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All, so one of my wheel studs broke and this weekend I went to replace it. Watched videos and read articles on how to do it but.... none were specific to the XT, couldn't find any. I take everything off and it turns out the brake dust shield/backing plate prevents removing full length studs and putting them in. I noticed with some Subarus the shield/plate just unbolts easily, not so with the XT.

Does anyone know of a trick or workaround to get the studs out other than taking the hub carrier off ( i think that's what its called)...?

Thanks !
 

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Oh man, I'm going to be in the same boat. I had a slight feeling ol Murphie's law would show up and Id have to get into removing a hub unit just to replace the one broken stud. But I thought it was all a bad dream. The XT makes it harder?
 

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@TDS I don't know how to do it on your model but what if you used a hole saw to cut through the dust shield? Would make any future stud changes easier as well?

Studs mainly break from over-tightening so I'm curious as to how this happened? (I've never had a wheel stud break)
 

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2017 Touring 2.5i
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t turns out the brake dust shield/backing plate prevents removing full length studs and putting them in
There should be a portion of the plate that's either "missing" or recessed where the brake calipers are (specifically to accommodate the space that the calipers take up). If the plate is present behind the calipers, you should be able to lightly hammer the plate towards the center of the car. This will provide sufficient room to fit the new wheel stud in. The caveat is that you'll have to position each wheel stud that needs replacing to this area behind the caliper.

Full disclosure. I don't have a 2016 XT (have 2017 Touring), but it would be very surprising if the design differed so greatly between the XTs and the non-XT models in this area.
 

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Studs mainly break from over-tightening so I'm curious as to how this happened? (I've never had a wheel stud break)
In 2 words, rattle guns. I've just had one replaced because it seized on being unscrewed and eventually broke after much effort. Apparently, it is not an uncommon problem with Subaru studs.
 

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@slothman yes, that would be my guess which is why I specifically state 90Nm whenever I take my Foz for any wheel related work - and I check it when returned ;-)

I have seen the use of the wrong or loose wheel nuts also contribute to breaking a stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the reply’s !!! I like the idea of slightly bending the dust shield to get enough room to slip them out and then the new one in. Here’s a newbie question - with just the one wheel off the ground, how do I rotate it to get to each stud ??? (I’m new to AWD cars).

BTW - I think the tire shop over tightened the lug nut, when I removed it, the stud broke. I just had the new Falken Wildpeak AT tires installed. Went with a slightly bigger size - they are really nice off-road !!
 

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Here’s a newbie question - with just the one wheel off the ground, how do I rotate it to get to each stud ???
Hopefully I'm wrong, but you'll need to put the tire back on and then drive the car a tiny bit to rotate the wheel to get the next stud positioned in the proper location by the caliper. It will be tedious. (I just went through this rigamarole and can verify that it totally sucks).

If you're replacing more than one wheel stud, it'll definitely be worth your while to rent a floor jack and some jack stands in order to get both front wheels off the ground.
 

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2006 Forester 5-speed manual
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I seem to recall that the differentials had 'limited slip', not 'no slip'...

With some effort you should be able to turn the wheel with the gears in neutral.
 

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2019 Forester - Touring CVT
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@TDS I don't know how to do it on your model but what if you used a hole saw to cut through the dust shield? Would make any future stud changes easier as well?

Studs mainly break from over-tightening so I'm curious as to how this happened? (I've never had a wheel stud break)
I've replaced many wheel studs back in my car repairs days - most of them I broke removing the wheel. If not me, then the stud was broken by the last guy to remove the wheel and he decided to "overlook it". It would be rare for a stud to break due to over-tightening. In most cases, the stud breaks due to the nut galling on the stud after it is loosened when attempting to remove the nut. Galling causes the nut to cold weld itself to the stud and the result is usually having to rotate the nut until the stud breaks. Once the nut is loose and has then frozen to the stud, the stud is much easier to break by rotating the nut than was required to loosen the nut initially - you can easily break a stud in this situation without even standing on a breaker bar. Unfortunately, alloy wheels usually preclude use of a torch to heat the nut red hot (enough that it may release).

A stud has great tensile strength (pull along its axis), but poor torsional strength (torque about its axis). Studs (and bolts) don't typically see much torsion, most of the torque required to loosen a nut or bolt is due to clamping force under the bolt head or nut. If you have ever have successfully loosened a small nut, but then still broke the bolt or stud due to rust/corrosion when unscrewing the nut the rest of the way, you know how easy it is to do.

Galling comes from cheap manufacturing. Galvanized nuts and studs rarely gall.
 

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All, so one of my wheel studs broke and this weekend I went to replace it. Watched videos and read articles on how to do it but.... none were specific to the XT, couldn't find any. I take everything off and it turns out the brake dust shield/backing plate prevents removing full length studs and putting them in. I noticed with some Subarus the shield/plate just unbolts easily, not so with the XT.

Does anyone know of a trick or workaround to get the studs out other than taking the hub carrier off ( i think that's what its called)...?

Thanks !
Are you doing the front or the rears? I can confirm the rears you can do just by removing the caliper and rotor. There’s enough space in between the hub and rear brake shoe to put 10mm longer studs, which is what I did. Pics of the longer stud and install here.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2015 Forester 2.5i Limited CVT
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I use DC Molykote p74 on my lug nuts. Just a light coating. Lugs nuts spin off easily. A torque wrench comes in handy. You can use any good copper anti seize paste also. Light coating.
Loctite, Jet Lube, etc. brands.
 

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2019 Forester Limited
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@slothman yes, that would be my guess which is why I specifically state 90Nm whenever I take my Foz for any wheel related work - and I check it when returned ;-)

I have seen the use of the wrong or loose wheel nuts also contribute to breaking a stud.
Any idea why your 2003 torques to 90 Nm, while my 2019 calls out 120 Nm (89 lb-ft)? I think they both use M12 studs.
 

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Thanks. Just curious. The numbers are consistent with a change from, say, a grade 5 bolt to grade 8, or whatever the ISO equivalent is. "Heavier" pretty likely the answer.
 
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