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2015 forester
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
subaru oil change

a few questions:
1. a non-dealer garage installed a Metrostreet filter. How bad is this?

2. The owner's manual calls for filter number 15208AA160, when I called the Subaru dealership they said the correct number is now 15208AA15A
what is the reason Subaru changed their part number? What exact the difference in turns of spec between 160 and 15A?

3. The manual says 5.1 quarts oil, I did not measure more precisely in the past, but this time it looks like I have to add more more than 5.1 quarts, I don't know why. Does anyone else have similar experience?

4. When I watch other people's video, they all jack up their car first. Do most people jack up their car when changing oil? Even if it were not SUV, I found that I can change the oil without a jackstand.
 

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Sahuarita, Arizona USA 2018 Forester Limited
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2,103 Posts
I find that it's pretty common for auto manufacturers to change, substitute or combine filter part numbers over time. As for Subaru oil filters:
 

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2014 Forester 2.5i CVT
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435 Posts
1. I wouldn't sweat the off-brand filter this time. BUT, maybe stick with a Subaru filter next time. Genuine Subaru filters have a higher bypass PSI setting than most filters. I believe WIX/Napa also sell a suitable filter. But really, nobody else does.

2. The 15A filter is the right one. The 160 filter is what comes installed from the Japanese factory, but is apparently only normally sold in Japan. The 15A is made in North America (by Fram).

3. The book for your 2015 says 5.1 quarts. Just buy a jug of 0W-20 full synthetic and put the whole thing in. Subarus are notorious for giving various readings on the dipstick depending on the exact location of where the vehicle is when the dipstick is pulled. For best results, check when the engine is cold and always try to have the vehicle parked in the same place.

4. I do not jack the Forester up for an oil change. There is plenty of room for me to get under there. I have a 2014 (same engine as your 2015) and a 2019 (different engine with a different oil capacity). No need for a jack on either.

When you change the oil, always replace the crush washer on the drain plug or else replace the plug with a quick-drain valve like a Fumoto. If you stick with the drain plug, use a 6-point socket, as the head is fairly soft.
 

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2015 forester
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
1. I wouldn't sweat the off-brand filter this time. BUT, maybe stick with a Subaru filter next time. Genuine Subaru filters have a higher bypass PSI setting than most filters. I believe WIX/Napa also sell a suitable filter. But really, nobody else does.

2. The 15A filter is the right one. The 160 filter is what comes installed from the Japanese factory, but is apparently only normally sold in Japan. The 15A is made in North America (by Fram).
Thank you for your answer.
2. They should use the same part number if they are the same filter, or else put this info on their website so that when I search the part number, google search will return the info.

3. The book for your 2015 says 5.1 quarts. Just buy a jug of 0W-20 full synthetic and put the whole thing in. Subarus are notorious for giving various readings on the dipstick depending on the exact location of where the vehicle is when the dipstick is pulled. For best results, check when the engine is cold and always try to have the vehicle parked in the same place.
hmm, I may need to some more research on how to read the dipstick. Do you think I should add step B below to make it more accurate?
A. Pull out the dip stick and wipe it off the oil.
B. Do you think I should wait a little longer so that the oil on the wall of the pipe will drip to the bottom?
C. Insert the stick back into the pipe.
D. Pull the dipstick out again

4. I do not jack the Forester up for an oil change. There is plenty of room for me to get under there. I have a 2014 (same engine as your 2015) and a 2019 (different engine with a different oil capacity). No need for a jack on either.
I am able to change oil for regular sedan cars. As long as your arm is long enough. In case it is too hard, I use this trick:
without jackstand

When you change the oil, always replace the crush washer on the drain plug or else replace the plug with a quick-drain valve like a Fumoto. If you stick with the drain plug, use a 6-point socket, as the head is fairly soft.
In my experience, I have used the crush washer 3 times in the past without problem. If I see any small indication of leakage this time, next time I will remember to change the washer.[/QUOTE]
 
2017 2.5i Fozy CVT
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1,283 Posts
A. Pull out the dip stick and wipe it off the oil.
B. Do you think I should wait a little longer so that the oil on the wall of the pipe will drip to the bottom?
C. Insert the stick back into the pipe.
D. Pull the dipstick out again
my driveway and street are not flat ,so when I shop, I will find a flattish spot to park in the lot, wipe the stick, shop, then measure when done and ready to leave.
So, there is plenty of time for the DS tube to drain, that way, but honestly, I think beyond 3 minutes is not going to change the reading appreciably.
Measured with engine hot, of course.
 
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