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‘14 FXTT; '15 Legacy FB25
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So, you’re saying a 0W-20 with an HTHS viscosity of 2.6 cP is perfect? Or did you mean to cherry pick a quote that leads you to believe thicker is better for modern engines spec’d for low viscosity?

Also, which bane-brands ouls are using Grp 1 base stock these days? I‘d seriously like to know!
 

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2011 Subaru Forester
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844 Posts
The article dates back to 2009. I provided the link as a matter of interest. Use what you like in your engine. I am sticking to 5w30 instead of 0w20. Subaru says it's fine, the engine sounds better, and I lose less oil. The FB25 in mine has 261,000 kms and my interest is in prolonging its functional longevity. That said I recently noted that you can buy 0w20 in high mileage formulations now. I may try a jug in January. ;)
 

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2017 XT
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18 Posts
Quadraria10,
Whoa, thanks for that link, I think. It's like wikipedia, start looking at one thing and 2 hours later, I've read about PVD nano coatings on cylinder wall and rings, shaping the surface finish so as to hold onto oil film better. Then stumble across the Editor's corner of the "myth of 3,000 mile oil change".

Side note, through work I was able to attend some training by Mark Malberg of Digital Metrology. Surface finish and describing said finish is quite the deal. Then how you create the desired surface finish on say a cylinder wall.
 

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Premium Member
‘14 FXTT; '15 Legacy FB25
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1,042 Posts
Whoda what now? I run 0W-20 in my Legacy and 5W-30 in my FXT.
 

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2011 Subaru Forester
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844 Posts
Not to beat a dead horse, but what is the advantages one would see by running heavier weight oils? Would running 20w-50 be even better?
No, it wouldn't. Look there is lots of info about oil here and elsewhere, you can easily answer your own question. To be precise here the discussion is about 5w30 vs 0w20. If you look at the product sheets of say Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic for both weights you will find they have the exact same cold pour temperature and fairly similar viscosity indexes at cold temps. In fact, the numbers are such that the 5w30 would probably qualify under the 0w rating system.
Again for the nth time 0w20 is specified for NA Subarus as it helps them get a 0.5% to 1% improvement in fuel economy across their model lineup. In other places on the globe Subaru specifies 5w30 for the exact same vehicle made in the same factory. Lastly, in their own oil marketing sheets, they are pretty clear that 0w20 is for better fuel economy and 5w30 for those wanting a bit more engine protection. You did check those out I trust???
 

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2004 FXT / 2020 Outback Onyx XT
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1,663 Posts
You folks need to consider HTHS instead of the numbers on the bottle. After some fuel dilution and maybe some shearing, a Resource Conserving 5W-30 (HTHS <3.5) will have a similar used oil viscosity as an RC 0W-20. Have a look at the uoa thread in the 2.0DIT forum and you’ll see that most of the uoa’s on 5W-30 are actually a 20 grade. So yes, I agree with @gathermewool that it’s nonsense to claim that a 5W-30 used where 0W-20 is recommended will give you problems, and it shows that these statements are from someone that has never bothered to investigate uoa’s.

Now if you’re talking about a 5W-30 that meets ACEA A3 or C3 requirements (HTHS 3.5 or higher) then that’s a different animal entirely. Note that the 0W-30 mentioned by @slothman used in Japan is an ACEA A3 oil so it has a high HTHS and will not shear as much as an RC xW-30 and behaves closer to a 40 grade in regards to the bearings.

Personally, I’m an oil “thickie” when it comes to the EJ turbo engines, and only run ACEA A3 oils in my FXT, but I’m going with the recommended xW-20 in my new OBXT. I’m just going with a bottle of added esters. ;)
 

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2014 Forester cvt
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6 Posts
I've always added 0w20 full synthetic but I'm becoming increasing concerned about the oil consumption between oil changes. I don't know if the oil evaporates or what. Thinking I might switch to 5 or 10 weight synthetic. Any harm in doing that? :unsure:
 

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Sahuarita, Arizona USA 2018 Forester Limited
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2,345 Posts
I've always added 0w20 full synthetic but I'm becoming increasing concerned about the oil consumption between oil changes. I don't know if the oil evaporates or what. Thinking I might switch to 5 or 10 weight synthetic. Any harm in doing that? :unsure:
Are you eligible for this?:
Class Notice.pdf (settlementclass.com)
 

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2011 Forester
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87 Posts
You folks need to consider HTHS instead of the numbers on the bottle. After some fuel dilution and maybe some shearing, a Resource Conserving 5W-30 (HTHS
Now if you’re talking about a 5W-30 that meets ACEA A3 or C3 requirements (HTHS 3.5 or higher) then that’s a different animal entirely. Note that the 0W-30 mentioned by @slothman used in Japan is an ACEA A3 oil so it has a high HTHS and will not shear as much as an RC xW-30 and behaves closer to a 40 grade in regards to the bearings.

Personally, I’m an oil “thickie” when it comes to the EJ turbo engines, and only run ACEA A3 oils in my FXT, but I’m going with the recommended xW-20 in my new OBXT. I’m just going with a bottle of added esters. ;)
I just started using 0W-30 C2/C3. We’ll see what happens. It’s penzoil euro LX. 130k km on NA 2011 Forester.


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