Hoping this can help some other save money on an FB25 engine replacement and have more confidence about a DIY. I'm mechanically inclined and have done almost everything else vehicle maintenance and repair related over the years, but this was my first engine swap.
Anyway, I bought a 2013 Forester X Premium with the FB25A. It was run low on oil I presume and threw a rod through the bottom rear of the block.
I found an engine from a 2013 Legacy that had about 76,000 miles on it which was about $1000 cheaper than any Forester engine available with reasonable mileage within hundreds on miles. It was a C VIN where my Forester was an A VIN. After some reading I determined this wasn’t an issue.
I took me the entire weekend mostly because I was working slow and cleaning things in the engine bay as I worked.
I had to swap over the wire harness (don't worry about marking anything, it's dead simple to figure out where things plug in), two sensors (you’ll know because the connector won’t fit), the A/C compressor bracket and the flywheel/flexplate (not sure if it matters but there are markings on the back to line it back up). There will also be a sensor that has no connector on the Forester harness, it's the oil level sensor that the Legacy has (figures huh) and you can just leave it disconnected, but don't remove it.
I used the throttle body from the newer engine since it was cleaner.
For the ignition coils I had to swap the boot and spring portion (they pull off) from the new coils onto the old coils, and get new bolts from the hardware store (30mm) along with some nylon spacers to take up the gap.
After replacing and filling them fluids and reconnecting the battery and exhaust it fired right up. No warnings or lights.
I purchased new fluids, oil filter, spark plugs, and exhaust manifold gaskets. The load leveler on the hoist was key to getting it done solo. You’ll also want a floor jack to help move the transmission up/down to align with the engine. Other than that common tools were used with some extensions for the sockets, had to get a 22mm 1/2” socket and breaker bar to turn over the engine though. I should’ve done the serpentine belt, tension and idler pulleys at the same time, but they’re easy to access on this engine.
The factory service manual, this forum as well as the discussion here (subaru FB25 engine interchange| Grassroots Motorsports forum |) helped me out tremendously.
Anyway, I bought a 2013 Forester X Premium with the FB25A. It was run low on oil I presume and threw a rod through the bottom rear of the block.
I found an engine from a 2013 Legacy that had about 76,000 miles on it which was about $1000 cheaper than any Forester engine available with reasonable mileage within hundreds on miles. It was a C VIN where my Forester was an A VIN. After some reading I determined this wasn’t an issue.
I took me the entire weekend mostly because I was working slow and cleaning things in the engine bay as I worked.
I had to swap over the wire harness (don't worry about marking anything, it's dead simple to figure out where things plug in), two sensors (you’ll know because the connector won’t fit), the A/C compressor bracket and the flywheel/flexplate (not sure if it matters but there are markings on the back to line it back up). There will also be a sensor that has no connector on the Forester harness, it's the oil level sensor that the Legacy has (figures huh) and you can just leave it disconnected, but don't remove it.
I used the throttle body from the newer engine since it was cleaner.
For the ignition coils I had to swap the boot and spring portion (they pull off) from the new coils onto the old coils, and get new bolts from the hardware store (30mm) along with some nylon spacers to take up the gap.
After replacing and filling them fluids and reconnecting the battery and exhaust it fired right up. No warnings or lights.
I purchased new fluids, oil filter, spark plugs, and exhaust manifold gaskets. The load leveler on the hoist was key to getting it done solo. You’ll also want a floor jack to help move the transmission up/down to align with the engine. Other than that common tools were used with some extensions for the sockets, had to get a 22mm 1/2” socket and breaker bar to turn over the engine though. I should’ve done the serpentine belt, tension and idler pulleys at the same time, but they’re easy to access on this engine.
The factory service manual, this forum as well as the discussion here (subaru FB25 engine interchange| Grassroots Motorsports forum |) helped me out tremendously.