I just told you there is no difference in in viscosity (ability to flow) when engine is cold between 0W, 5W, 10W. Done trying to educate you. :cheers:oh so dont worry how oil flows when the engine is cold??
2015 - Use heavier oil than 0W20?
('14-'18)
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Can someone pass the popcorn, please
I see nothing wrong with going to 30 vis or greater, especially on older engines where clearances have increased over time.
That said, am still on a diet of 0w-20 Signature. No usage at all.
I see nothing wrong with going to 30 vis or greater, especially on older engines where clearances have increased over time.
That said, am still on a diet of 0w-20 Signature. No usage at all.
The real puzzling question, to me anyway, is why the different viscosity recommendations on North America engines and European or, not sure, the rest of the world.
While there maybe some slight component differences, the basic engine, pistons, bearings ect. surely have to be identical.
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While there maybe some slight component differences, the basic engine, pistons, bearings ect. surely have to be identical.
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It's the CAFE standards. I believe everywhere else 30 vis is called out.
I believe Japan may be like US.
I have a 15 2.5 premium with over 80,000 miles on it and use Castrol edge 0W/20 full synthetic with titanium that is designed for a hotter running engine and at every oil change it is just as full as when I filled it Also a good high quality oil filter is the real key to oil management. People hate them and people call them crap but I stay true to K&N oil filters. I have order them through amazon. Important fact here is do not ask advice at an auto parts store. Most of the time they know less than nothing.
I have a 15 forester with over 80,000 miles where going up in the weight is not a good idea every engine is different my 2.5 is not the exact same as yours.could have been assembled in the same plant in the same day and will have little differences. Externally they are the exact same but internally Unless all the tooling is checked and torque tools calibrated after every time that tool was picked up or used, and no one accept high end sports car builders and racing teams, it just isn’t efficient. Tooling wears, torques very and people get tired. Although everything is in tolerance nothing is exact. You have to find what works with your engine. There are a lot of choices out there. 2 pieces of advice don’t use an oil because it says it is the best for it and do not get advice from a chain auto parts store. Find yourself a master mechanic and befriending him. Mine said to use castrol edge with titanium 0W20 full synthetic It is designed for harder working and hotter running engine. Also a good oil filter is key to oil management. A lot of people don’t like them, they are more expensive and I have to order mine but I use K&N oil filters. Could just be luck but my oil is just as full when I change it then when I filled it. Purealator is a good one too if you don’t want to pay the extra couple bucks for the N&N just stay away from fram.
0w20 is the recommended oil in countries such as the U.S. and Australia which have fuel use standards. Elsewhere, 'heavier' weight oils are listed options. It has nothing to do with whether the engines have tighter clearances, etc, but government regulations. Subaru isn't making several different engine versions for different markets. It would be inefficient.
Thats what I figured.
Which really opens up this debate on which viscosity, if any, is better for long life engine protection.
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turboblew are you trying to get in trouble with the law here?
The difference between 10W and 20W is hardly noticeable, much less a +5 step. If I put 20W-40 in a 10W-30 container you wouldn't know by pouring it.
The difference between 10W and 20W is hardly noticeable, much less a +5 step. If I put 20W-40 in a 10W-30 container you wouldn't know by pouring it.
At -51 degrees 0w20 flows better, but if european & every where else the recommended oil was 0w20 I would agree that the engineers designed the engine optimal oil is 0w20 but when they specify other oil viscosity in other countries then I really feel like it’s more of a way to achieve fuel mileage increase than engine longevity!
So far as I can tell from an overall view, the visc designation only affects cranking with respect to ambient cold temps, and the additives only affect longevity. Like I said a few posts ago, Subie recommends 5W-30 in mine but she's sippin' on 20W-50 and there's absolutely nothing negative occurring at any time, so unless I see a bad effect as a direct result of using the wrong visc oil in something, I'm gonna declare that the recommendation doesn't actually matter.
StanF where did you get that info? I note the owner's manual for mine specifies 0w20 for the 2.5 and 5w30 for the XT turbo versions. Mine goes so far as to specify that its ok to top off with 5w30 or 5w40 but to return to 0w20 at the next oil change.
I would like to read your source because I might like to go with a bit heavier oil for more engine protection now that mine is about to hit 250,000 kms. I have used 0w20 before in my Nissans as a winter oil, but I noted that my engine would consume more oil than it would with the usual 5w30 for it.
I plan on using a block heater so I won't need the extreme cold fluidity of the oil to be as good. Mind you 5w30 Mobil 1 does flow when its cold out in my experience, and probably provides a bit more cold start protection. I will willingly accept a very minor drop in gas mileage as a result.
I would like to read your source because I might like to go with a bit heavier oil for more engine protection now that mine is about to hit 250,000 kms. I have used 0w20 before in my Nissans as a winter oil, but I noted that my engine would consume more oil than it would with the usual 5w30 for it.
I plan on using a block heater so I won't need the extreme cold fluidity of the oil to be as good. Mind you 5w30 Mobil 1 does flow when its cold out in my experience, and probably provides a bit more cold start protection. I will willingly accept a very minor drop in gas mileage as a result.
With a quick search I'm seeing 0W20 and 5W20/30/40 for the FB, which feeds my theory that weight doesn't affect longevity, only the additives do.
My EJ251 has 20W50 in it to help mitigate the known leaks, and I'm actually getting better than average mpg right now so I don't think weight even affects hp/mpg all that much, at least when it's warm.
My EJ251 has 20W50 in it to help mitigate the known leaks, and I'm actually getting better than average mpg right now so I don't think weight even affects hp/mpg all that much, at least when it's warm.
Actually I think I have found some of that info Stan about using 5w30. From what I can tell 0w20 was the OE oil type but lots of people have and do use 5w30 with no issues, and some report less oil burning.
I still cannot tell if mine is burning oil or not since I changed the oil, as I have had a really hard time reading the dipstick. And after a hard highway run, it seemed a bit lower. On my change, I took out 5 L + the filter and added 5.2 L, and over the weekend added another 400ml, and I am around the halfway point or a quarter above the low dot seems to vary but it's my target range to be halfway. It seems like a lot of oil, Nissans and Hondas have used about 4L for a change.
Still, the good news for me with half a jug of syn 5w30 is that I will use that to top off if needed and it will thicken the oil ever so slightly which may prove beneficial.
I still cannot tell if mine is burning oil or not since I changed the oil, as I have had a really hard time reading the dipstick. And after a hard highway run, it seemed a bit lower. On my change, I took out 5 L + the filter and added 5.2 L, and over the weekend added another 400ml, and I am around the halfway point or a quarter above the low dot seems to vary but it's my target range to be halfway. It seems like a lot of oil, Nissans and Hondas have used about 4L for a change.
Still, the good news for me with half a jug of syn 5w30 is that I will use that to top off if needed and it will thicken the oil ever so slightly which may prove beneficial.
The trick for a good reading is to pull the DS, then wait a few minutes for the DS tube to drain out, then dip t j e DS to read.
If I am shopping, andcan find a relatively flat parking spot, I will pull it, wipe and close hood.
After emptying my wallet in Costco, I'll take reading.
It never changes, though.
If I am shopping, andcan find a relatively flat parking spot, I will pull it, wipe and close hood.
After emptying my wallet in Costco, I'll take reading.
It never changes, though.
Same here. Never changes. I drain the oil every 5k on the 5’s.
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How much do you put in to get to that fill level?. Mine is towards the lower dot. I will try leaving the dipstick out for an hour and recheck.
I check mine in the morning in the garage. Always the same be it right after an oil chsnge to right before the next one.
5.1 quarts of PUP
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5.1 quarts of PUP
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Was just reading an older thread on the 2011 and a number of people report 5.7 to 6 L when filling to get to the high mark. I don't want to overfill but from what I can tell so far I am at the low end with 5.4 or so.
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