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2005 Scion xA
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32 Posts
So, something interesting observed the past few days.
Ive looked at my oil level at same time of day (morning before firing up forester from overnight), nearly same ambient temperature and of course same level ground.

Over the course of probably 5 days and 2 checks...
First check was showing roughly 1/6th over the low mark(I beieve when I last did oil change bout 4k miles ago I had it just at 3/4 F mark) and I was like ... "well bummer I guss it is consuming oil after all, oh well not too bad"
Second check was, same time of day(and vehicle off entire night) , same location(in garage) 5 days later ... stick showed just over halfway ... probably around 2/3rds F mark!!
1/6th -> 2/3rds is a huge huge variance and, glad to know I actually havent lost that much oil afterall since 4k miles ago!!!
I even re-dipped the stick 2x to confirm on each check.

I can only guess ... there must be some random oil sticking around in the engine somewhere(maybe filter?, maybe heads?) and not fully draining to the pan and causing these variances, maybe these engines, being flat, dont drain as consistently as vertical engines do.
This what may have been driving me crazy on some of my checks the entire time lol!

So, I would strongly suggest that if you suspect low oil levels, give it a day or 2 (or at least a full start / stop cycles) of engine ... then recheck in the same conditions each time you check oil ... I think you will see that on at least one occasion oil level will be higher, as I have.

BTW, I dont know if it was this thread or another where I posted that I switched to Valvoline Synpower 0w-20 ... but fwiw, Ive been studying oil chemistries in the industry lately. Originally, I think I was correct about Synpower(now called advanced synthentic) having high calcium and sodium as part of its additive package ... and my first UOA reinforces that. But, I found out that a common industry trend for many oil manufactures has drastically been changing their oil additive chemistry to get the "Dexos 1 Gen 2" approval and from what I understand as part of that it means oils that allow Direct Injection engines to run a bit cleaner ... my 2nd 5qt Synpower I noticed has the "dexos 1 gen2" stamp on it and I have yet to send in a sample, but going off others "dexos 1 gen2" oil sample reports ... gone are the days of high calcium and sodium formulas. Im willing to bet my next UOA will be more in line w/ nearly removed sodium trend, reduced calcium and increased magnesium and bringing back more Moly and Boron into the mix. So far, the forester has seemed to run fine w/ both types(thats if my next UOA proves it indeed has been the new formula to match whats on the bottle) haha!
And if anyone is curious , Idemitsu oil(https://www.idemitsulubricants.com) is the OEM of the Subaru synthetic oil... in fact based off some factory subaru UOA's Ive seen(which include my own foresters factory fill of oil) has an INSANE amount of moly, as most "proprietary factory fills / break in oils" do. Heres an oil from Idemitsu which prints numbers VERY close to the factory fill my forester had: https://www.idemitsulubricants.com/zepro/0w-20 .. someones new '18 crosstrek on BITOG forums had 700+ Moly numbers on his fill using this oil: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5031513/2018-subaru-crosstrek-6075-mi-idemitsu-zepro-eco-medalist-advanced-mol#Post5031513
I think that oil is really really damn close to subaru factory fill break in, given the insane moly #'s ... which is funny because it apparently is SN approved but I cant find any ILSAC GF-5 approval for it =P which manual I believe requires as per owner manual.
Heres is idemitsu's dexos 1 gen 2 approved(and meets the 2 subaru oil requirements I mention above) 0w20 oil tho
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4768630/voa-idemitsu-zepro-eco-medalist-sae-0w-20-dexos1#Post4768630
Still really high Moly for such oil, which is a good thing =)

Can get this stuff relatively easily online.

Anywho, just stuff I find interesting.
 

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2008 2008 2.5i-2018 XT
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Calcium, sodium, won't likely make any differences with respect to use. Best way to check oil accurately in addition to being level and cold is to pull dipstick wipe once and then insert and read only once. Additional readings are not accurate bc oil is deposited on dipstick tube.

Even more accurate is to leave dipstick out over nite and insert in morning. Read only once. Put wiped off dipstick on driver seat over nite
 

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2005 Scion xA
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32 Posts
Calcium, sodium, won't likely make any differences with respect to use. Best way to check oil accurately in addition to being level and cold is to pull dipstick wipe once and then insert and read only once. Additional readings are not accurate bc oil is deposited on dipstick tube.

Even more accurate is to leave dipstick out over nite and insert in morning. Read only once. Put wiped off dipstick on driver seat over nite
I dont know if that was a reply to me, but should re-read what I stated. I measured 2x over the course of 5 days(once on day 1 and another time around day 5), same location, same angle, same off time on engine(overnight so roughly 10hrs), roughly same ambient temp ... one measurement was completely different from the other.
 

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2016 Forester CVT
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4 Posts
In regards to the OPs question on oil weight, if you live in a cold region, I would pay more attention to whether or not it was 5w-30 or not. Granted, I would consider 5w-30 to be a medium weight oil and 0w-20 would be pretty light. However, it could be a much higher contrast.

If you are using synthetic oil, you should be good with 7500 instead of 5000. I saw some mention of Blackstone Laboratories. If you are concerned, go 5000, take a sample, and send it in to them. They can give you a good idea of how much life your oil has left on it.
 

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2016 Forester 2.5i 6mt
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well this seems to have ended the same way every other thread on any forum ends, folks use what oil you like, and live with it, .................. all i know is that on my other vehicles used very hard in hot and below freezing temps, the oil psi would drop for light weight oils to 20 psi at idle and 40 at 2000 and more , to 40 psi at idle and 65 psi at hiway rpms when using 5w40 -....................... subaru engines are high psi engines, and high by pass psi,- if you run hot and fast, i suggest that you run 5w30 or 5w40 to preserve the viscos determined oil psi,............... but it is your choice,............. subaru has decided to go for cafe mandated mpg instead of greater reliability[ not the first time ;HG replacements & wheel bearings, coolant leaks] and they can be very high maintenance- .........with many weak design points ,,,,,,,,, a cult car,........... to get the good awd design system and the inherent greater front crash safety , ,i have worked on cars for over 50 years now, looked at the engines internals many times, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, cheap thin oils that loses viscosity at higher temps, or not changing oil due to long change intervals, eventually ruins engines,
What type oil did you do the oil pressure reading, I really can’t see is how a 0w20 oil especially at higher temperatures can have enough of a film especially at the main bearings, long time ago used regular 0w20 but it was-30 that year for awhile!
 

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2014 Forester 2.5i CVT
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Blah, blah, blah. Fuji Heavy Industries is either stupid or involved in a great energy-saving conspiracy. Or neither. You choose.

I choose to use the oil that is specified by FHI, which is 0W-20 full synthetic, API "SN" rated.

I live and drive where the the summer temperatures daily exceed 90 degrees F. My 2014 consistently uses about 1/2 quart in 7,500 miles (I stick to the manual-specified OCI). Currently at 50,000 miles. And if I don't sleep well at night, it isn't because I'm worried about motor oil.
 

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Wanted to add our 2019 Forester running factory 0W20 burned zero oil so far. Just performed the first oil change today at 6,000 miles. Oil level was still at upper mark on dipstick prior to the oil change. Same level it was at delivery.
 

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2016 Forester 2.5i 6mt
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117 Posts
Another one who is using 5w30 mobile 1 I don’t have a clue what weight was in it but probably 0w20 not in our car do what you want 0w20 will not be in ours
 

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We have a 2017 Mazda 3 and 2017 Golf Sportwagen. Neither burns a drop of oil — 0w-20 in Mazda 3, 5w-40 in the Golf. Previous TSX burned a quart of 0w-20 in 3,000 miles or so. Stop screwing with oil and blaming manufacturers. Use the proper weight, monitor it, change it, add if low. This forum has gone mad with oil topic, some loss is normal and isn’t worth dwelling on, large loss (quart in 1,000 miles or less) is obviously a mechanical problem. Move on, enjoy driving the car or sell it if you aren’t happy.

Stan
Stan, You are right on the money.
 

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2006
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if curious about how your oil flows at freezing or sub freeze temps... throw a couple quarts in your freezer and do a pour test. That is the most critical time for oil flow/pressure. Also the 0 weight reco is because tolerances are closer on modern engines.
As for the mileage/change intervals... the $30 spent on an unbiased oil analysis will give you a bench mark for intervals besides a broad brush OEM reco. In the instance of frequency... your oil could go 10,000 miles between changes w/ just a simple filter change & top off. Or the data could point the other way... and you may need 3000 mile intervals.
 

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2018 Forester Manual
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302 Posts
So my friend who was running 0w-40 in his Fb25 Forester started to have some issues on the cold mornings with hesitation at part throttle cruise until the engine was up to temperature. I was told that switching to 0w-20 resolved those issues.
 
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