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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like the post thread, I've got a 2015 Forester 2.0 XT Premium, my heat dropped out and is only blowing cold air. I've finally found some diagnostic manuals (thank you cardiagn.com), however, I wanted to get some advice from this forum. I should note, I'm not a gearhead by nature, but I'm handy with the steel if you know what I mean (mount up).
- I've checked all my fuses (AC Relay in the Main Fuse Box, Relay Fuses in the Compartment, but not Blower Motor Unit as I don't know how to get to it yet).
- I've checked Coolant Levels and they seem to be fine. Although from what I've read, it will raise and lower when heat expands the coolant.
- Blower Motor seems to be working as the blower fan is still working (tucked under the glove box).
- The heater control (single heat control, no dual heat temps) used to require a little force to turn it all the way to the heat side. It now spins from cold to heat without issue.

All that said, I've got a replacement heater blower motor, heater core, and thermostat. All that said, I'm hoping to get some advice on what to look at next, but more importantly, how to get to it. Does anybody have any suggestions as to what route to head down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ha, is this a 'talk to me like an idiot' thing because it's my first post? The knob on the dash?
 

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2012 SH Manual Diesel
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@bmilo It could be the blend/mix door, that is the issue.

If the knob was stiff to turn etc, and now it’s not, maybe something has broken or popped off.

Some are electrical (motor open and closes the door), some are mechanical (cable or lever mechanism).

Best to find a workshop diagram of your car system, so you know if it’s on the left or right side. Or if you look under the dash, towards the centre of the car, you may see the levers and linkages.

There are some videos on YouTube on this issue. May not be your exact model, but the idea is the same.

May just need to be cleaned, lubricated and reattached.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@Dogs Ok, I think I understand. You're thinking possibly a mechanical issue related to the Heat / Cold level. I'll look through the diagnostic breakdown to see if I can track down the potential location for it and dig in on it.
 

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Being an XT, should I assume the Heater/AC is all Auto (i.e. Climate Control)?

If so, your temp dial would be electronic that activate a servo motor, that then mechanically
528222
opens and closes the mix/blend door. So if the dial was stiff, maybe the issue just lies with the dial itself.

Otherwise check the servo motor and linkage. Item 26 (air mix actuator), in the diagram is the servo motor, that has a metal linkage arm to the blend door (blends the hot and cool air).

With the Accessories on, if you turn the temp dial up and down, the servo motor should operate. With the door arm closer to you, that is the cold position, and towards the firewall is hot.

If you need to remove the unit. At the door end of the linkage (towards the firewall), there should be a little plastic clip that you can flip over, to remove the linkage from the door lever.

There is also a PTC Heater. I assume these provide heat, when there isn’t sufficient heat from the coolant, when the engine is off, or as a drier for defrost.

I’d guess that it would be unusual to loose two sources of heat. So I might suggest the ‘control module’, or the ‘air mix actuator’.


528223
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@Dogs It's a 2.0 XT Premium, and from what I can tell Climate Control isn't an option. So I don't believe it does have climate control. It's got seat heaters and the standard 3 knobs (vent location, fan speed settings, and temperature setting).
 

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On your dial, does it show a digital number (to represent temperature), that increases or decreases as you turn it?

Does it have buttons on the face of the dial that says ‘Dual’ or ‘Auto’?

Climate control meaning, you select a desired temperature, and the system automatically (electronically), regulates the air temp to remain at your selected temp. And you can choose a different temp setting for either the driver and passenger.

Essentially just ascertaining if your mix/blend door is electronic or cable driven. I just imagine being an XT (higher model), it would have electronically controlled system.
 

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- The heater control (single heat control, no dual heat temps) used to require a little force to turn it all the way to the heat side. It now spins from cold to heat without issue.

So when it was working it took some force to turn but since it stopped working it now spins freely.This means that what ever is connected to the knob/dial has either broken or,if you're lucky,just became disconnected.Replace the part that broken or reconnect the pieces that have come apart and your problem is solved.It's impossible for us to know for sure because we can't see it so you will have to trace from the knob/dial back into the dash to find the problem by seeing what does move vs what doesn't when you turn the knob/dial.
 

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I haven't been able to attack this for a few days (work & life stuff), however I'm going to remove the dash today and attempt to trace this back through. I'll follow up in a bit.

It's definitely a manual control, no digital temp or dual temps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I started in on the dash yesterday and sure enough, I got lucky!! The physical linkage came detached. I reattached it and then placed a quick zip tie fix that should alleviate it from slipping off. I have to think there's something missing though, as I can't believe any engineer would think that's acceptable to send out a car with nothing clamping that on securely?

528431
 

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That's awesome! I'm glad you were able to figure it out!

I'm guessing there might be something else wrong. Maybe there's too much resistance?

It doesn't look right at the top. That peg looks like it belongs in the channel just below it. When the door is moved, does that eventually line up properly?
 

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There seems to be a little added resistance on the Warm side, cold is easy to get to. I had a bit of the same feeling, just from the looks of it those two items match up way to good for them to not to be connected. I'll get back in it this week and verify it. I'll follow up just for the sake of knowledge and doing it right.
 

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Yes,those 2 items do go together.Note the grease on the pin and in the channel.If there is excessive resistance,and it sounds like there is,then perhaps some fresh grease is in order.That goes for the pin and channel as well as the shaft that the main piece pivots on.It looks like grease has been running out into the inner diameter of the large hole in that main piece.It would probably be a good idea to put some fresh grease in there while you have it apart to insure you won't have to in the near future.It was probably the grease,or lack of it,that caused the need for more force to be needed to turn it which was the reason it came apart.Move those two parts by hand to see which one or both is sticking and you will know which parts truly need the grease.
 
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