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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a ADF Lift Kit 2 inch front and 2.5 inch rear. I also have the King Springs from Get Primitive front and rear. I just received the Bilstein B6 for both front and rear. I have scoured the internet for several hours now for some sort of Spec sheet on the Torques, but am having no luck. I thought I would post on here. I am tired it has been like over 100° degrees again here in Texas and I am tired. I have to go back and remove an axel and finish the front suspension tomorrow. I have seen some spec sheets, but the look to be for 2010 models or prezas. Does anyone have actual torque specs for Suspension Front/Rear and Brakes Front/Rear for a 2014 Subaru Forester 2.5i (if the 2.5i matters)?

I am attaching what I found, but they are NOT for the 2014 Subaru Forester from what I can tell.

Several side bars, has anyones drum brake portion of the Subaru just exploded in their drum? Mine did while I was out of cell service on a country road in Texas on my way back form the Devils River, TX. Anyways the Subaru dealer said it wasn't there fault and now I only drive with a drum on one side and no parts on the other side. Does anyone use their handbrake? I used to and I am wondering if it good or bad to not have one.

Also, I decided to replace the top hats and struts, because I am getting a lot of groaning sounds from my front end. While I was pulling and pushing on the driver side I noticed some fo the sounds coming from a recently replaced control arm. Can you grease those up some how? I don't want to replace them either.
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So one of your rear brake shoes pads broke off? And you didn't replace it? Ok.....
I have heard of them explode before, common results are because they worn out, or stuck engaged and over heated.
FYI any ware item is not covered regardless of manufacturer as it was out of their control.
Why wouldn't you replace your drums? It's a DIY job. Don't cheap out because Subaru didn't want to cover it.

As to the control arms, did you torque them underload? Or just bold them back in? If so... you just worn out your lower control arm bushings again. Very common mistake. been there done that.
And no there is no greasing lower control arm bushings.

Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@Mr.AC
Hey thanks for reply Mr.AC.

Please say you work with A/Cs because I have another problem with my apartment complex. Hahaha.

I should try and figure out the drum brake. I don't remember the exact story, but I took my car to the local Subaru dealer for a loud groaning sound coming from one of the rear wheel areas. They looked at it charged me like a $1,000 and told me it was fixed. I told them it sounded like a wheel bearing was going before as well, because I had already replaced one myself somewhere else on the car. They did something not related to the wheel bearing (and charged me a good amount). I drove it off the lot and drove right back and asked for a manager. I said, “hey nothing has changed, and you just charged me for something. The manager (who seemed like a good guy) got in the car with me drove about 100 yards and said um that is the wheel bearing. They replaced it for free. This is where I think something went wrong, because right afterwards I was a on this dirt road and the emergency brake exploded a good thirty miles form a highway or cell service.

Now I must admit I did pull on the parking brake (because I think it is no longer called an emergency brake) going about 30 mph on a dirt road trying to slide the back end, but it exploded as soon as I pulled it. I took the wheel and hub off and all the parts just feel out on to the dirt road. I took them all out except for the wire I tucked it somewhere in the drum area so it wouldn’t get caught. I got a mechanic to come up from Del Rio for $200 to confirm I was okay. He said that shouldn’t have happened at all. I agreed sense I done that with almost every car I owned up until that point. Brought it back to the same dealer and they said don’t worry about it you don’t need it. Weird.

You think I can replace the drums easy? What if the cable is not the proper length after the explosion?

I moved to Dallas from Austin and I am seeing a new dealer. They said I might just have worn strut tops or hat bearing. I am replacing them all with FHI/STI hats while I replace the struts. I am hoping that gets rid of the sound, but then I will do the control arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@bman400 You mean it doesn't come equipped with the WRX Rally professional parking brake setup to start those turns early? Kidding.

I had only used it as a parking brake to my family's ridicule. I still don't get why it is looked down up to use the parking brake with an automatic. I was in such a habit of using from manual I guess. I don't think the brake is supposed to explode like that at all though. I mean that is what the mechanic from Del Rio, TX said to me. He thought the dealer may not properly installed drum brake properly when they replaced the ball bearing.
 

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I mean that is what the mechanic from Del Rio, TX said to me. He thought the dealer may not properly installed drum brake properly when they replaced the ball bearing.
Well I personally have not been a fan of many mechanics in TX, I live in DFW and have a strong dis-trust of mechanics in general due to the odd-ball mechanics of a Subaru. Most mechanics in TX only do one thing! Pickup- Trucks and that's how they handle things. This view applies even to Subaru dealers. The only Subaru mechanic I trust is Autoscience in DFW. And there use to be a speed shop on Lamar Blvd in Austin, TX, but this was back in 2005, don't know if they are still there or not.

What would have caused your drum to explode? No idea, could it have been caused by the hand-brake turn? Could it have been caused by poor workmanship of the dealer? My last vehicle will 100% rear drums was my wife's 1992 Honda Civic which we sold in 2001. None of my existing vehicles are rear drum.


Also, I decided to replace the top hats and struts, because I am getting a lot of groaning sounds from my front end. While I was pulling and pushing on the driver side I noticed some fo the sounds coming from a recently replaced control arm. Can you grease those up some how? I don't want to replace them either.
Who/when did you have the control arms replaced? Do you have warranty on them? They are known to go, but usually when you get close to 100,000 miles on them. I am on my 2nd set of front LCA on my 2001 with 230,000 miles, just recently installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Who/when did you have the control arms replaced? Do you have warranty on them? They are known to go, but usually when you get close to 100,000 miles on them. I am on my 2nd set of front LCA on my 2001 with 230,000 miles, just recently installed.
I just replaced them back in March 2020 right before COVID. I can't remember what milage was I am at 140K now on my 2014. I have done pretty much all the work myself.

The only Subaru mechanic I trust is Autoscience in DFW. And there use to be a speed shop on Lamar Blvd in Austin, TX, but this was back in 2005, don't know if they are still there or not.
I mostly did all the work myself except that one time on the bearing down in Austin. Now I am in Dallas, but I am going to try that AutoScience next time for sure. I just have an axle and another strut to replace left today.

Thanks for reply by the way. Now I know a mechanic to try. I had driven around for like two days to get quotes and no one would do the work, because of my existing lift.
 

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@DirtyGBird The first time I had the LCA replaced was around 2010? Don't remember, but it was due to clunking sounds while driving over speed bumps and certain bumps. 2nd time was just recently, both my son and I noticed a dramatic change in handling the Forester pulled heavily to the left, so I took it in for an alignment and they determined the LCA was bad on both sides.

What sounds are you hearing? As long as the LCA bushings are not worn out I wonder if you can ignore the sounds?

I mostly did all the work myself except that one time on the bearing down in Austin. Now I am in Dallas, but I am going to try that AutoScience next time for sure. I just have an axle and another strut to replace left today.

Thanks for reply by the way. Now I know a mechanic to try. I had driven around for like two days to get quotes and no one would do the work, because of my existing lift.
The shop that did my front LCAs recently was Plano Tire on US-75. My only gripe about Plano Tire was they did not center the steering wheel and when I got it home, spent 1-2 hours adjusting the toe to straighten out the steering wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The shop that did my front LCAs recently was Plano Tire on US-75. My only gripe about Plano Tire was they did not center the steering wheel and when I got it home, spent 1-2 hours adjusting the toe to straighten out the steering wheel.
Yeah, I got that lifetime alignment thing from Firestone that they really don't adhere to and you have to argue with them each time I get it aligned.

@DirtyGBird The first time I had the LCA replaced was around 2010? Don't remember, but it was due to clunking sounds while driving over speed bumps and certain bumps. 2nd time was just recently, both my son and I noticed a dramatic change in handling the Forester pulled heavily to the left, so I took it in for an alignment and they determined the LCA was bad on both sides.

What sounds are you hearing? As long as the LCA bushings are not worn out I wonder if you can ignore the sounds?
Well the first time I replaced my control arm my wheels would vibrate at a slight turn on the highway going like 60 mph. I took it to the Rising Sun Automotive in Austin (they me be the place you are thinking of in Austin). They are expensive, but seemed to be really good. I told them my problem as they were closing and the guy just put it up on the lift and looked for the problem with me. One of the bushings was worn and he told me what to do free charge.

Now they are just making this creaking sound when I turn the wheels like in a parking garage when you make a lot of turns looking for a space. The Sewell Subaru told me it was the shocks and strut tops or hats the ones with the bearings. So am replacing them now. But when I was installing the strut and pressing down on the control arm trying to fit he bottom bolts in the strut I thought I heard the control arm making the noise.

I am going to just finish the struts replace a bad axle with a clicking cv joint, get it aligned and leave it for a little while, and then maybe replace those control arms if it is still making noise.
 

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Yeah, I got that lifetime alignment thing from Firestone that they really don't adhere to and you have to argue with them each time I get it aligned.
I too had something similar with their competitor I stopped using it as it was more trouble than it was worth. I have come to the conclusion unless I have slammed into the curb or any change in the handling or tire wear of the vehicle I DO NOT want to do regular wheel alignment. It creates more trouble than it actually fixes.
 

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@DirtyGBird
LOL no I don't deal with A/C, that' just my initials.

I'm shocked a dealer mechanic told you its fine to drive with out a parking brake. Some states you can't get your registration renewal if your car is missing basic safety equipment.

Any who, Youtube is going to be your best friend. Loads of DIY vids out there on doing rear brake drums.

It's a bit of pain, but anyone with basic tools and knowledge can do in their driveway.
 

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@Mr.AC OP and I live in Texas which is opposite to California. State inspections here are laughable. Parking brakes I don't believe are checked and people here don't use their parking brakes. TX Subaru dealers in general are horrible at best and not to be trusted. They tend to be off-shoots of the main dealership that carries for example FORD or GM etc....The big 3 due to pickup truck owners are the primary mainstay for car dealers here. Yes there are other like Toyota, Nissan etc....But... generally speaking a tech or mechanic at a Subaru dealership is not what I consider "qualified" to work on Subaru.

An example of how bad dealerships are. Back in 2007, I moved from Austin, TX to DFW. The dealership in Dallas recommended that I get a new steering rack installed because the tie rod boots were torn. So they installed a new steering rack. I tried 3 times to get them to straighten the steering wheel after their work was done. All 3 times they claimed nothing is wrong and that it's OK to not have a straight steering wheel and the pulling is normal!!!! Really, I even said, hey your alignment rack is broken and looked at me as if I was smoking really good stuff.

2nd incident, different Subaru dealer. There was horrible vibration from the front end. They kept on claiming it's warped rotors and I need new brakes. OK so I let them change out the front brakes. Still vibration is there. I ended up determining the issue was caused by damaged/worn out hub/bearing assembly (correct NO bearing sounds), had a local shop replace the damaged hub and put in new front bearings. I then replaced the front brakes again myself because the rotors were now damaged by this worn out hub!!!!!

Ever since then my 2001 has never been touched by any Subaru dealer. I refuse to take it to any Subaru dealer here in DFW for any service work of any kind. They just cannot be trusted. They have no reason to do any honest work and they know they can get away with it. There are just not enough Subaru vehicles here in TX in general unlike Colorado (Snow Belt).
 

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When you break a driveshaft, the transmission no longer works as a parking brake.

If you look at the rear rotor for the SJ Forester you would see it has the outer disc for the disc brakes and it has a drum in the center for the parking brake.

The torque pdf should be the information you asked about and the parking brake pdf will help you fix your parking brake.

Good luck.

On edit:
I use my parking brake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ugh, so I replaced all four struts and strut tops or hats and a front driver side CV axle. Everything actually is a lot quieter except the CV axle. It still clicks when I make tight turns, accelerate fast, or brake hard. I am just so frustrated. I may need to use AutoScience @bman400. I mean I just want someone to seriously take a look at it and tell me what is wrong. I can obviously do the work. My biggest fear is the lift I put on is just a little too much, but I would like to know.

Side bar: Firestone is still trying to tell me that I don't deserve my lifetime alignment. I went there today and the Dallas store said the Austin store should have never sold it to me. I think I have gotten 2 alignments out of it the lifetime alignment. I guess I got my moneys worth. Don't alignments run like $60 to $100 at a normal shop?
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