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2014 - DIY Oil and Filter change

56019 Views 121 Replies 57 Participants Last post by  frankinmaine
I would like to get a thread started for those of us getting our oil and filter changed in Non-Turbo engines.

--I looked to see if there was one started but didn't see anything specific for Non-Turbo 2014 engines, but if there is feel free to merge :rock:--



Please state if applicable...

- Oil and filter your using and why you like that product.
- If your taking it in to have it serviced, where?
- DYI?
- Come across any issues?
- Have any tips for others?
- What trim is your foz?
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I would like to get a thread started for those of us getting our oil and filter changed in Non-Turbo engines.

--I looked to see if there was one started but didn't see anything specific for Non-Turbo 2014 engines, but if there is feel free to merge :rock:--



Please state if applicable...

- Oil and filter your using and why you like that product.
- If your taking it in to have it serviced, where?
- DYI?
- Come across any issues?
- Have any tips for others?
- What trim is your foz?
Going to DIY my own oil change as soon as it's above 5 degrees outside. Got everything I need.

Subaru 15208AA15A ($6.59) Oil Filter
Subaru 803916010 ($1.20) Gasket (crush washer)
Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 0W20 (5 Qt) ($22.47 @Wally world)
Fumoto F-108N Quick Valve ($32.29 shipped)

Nick
Our plan is to take advantage of the dealer's "free lifetime oil changes", as long as it's not a hassle and they use proper products.

Black Limited.
I would like to get a thread started for those of us getting our oil and filter changed in Non-Turbo engines.

--I looked to see if there was one started but didn't see anything specific for Non-Turbo 2014 engines, but if there is feel free to merge :rock:--



Please state if applicable...

- Oil and filter your using and why you like that product.
- If your taking it in to have it serviced, where?
- DYI?
- Come across any issues?
- Have any tips for others?
- What trim is your foz?
-Bought a case of 12 Subaru oil filters and crush washers from SubaruPartsOnline (supporting vendor)
-Will use Mobil-1 0w-20
-Definitely DIY - no one but me has changed the oil in any of my cars in the last 35 years.
-Limited & lovin' it (our first Subie) :biggrin:
Napa Gold Filter 7830
Mobile 0w-20
I have an oil valve so no need for washers.
2014 Forester 2.5i Limited

I am a first time Subaru owner, still in disbelief I bought an import. The Subaru dealerships here in the Motor City were unbelievably disappointing. One of the bimbo sales woman we spoke to re-iterated that the 2014 2.5i Forester only needed regular gas, and conventional motor oil, so I've just had that in my head. I get home and start reading the manual, and reading these posts to realize differently. I've never ran synthetic oil in any of my rides. Cheapest oil change specials have gotten me 200k + on almost every car I've owned. Here in this thread you guys are seriously using OEM oil filters?!?!

So, Is everyone really running full synthetic in these cars, and does the Chinese sweatshop the oil filter came from really make that much of a difference?

:Banane37:
I also will return to the dealer, for a few reasons:

1) Free Life Time Oil and Oil Filter Changes (Subaru 0-W-20 full synthetic Subaru Oil and the Subaru Factory Oil Filter) every 7500 miles or 7.5 Months WCF

2) I figure if something oil related goes wrong with the engine, less chance with warranty issues if the dealer completes the oil and oil filter changes

If I didn't have the Free Life Time oil and oil filter changes through the dealer, I would be happy to do the oil and oil filter changes myself, Subaru makes it simple to do
I am a first time Subaru owner, still in disbelief I bought an import. The Subaru dealerships here in the Motor City were unbelievably disappointing. One of the bimbo sales woman we spoke to re-iterated that the 2014 2.5i Forester only needed regular gas, and conventional motor oil, so I've just had that in my head. I get home and start reading the manual, and reading these posts to realize differently. I've never ran synthetic oil in any of my rides. Cheapest oil change specials have gotten me 200k + on almost every car I've owned. Here in this thread you guys are seriously using OEM oil filters?!?!

So, Is everyone really running full synthetic in these cars, and does the Chinese sweatshop the oil filter came from really make that much of a difference?

:Banane37:
I use synthetic in all my cars, whether it's specified or not. It's superior to conventional oil and the cost difference is $10.00 for a 5-qt container. I wouldn't use cheap filters either. For about $6.00 I can get high-quality Wix filters. It just doesn't make sense to me to chintz out on oil and filters. The good stuff isn't expensive and my cars are worth it.
I am a first time Subaru owner, still in disbelief I bought an import. The Subaru dealerships here in the Motor City were unbelievably disappointing. One of the bimbo sales woman we spoke to re-iterated that the 2014 2.5i Forester only needed regular gas, and conventional motor oil, so I've just had that in my head. I get home and start reading the manual, and reading these posts to realize differently. I've never ran synthetic oil in any of my rides. Cheapest oil change specials have gotten me 200k + on almost every car I've owned. Here in this thread you guys are seriously using OEM oil filters?!?!

So, Is everyone really running full synthetic in these cars, and does the Chinese sweatshop the oil filter came from really make that much of a difference?

:Banane37:
You sound disappointed in Subaru from the start so I'm not sure why you pulled the trigger... Most people do research on their own before they buy a car or a house. Look at your own experiences in going in somewhere having the "expert" give you wrong info that you know isn't true.

More to the topic ----> Chances are there are people in this forum that know more about oil, filters and changing it than some of the guys at Jiffy Lube. That's why I've started this thread to hear from the people that are getting it done by others or themselves. I've never changed my own oil and would like to start, I greatly apperciate the info I'm seeing here and I hope it continues!
So, Is everyone really running full synthetic in these cars, and does the Chinese sweatshop the oil filter came from really make that much of a difference?

:Banane37:
Well, ever since Castrol beat Mobil1 in a lawsuit over a decade ago, the term "synthetic" has be relegated to a Marketing term, rather than a Scientific term.

MOST oils in the USA labeled as "synthetic" are actually severely hydrocracked Mineral oils, and are called Group III base stock. The good news is, they perform really well, at much less cost to produce than truly lab-manufactured designer base stocks (the REAL synthetics).

Since the 3000 mile oil change is OLD-OLD-OLD school waste, buying a decent Group III oil (as opposed to a Group II or Group I Conventional base stock oil) and running it the recommended length of time, the costs aren't higher than the 3000 mile OCI's of yester-decade. If you really want to save some money, buy a good rated filter (there are many sites that have done the research for you), and leave it in place for TWO oil change intervals. Back up this practice with a Used Oil Analysis, and see how the Insoluables level doesn't rise...these are the particles that filters are designed to catch and hold. I've had cars that I'd leave the filter on for three OCI's, and the Insoluables level never blipped up. Filters that aren't being plugged up can get more and more efficient as they are used...most at least don't get anywhere near a full load of crud that requires them to be changed every OCI. Of course, there are aging concerns of the materials that make up the filter, and, some people have severe service conditions (high dust, short trips, etc.), so, you do have to change them.

There is a lot to learn about the SCIENCE of Tribology. Getting educated on this SCIENCE takes the Religious Zealotry "feel-good" opinions out of Oil and filtration discussions, and can result in big changes in outdated habits.
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^ There was no Mobil/Castrol lawsuit. Only a myth.

-Dennis


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
So, Is everyone really running full synthetic in these cars, and does the Chinese sweatshop the oil filter came from really make that much of a difference?

:Banane37:
Welcome..if you have the NA engine you need to use 0W-20 which will be a full synthetic. If you have the turbo you really need to use synthetic. OEM filters are used bc Subaru has a 26psi bypass pressure. I think the NA uses 87 octane (correct me if I am wrong)
I am a first time Subaru owner, still in disbelief I bought an import. The Subaru dealerships here in the Motor City were unbelievably disappointing. One of the bimbo sales woman we spoke to re-iterated that the 2014 2.5i Forester only needed regular gas, and conventional motor oil, so I've just had that in my head. I get home and start reading the manual, and reading these posts to realize differently. I've never ran synthetic oil in any of my rides. Cheapest oil change specials have gotten me 200k + on almost every car I've owned. Here in this thread you guys are seriously using OEM oil filters?!?!

So, Is everyone really running full synthetic in these cars, and does the Chinese sweatshop the oil filter came from really make that much of a difference?

:Banane37:
Not to pile on as I'm sure we've all been disappointed or surprised by one thing or another during a car purchase.

However, I can assure you that almost all new cars require synthetic oils now. Everything from pickup trucks to the cheapest Eco cars all spec synthetic oils now (longer change intervals and better mpg).

So, unless your were used car shopping, your Dino days are over.
^^Speaking of dinosaurs....

So, oil comes from dead dinosaurs, right? Plastic is made from oil.
Toy dinosaurs are made of plastic.
Ergo, plastic dinosaurs are made from dead dinosaurs. :D
^^Speaking of dinosaurs....

So, oil comes from dead dinosaurs, right? Plastic is made from oil.
Toy dinosaurs are made of plastic.
Ergo, plastic dinosaurs are made from dead dinosaurs. :D
What goes around comes around?
^ There was no Mobil/Castrol lawsuit. Only a myth.

-Dennis
I bet you think Sasquatch is a myth, too, don't you? :icon_wink:

I spent about half a decade, hundreds of dollars, and thousands of hours studying about and testing different oils in many engines. After all that effort, although I really learned a lot...I'm still not a qualified Tribologist.

One of the things I learned was that while some people don't care enough (never check their oil level, don't watch mileage or conditions they operated the engine), there is a subset of people that really wring their hands over any perceived notion that the oil/filters they use aren't "THE BEST". In actuality, in almost all modern, Fuel-injected, non-severe operating conditions, non-turbo vehicle engines commonly sold in the USA, using oil in the correct viscosity and API rating will result in engine life which far exceeds the life of automatic transmissions in these cars, just by following the minimal recommendations in the owner's manual. I mean, how long do you want an engine to last, and at what cost?

A good Group-III base stock in the correct viscosity with an appropriate additive package (I'm not referring to buying additional additives, I'm referring to the additives put into the base stock at the manufacturing plant), and a decent filter, changed according to the mileage/time listed in the manual, is more than adequate for the vast majority of engines. Varying a bit off of the manual is usually OK, too. If you want to run a 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, or whatever, your engine will probably do just fine. If you wonder about it, get a Used Oil Analysis read by an actual Tribologist (not just the clerk at XWY UOA company), and verify the performance of your choices. It can be fun and educational, if you like that kind of thing.
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I don't even know what you're talking about but the complaint that Mobil brought against Castrol was brought to the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau. There was no lawsuit, no judge, and no jury. :)

-Dennis


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
You sound disappointed in Subaru from the start so I'm not sure why you pulled the trigger... Most people do research on their own before they buy a car or a house. Look at your own experiences in going in somewhere having the "expert" give you wrong info that you know isn't true.

I did my research, which is why humored salesman, and waited about a month and a half to get the one I wanted. My comment was merely a slam at the dealership support in this market. I am just over the 3750, and doing the 1st oil change today. The cost of synthetic isn't as bad as I thought, just never really shopped for it before. AdvanceAutoParts.com has a special on Mobil 1 oil and filter for $30 if you buy two oil changes. I'm getting 4! LOL

Mobil 1 Model M1 110 - Oil Filter

I confirmed this is the correct part number from Mobil, and another parts store. They had it in 2 of my local chain stores, but told me "That's not what my computer tells me". Has anyone else experienced issues with parts/info? Or am I just getting this cause it's a '14. I know I won't be able to run up to the corner and get everything I need for a brake change on a Sun afternoon like my Crown Vic, but my closest dealership is 30+mins away.

:puke:
Going to DIY my own oil change as soon as it's above 5 degrees outside. Got everything I need.

Subaru 15208AA15A ($6.59) Oil Filter
Subaru 803916010 ($1.20) Gasket (crush washer)
Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 0W20 (5 Qt) ($22.47 @Wally world)
Fumoto F-108N Quick Valve ($32.29 shipped)

Nick
Just got done with my 1st oil change on the Forester. I must be getting old, as I couldn't get my hand out of that access fast enough, made a complete mess. That Fumoto F-108N Quick Valve is sounding pretty good right now. It seems brilliant to me, but I explained it to a couple friends that are mechanics, and they were VERY skeptical, saying they would only go with a bolt. Have you used these in the past / how's it holding up?
Just got done with my 1st oil change on the Forester. I must be getting old, as I couldn't get my hand out of that access fast enough, made a complete mess. That Fumoto F-108N Quick Valve is sounding pretty good right now. It seems brilliant to me, but I explained it to a couple friends that are mechanics, and they were VERY skeptical, saying they would only go with a bolt. Have you used these in the past / how's it holding up?
Originally Posted by Warpig
Going to DIY my own oil change as soon as it's above 5 degrees outside. Got everything I need.

Subaru 15208AA15A ($6.59) Oil Filter
Subaru 803916010 ($1.20) Gasket (crush washer)
Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 0W20 (5 Qt) ($22.47 @Wally world)
Fumoto F-108N Quick Valve ($32.29 shipped)

Nick


F-108N Quick Valve also sounds good, Did first OCI at 2,00 miles, Dealer will do rest for next 45009 miles / 3 years miles Sny oil & Filter every 7.5K.

Wanted to change oil befor 7,500 miles.

What is differnce between the Blue 15208AA15A filter and the as manufactured fblack filter ending in 160?

Looking inside, releif valve looks different.

0-20 Wt just pees out of drain hole, messy.
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