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2014 2.5i Premium CVT
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello folks, I am looking to replace both motor mounts for my 2014 2.5 CVT myself, and I would like to get as many tips and suggestions as possible from those of you who have done it. Little things such as should I completely remove the torque strut or just loosen it and leave it in place to maintain engine position as I jack it up? Also, I saw a video suggesting exhaust manifolds should come off to allow for access, but the video did not specific which generation car was worked on, so does that really make the job that much easier? Thanks in advance!
 

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2015 Forester 2.5i Limited CVT
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678 Posts
IIRC, you'll need to rent or buy an engine chain hoist to lift the motor up.
 

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2014 2.5i Premium CVT
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited by Moderator)
Not true. With any motor mount replacement all you need is 1-2 inches of clearance, so just need to jack the engine up from oil pan.


Browse through FSM a few times and looks like the manifolds need to come off. Because axles are right behind motor mounts, that means the mounts will need to slide off toward the front where manifolds are.
 

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2015 Forester 2.5i Limited CVT
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678 Posts
I, would use a hoist so that I can have more room to work. The pan lift works, but I would not do it that way. IMHO.
Iirc, the FSM states using an engine hoist. To each his own.
 

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2014 2.5i Premium CVT
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Again, not true. The chapter of FSM you are referring is for complete engine removal, which even includes steps to separate transmission and disconnect A/C lines from engine even though that is completely not needed to replace motor mounts. The FSM directs you to that section when you look up the motor mounts chapter, and it's just how modern FSM are put together and does not mean that is the only way to get a less involved job done, it's just so they could write one less chapter.

In reality you will not gain more room just because you use a hoist, because everything that binds beyond a 2 to 3 inch lift would still bind. If you need more room than that, you will have to literally disconnect everything (including transmission and A/C lines), which at that point you can jack the engine 5 or 10 or however many inches to help you get the job done. The two lifting methods make absolutely no difference in this matter, and I would appreciate you stop countering on this specific matter.
 

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2001 Forester
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866 Posts
I drive an SF, 2001, with 218,000 miles. Still on factory motor mounts. So not sure why a 4th gen needs new motor mounts. What symptoms are you seeing that warrants new motor mounts?
 

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2015 Forester 2.5i Limited CVT
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Countering? I, choose to do it my way. You can do it any way you like. I will not use the pan to lift my engine. Using an engine hoist would work for ME. If not careful, you can damage the oil pan. I don’t think they’re as strong as they once were. Try lifting your Foz using the oil pan and see what will happen.
 

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2012 Forester X
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7 Posts
I drive an SF, 2001, with 218,000 miles. Still on factory motor mounts. So not sure why a 4th gen needs new motor mounts. What symptoms are you seeing that warrants new motor mounts?
Im looking at mine at 185000. It pops in reverse and engine jolts a little on driver side
 

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2017 forester
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14 Posts
I just tackled both motor mounts and the pitch mount yesterday. Took all day..... But I'm a noob. And the used Subaru motor mount I bought off eBay had a different diameter bolt where it slides into the subframe, so I had to open up the subframe hole and use lug nut as a temporary nut lol. Same part number, but it was off of a BRZ so they must of updated it. My recommendation, buy it new. Thankfully my used motor mounts were good, but you don't want to do this twice.

1. Remove intake airbox and pitch mount, clips, 10mm, 14mm
2. Put car on Jack stands and remove front wheels
3. Remove headers and cat midpipe, 14mm
4. Remove front and mid plastic skid guard thing?, Clips, 12mm, 14mm
5. Remove steering rack cover and both brackets for clearance, 14mm
6. Shake steering rack loose for clearance
7. Lift engine few inches with Jack + wood block
8. Replace motor mount, 14mm

Tips:
  • Power tools for all the 14mm
  • Access motor mount from the back
  • Use another wrench to extend and leverage to break bolt (important)
  • 14mm flex head ratchet wrench once broken
  • Driver side sucks
Something I wish I knew. When holding up the steering rack, have the wheels straight. The car drives straight, but the steering wheel is off center.
 
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