).

Also, are you sure you modified the DRL relay correctly? The black wire coming out of the second relay should get tapped over to the white wire on the other relay. It needs to come out of the second relay, then attach to the white wire on the second relay, see how my diagram shows that wire being snipped and then swing over and tapped into the white wire?

I did this swap on my 17, and I worked everything up according to the attached diagram. This is what the grey connector on the headlight looks like after rewiring:

View attachment 522359

Then I obtained two used 84077SG000 DRL relays and modified them like mentioned above. It’s diagramed in this photo, where the zeroes indicate where to cut. White/red gets taped off, and the arrow indicates where the black wire gets tapped onto the white wire on the other relay.

View attachment 522360

Everything works exactly the way it does on the Touring model, including DRLs right on the day and dim with headlights. What a great upgrade! Thanks for all the help.
 

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OK.
lets see. I chose the thin red (from the headlight) because in my bench testing with that as a positive, and one of the black grounds, it would operate my high beam shield. The thin blue (again, from the headlight) on the other hand is my bright c-light function.
Which white wire are you talking about/from where?
I have found that with an oem-wired DRL box connected, and the red in the #3 pin position, i get my high beam shield to function as normal when i pull or push the stalk. In fact that #3 position also has power when the DRL's should be on, so i could just tire the red and blue both into that slot for fairly proper functionality. Basically i'm just lacking separate power for the DRL and HB. my #2 pin never seems to have power. not sure what its functionality is.
However, if i stick the modified (i believe min is the same as both pictured above) DRL box in, as soon as i turn on my high beams it blows the fuse.
Just to check, are you leaving both relays plugged in after re-wiring? Or does the brown one need to come out?
Wire Technology Electrical wiring Cable
 

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2018 Forester MT
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Looking at your photo, it looks like you have the wrong end of the black wire tapped, the end coming from the red relay spade terminal should be tapped to the white wire, and the other end from the connector can be cut/removed similar to the white/red-stripe wire and associated mini-spade terminal in the center red relay contact. That black wire goes to ground so the fuse is blowing due to the direct short with the white DRL wire. After changing it around, the red relay will effectively connect the white wire to the blue output wire when your high-beams are triggered, which will lead to the headlight connector high-beam trigger.

My pinouts match yours and are based on the photos by JediSamReye, on the main headlight connector I have blank, thin red, thin blue, thin black on the top row and green/red, green, black/white, and thin yellow on the lower row. I was under the impression that the white, white/red, white/yellow, and white/black wires controlled SRH, on mine these dead-end on the secondary unused connector alongside the yellow, green-white and black leveler wires.
 

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Yup, thats the pinout i have, to a T.
On the other hand, you're right, I have the black wire the wrong way. Feed both relays from white, not one relay feeds white and black.
In the interim, the wifey wanted the mess in the garage cleaned up, so i reverted my altered DRL box back to stock. Then I tapped HB and c-light-high together and dropped them in slot #3 on both lights, and buttoned her back up. Works good, all lights are on when they should be, and even if you have markers on in park (at night for example), then drop it into D, the c-lights brighten like they should. I have auto headlights, not sure how many of you do, (my '15s didn't, not sure if its a trim level thing or a MY thing), so its nice to see that playing nicely with the new lights too.
Alternate wiring option i guess.
But thanks for all the input, you guys have been invaluable.
...and not i've got to get back to and oil pump replacement on the next suby in line... :(
 

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2018 Forester MT
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Glad you got it working, I didn't learn until later that the "high-beam" was really just a shutter rather than a dedicated LED so thank you for confirming that the HB and C-light can just be tied together at pin 3 and that it works with the auto dusk/dawn lights (no option for them on the manual Premium trims). Personally I didn't want to splice wires anywhere other than inside extra relay modules either (I kept the unmodified ones attached to the halogens in storage in case I need to revert back) but this should make it much easier for future modders who'd rather not mess with them and just splice at the headlight connector
 

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Yup, both in this car and my 16 wrx ('18 led oem headlight swap), i was able to just re-pin with a minimum of splicing (same case as these), and leave everything on the chassis side unmolested. Going into the project i was pretty excited for the end results, as i had already used essentially the same light on the wrx and was super wowed by the light performance there. Not to mention they look better and have sweet donkey c-lights. Win-win-win scenario.
 

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17' FXT
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So I did this swap; however, my high beams are not working ? Can I just move the red wire from the #2 slot to the #3 slot and get the highbeams?
I did not change the wiring on the relays- could that be the problem?
 

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How do we adjust the low beam angle on those 2017+ Touring headlamp? Is there a knob behind the led low beam to turn? I just found that the oem spec is pointing way too low !!
 

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2017 Forester XT CVT (High Torque)
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How do we adjust the low beam angle on those 2017+ Touring headlamp? Is there a knob behind the led low beam to turn? I just found that the oem spec is pointing way too low !!
There is a dial that can be adjusted with a small socket, 10mm I think. I use a small ratcheting socket to adjust them up or down. It’s white plastic with a hexagonal head.

These LED headlights have a very hard cutoff. Too low and you won’t be able to see very far up the road. Too high and you’ll be blinding other drivers. Find a flat spot with a wall or something and aim them so they are pointing slightly down (there are instructions in the owner’s manual).

Here is a photo of the back of the headlight (right side headlight shown) with the adjustment knob circled:

 

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2017 Forester XT CVT (High Torque)
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So I did this swap; however, my high beams are not working ? Can I just move the red wire from the #2 slot to the #3 slot and get the highbeams?
I did not change the wiring on the relays- could that be the problem?
I know this is an old reply, but I thought I’d chime in. I got some used DRL relays and modified them. I haven’t figured out how others might be getting the high beams to work without that modification. With the changes that I made to the DRL relays the high beams work as expected, and the C-lights are bright with DRL or high beam, dimmer with low beams, just like a stock Touring model.
 

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There is a dial that can be adjusted with a small socket, 10mm I think. I use a small ratcheting socket to adjust them up or down. It’s white plastic with a hexagonal head.

These LED headlights have a very hard cutoff. Too low and you won’t be able to see very far up the road. Too high and you’ll be blinding other drivers. Find a flat spot with a wall or something and aim them so they are pointing slightly down (there are instructions in the owner’s manual).

Here is a photo of the back of the headlight (right side headlight shown) with the adjustment knob circled:

Thanks for the info, i was able to adjust the LED low beam! Now I can see better at night but not blinding the on-coming traffic! :)
 

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17' FXT
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I know this is an old reply, but I thought I’d chime in. I got some used DRL relays and modified them. I haven’t figured out how others might be getting the high beams to work without that modification. With the changes that I made to the DRL relays the high beams work as expected, and the C-lights are bright with DRL or high beam, dimmer with low beams, just like a stock Touring model.
I just moved the red wire from the #2 slot to the #3 slot and the highbeams work.
 

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18 base no. 18 Premium which has the same H/L from the base, yes. I can't imagine it would be any different in those trim levels. Mostly big difference when you go from 2014-16 to 2017-18..
 

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2018 2.5i 6MT
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18 base no. 18 Premium which has the same H/L from the base, yes. I can't imagine it would be any different in those trim levels. Mostly big difference when you go from 2014-16 to 2017-18..
thanks, do you know what mounting tabs are essential? seems like a lot of them on ebay have multiple broken tabs
 
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