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2014 - alloys lug nut torque spec?

('14-'18) 
77K views 29 replies 13 participants last post by  2.5x_sleeper 
#1 ·
I have a '14 Touring model with alloys, and it is time to rotate tires/wheels.

Is there a published torque spec on the lug nuts for the '14 models? after searching here, I've seen 67.5 ft-lbs for steel wheels on earlier models, and 80 ft-lbs for previous model years with alloys...

also, what are the rotation positions - front to back, or cross-front to back? I know part of it would depend on if there are uni-directional tires, obviously.
 
#2 ·
The 2014 Forester wheel lug torque spec is 89 lb-ft. See page 12-9 in the OM; there's no distinction between steel wheels and alloy wheels.

See 2014 OM page 11-28 for recommended tire rotation patterns. For regular ol' tires (i.e., the OEM tires), it's front-to-back on the same sides, and back-to-front changing sides.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer
 
#5 · (Edited)
I agree.

The lug sizes haven't changed (M12x1.25). The lug material hasn't changed (8.8 - nothing really special). The torque should be ~65 ft-lbs dry.

Grease your wheel studs and reduce the torque to 50 ft-lbs. That way, you can get them off, without losing your good humor, if you ever have to change the tire on the roadside.
 
#10 ·
Gross overkill. You're probably stretching the lugs.

Determine the size and thread of the fastener. Look on the internet (or in a machinest's manual or in a dozen other places) for the recommended torque for that size and thread fastener.

Seriously consider greasing the lugs and reducing the torque. -It makes it a lot easier (or even possible!) to change a tire on the side of the road. And, it reduces the chance of the lug nut seizing to the wheel. You might add a cheater pipe to your on-vehicle tool kit to extend the short handle of the on-vehicle lug wrench.

For steel lugs with steel nuts, torque is not that critical. But 90 ft-lbs is a lot of torque - probably too much. Too much going on and too hard to get it off after it has rusted or corroded to the wheel over the winter.
 
#14 ·
If I were, it would be causing problems over time. On the cars I autocross, I've swapped wheels/tires dozens of times a year. Zero problems.
You probably won't have a problem... right up until the time the stud snaps off. At 90 ft-lbs, that might never happen.

But why do this? It just makes the wheels harder to take off and on, and serves no purpose. The lug nuts don't provide anymore grip or strength at 90 ft-lbs than they do at 60. All you're doing is just elongating the studs a little more. For an 8.8 grade stud, I don't know when the stud will permanently deform, but that information is certainly available.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Apply it to the threads, the nuts, doesn't matter.

If I'm in a good mood, I'll use anti-seize compound, but it's not necessary. With steel wheels, there is no "different metals" issue. Alloy wheels might seems like an issue but they seem to be fairly stable.

Regular cup grease works fine. Lithium - white grease - works okay too but it's fairly light in weight.
 
#20 ·
I'll argue that most of the people on this forum can take off a lug nut (that's been torqued properly, with a torque wrench) using the factory wrench.

I feel better when I know that certain components are torqued to spec. wheels are one, brakes are another. I've seen what happens when they are not, and it ain't pretty.
 
#23 ·
nope, that's next weekend.
Correct. But keep an eye on the tire shop guy with an impact wrench. When he hammers the nut with his impact wrench set at 150 ft-lbs (and pops it 4 times, just to be sure), getting it off can be tricky.

Another user pointed out, correctly, that you need to reduce the specified torque for lubricated fasteners. One of the advantages of lubricating the fastener is that you can get the desired 'grip' or stretch with ~1/3 less torque. Where's the downside on this? Why would anyone not lubricate their lug nuts?
we all know about that kid at the tire shop. often times, it is done because the owner wants to make sure he's not sued because a wheel fell off when it was under-torqued. last time I had tires put on my A4 waggie, I watched the tech hand-torque the lug bolts (yes, lug bolts, not nuts) - that was satisfying to see.

I don't think any user pointed out that you get the desired torque on a lubed fastener at 1/3 the spec'd value. I'd be careful using that as a guideline, as I think it would depend on the substance used.
 
#26 ·
Torqued to 67 ft-lbs with anti-seize applied, and using McGard spline lugs and key locks. This is on the stock XT wheels.

I realize the owner's manual says 89 ft-lbs (dry) with the OEM lugs. I did not see the need to go any tighter than this. I've been driving around at 65 ft-lbs with no issues, but decided to check torque and then raised it by 2 ft-lbs. But, I will not be going any tighter on them. Resurrecting this one to see what everybody else is torquing lugs to? And if you live where winter is an actual thing like me, do you apply anti-seize as well?
 
#27 ·
When wheels are installed, most wheel manufacturers recommend rechecking the lug nut torque after driving 25 miles.

We do this on our vehicles, rechecking the lug nut torque until it's stable & doesn't change. Once stabilized, the lug nut torque doesn't change & doesn't need to checked as often.

Bobby...

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
#28 ·
For some reason Subaru has been steadily increasing the recommended number. I use to do 68; now I'm up to 80.

Whatever number you choose, follow Bobby's recommendations regarding recheck till stable. Which reminds me — I gotta go do this since I swapped off the snows a few days ago.
 
#30 ·
The instructions that came with the XXR wheels we have on our Foresters have a recommended torque range for the wheel stud size: 12 mm = 70 to 80 ft-lbs We torque our wheel lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs.

Bobby...

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
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