Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
2015 Forester XT Touring
Joined
·
169 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here is some feedback on the two types of subframe bushings I have tried. Perrin subframe lockdown kit bushings PSP-SUS-530 and the Whiteline subframe bushing inserts KDT938.

Went with the Perrin first but wasnt happy with how they sat when installed. My issue was when they were torqued down (~90lbs) the lower bushing squished to the point of pushing out from between the brackets and the subframe. Could not really see the top bushings when tourqed but after removal I could see they had the same issue. Couldnt really tell if they made any affect on handling over stock but there was no increase in NVH. Overall not satisfied, glad I removed them after only one week.

Installed the Whiteline inserts today and so far so good. These are inserts and not bushings like the Perrin's. The bottoms have 2 long tabs that go up into the stock rubber and the tops have a ring that goes down into the stock rubber while the Perrins are basically just thick smooth poly rings. All of the inserts are still retained in place after being tourqed and after my initial test drive.

The Whitelines definitely make the rear end feel tighter during Left/Right weight transfers and while coming on/off throttle, they compliment the Whiteline Differential bushings very very well with no added NVH. Make sure you use that lube on both the inserts and the stock rubber. Had a helluva time gettin those bottom tabs all the way in but it was well worth my time after my test drive. The Whitelines are officially here to stay.
 

·
Registered
2017 FXT Rubber Band
Joined
·
91 Posts
Overall how easy was the white line install? Can you install them with the car on the ground? Hand tools?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2015 Forester XT Touring
Joined
·
169 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Install was pretty easy, took my time and figured everything out and finished up in less than 2 hours. No lift and completely do-able with sockets 19mm and under, breaker bars, extensions and a torque wrench. Be sure to use 6 sided sockets so you dont strip anything.

Raised the rear and placed on Jackstands, loosened the two front half subframe braces 4 turns (2 bolts each) and removed the 2 center bolts on the rear half support bar brace (2 bolted to the spare tire floor). Loosen the 4 subframe 19mm subframe bolts 4 turns each and now your ready to start working ONE BUSHING AT A TIME!!! If you remove more than one 19mm bolt and not support the subframe properly you run the risk of dropping your subframe and damaging your rearend or yourself!!!

4 turns loose on each subframe bolt should be enough wiggle room to work with to get the inserts in one corner at a time, if not place a floor jack under the subframe and loosen the opposite side one more turn to get more room. Again only remove one subframe bolt at a time, you can pull down and push up on the subframe and get alot of play for the install so 4 turns should be enough.

Once you get the 19mm bolt out on one corner you can move the support brace out of the way to have a clear shot at the bottom of the rubber subframe bushing that you need to jam the insert with the long tabs up into. The tops you just reach up and over, rotate the bushing until you get ut to sit flush then you place the large metal washer back on top. Torque it all back down and re-inspect after 60 miles.
 

·
Registered
2015 Forester CVT
Joined
·
629 Posts
Install was pretty easy, took my time and figured everything out and finished up in less than 2 hours. No lift and completely do-able with sockets 19mm and under, breaker bars, extensions and a torque wrench. Be sure to use 6 sided sockets so you dont strip anything.

Raised the rear and placed on Jackstands, loosened the two front half subframe braces 4 turns (2 bolts each) and removed the 2 center bolts on the rear half support bar brace (2 bolted to the spare tire floor). Loosen the 4 subframe 19mm subframe bolts 4 turns each and now your ready to start working ONE BUSHING AT A TIME!!! If you remove more than one 19mm bolt and not support the subframe properly you run the risk of dropping your subframe and damaging your rearend or yourself!!!

4 turns loose on each subframe bolt should be enough wiggle room to work with to get the inserts in one corner at a time, if not place a floor jack under the subframe and loosen the opposite side one more turn to get more room. Again only remove one subframe bolt at a time, you can pull down and push up on the subframe and get alot of play for the install so 4 turns should be enough.

Once you get the 19mm bolt out on one corner you can move the support brace out of the way to have a clear shot at the bottom of the rubber subframe bushing that you need to jam the insert with the long tabs up into. The tops you just reach up and over, rotate the bushing until you get ut to sit flush then you place the large metal washer back on top. Torque it all back down and re-inspect after 60 miles.
Install was pretty easy, took my time and figured everything out and finished up in less than 2 hours. No lift and completely do-able with sockets 19mm and under, breaker bars, extensions and a torque wrench. Be sure to use 6 sided sockets so you dont strip anything.

Raised the rear and placed on Jackstands, loosened the two front half subframe braces 4 turns (2 bolts each) and removed the 2 center bolts on the rear half support bar brace (2 bolted to the spare tire floor). Loosen the 4 subframe 19mm subframe bolts 4 turns each and now your ready to start working ONE BUSHING AT A TIME!!! If you remove more than one 19mm bolt and not support the subframe properly you run the risk of dropping your subframe and damaging your rearend or yourself!!!

4 turns loose on each subframe bolt should be enough wiggle room to work with to get the inserts in one corner at a time, if not place a floor jack under the subframe and loosen the opposite side one more turn to get more room. Again only remove one subframe bolt at a time, you can pull down and push up on the subframe and get alot of play for the install so 4 turns should be enough.

Once you get the 19mm bolt out on one corner you can move the support brace out of the way to have a clear shot at the bottom of the rubber subframe bushing that you need to jam the insert with the long tabs up into. The tops you just reach up and over, rotate the bushing until you get ut to sit flush then you place the large metal washer back on top. Torque it all back down and re-inspect after 60 miles.
Thanks Jay for the info. Glad to hear that results are good with no added NVH. Reviews on the Whiteline site cover all installs and I suspect that the results are fairly vehicle specific for both pros and cons. As we have a 2.5i, there is no need to deal with power takeoffs, just the cornering.

GD
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top