Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I wasn't able to find anything directly relating to a 2013 Front axle replacement using my poor searching skills. So i decided to take a few photo's, when i did the axle on my forester today. So this will be a poor quality write up of sorts. I got some steps from a FSM emailed to me that seem very overkill, however i will post them at the bottom in quotes. Aside from the C-clip CVs it is much the same as older ones.

As for the CV's i prefer the Refurbished ones over the "New" Autozone ones. In my experience with my Tacoma i find the aftermarket ones bind more at droop and the bearing cages are significantly weaker. I also have found the shafts are sometimes different lengths from factory and have cheaper boots. Having broken over 10 CV shafts i have found the Refurbished ones (with lifetime warranty) are the best value. Granted the truck has a front locker, 6 to 1 low range and i have a heavy foot.

1. Jack-Up Vehicle by the frame letting suspension droop. While the tire is suspended check for play in ball joints and tire rods.

2. Remove tire.

3.Remove the brake line bracket and the two Sensor brackets to give the hub some wiggle room, to get the CV out.

4. Mark the head of the Cam Bolt (top Bolt) make sure it goes back into the same position.

5.FSM suggests you removed the CV while someone stands on the brakes. Remove the CV Nut, If you have an impact gun that makes it easier and puts less strain on the bearing the FSM indicates is fragile. Loosten the Cv by giving it a whack with a mallet.

6. Remove the Cam Bolt and the lower bolt.

7. Drop the hub assembly and push the CV in and up i was able to get it through to pop up and forward without issue. At this point just don't grab the tire-rod end as you could push grease out of it.

8. Once the hub end is free pry the Diff end out with a pry bar. (it takes a bit of pressure to free the C-Clip and will pop out all of a sudden)

9. Compare the old axle to the new one ensure that all dust covers and seal surfaces on the new one are consistent with the old one.

10. Align the new CV C-Clip so the open end is facing down, push up on the clip and insert a dab of grease under the clip. Settle the clip on the grease to hold it with the open end down and so that it will slide in without getting hung up. Place the CV in the differential to fully insert i generally use the CV as a slide hammer of sorts, be-careful not to pull the boots off. On this one good push seated it, my truck usually takes a pounding with a mallet to seat. Fully seat the CV in the Diff.

11. Place the outer CV joint into the hub. Once it is through thread the nut on by hand.

12. insert and cam-bolt to original position and install lower bolt. To proper torque spec. 114-115 ft pounds. (or really just until its pretty tight)

13. Re-attach sensor and brake line brackets.

14. Tighten the CV nut to proper Torque spec of your vehicle, it probably wouldn't hurt to depress the brake while doing so. then index your new nut (or reuse the old one). Believe the Forester is 145 ft pounds or so.

15. At this point check everything to ensure it is tightened. Check the brake pads for Even wear while your at it.

16. Place the wheel on, torque lug nuts down. Test Drive.

This is the version of the FSM i obtained...

1. Lift up the vehicle, and then remove the front wheels.
2. Lift the crimped section of axle nut.

3. Remove the axle nut using a socket wrench while depressing the brake pedal.
Remove the wheel before loosening the axle nut. Failure to follow this rule may damage the hub bearings.
4. Remove the stabilizer link.

5. Remove the disc brake caliper from the housing, and suspend it from strut using a wire.
6. Remove the disc rotor from the hub.
If it is difficult to remove the disc rotor from the hub, drive the 8 mm bolt into the threaded end of rotor, and then remove the rotor.

7. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut securing the tie-rod end to the housing knuckle arm.

Cotter pin
Castle nut
8. Using a puller, remove the tie-rod ball joint from knuckle arm.

9. Remove the front ABS wheel speed sensor.

10. Remove the bolts which secure the sensor harness to the strut.

11. Remove the front arm ball joint from the housing.

12. Remove the front drive shaft from the transmission.
13. Remove the front drive shaft assembly from the hub. If it is hard to remove, use the ST.

14. After scribing an alignment mark on camber adjusting bolt head, remove the bolts which connect the housing and strut, and disconnect the housing from strut.


1. Align the alignment mark on the camber adjusting bolt head, and tighten the housing and strut using a new self-locking nut.
Tightening torque:
155 N·m (15.81 kgf-m, 114.3 ft-lb)
2. Install the front drive shaft.
3. Install the front arm ball joint to the housing.
Tightening torque:
50 N·m (5.10 kgf-m, 36.9 ft-lb)
4. Install the front ABS wheel speed sensor harness to the strut.
5. Install the front ABS wheel speed sensor on the housing.
Tightening torque:
7.5 N·m (0.76 kgf-m, 5.5 ft-lb)
6. Install the disc rotor to hub.
7. Install the disc brake caliper on the housing.
Tightening torque:
80 N·m (8.16 kgf-m, 59 ft-lb)
8. Install the stabilizer link.
Tightening torque:
38 N·m (3.87 kgf-m, 28.0 ft-lb)
9. Connect the tie-rod end ball joint to the knuckle arm with a castle nut.
When connecting the tie-rod, do not hit the cap at bottom of tie-rod end with a hammer.
Tightening torque:
27 N·m (2.75 kgf-m, 19.9 ft-lb)
10. Tighten the castle nut to specified torque and tighten further within 60° until the pin hole is aligned with the slot in the nut. Bend the cotter pin to lock.


353 Posts
Thanks for posting this guide, I couldn't find much else on the proceedure and torque specs for an SH.

I replaced both front axles this past saturday. Granted I have an air gun, but this was pretty cake. I left my brakes fully assembled as it didn't seem to make a difference at all for getting the axle loose from the hub. Took about 30 minutes per side, which kind of shocked me.

Don't think I saw this explained, but from the FSM when it says to "index the nut" on the end of the CV axle, that means to knock the end into the relief hole on the axle so that the nut can't back itself off, like this:

1 Posts
Thread revival but would the a/t fluid need to be drained to change the axles? Mine are clicking on full lock left and right.

3 Posts
Can anyone help me out, I am trying to figure out what brand CV Axle to buy and after looking through the forum I called MWE and Raxle and they both don't make them for 09+. I called the dealer and they don't have a reman for 09+ either. Napa has the reman from A1Cardone and Rock Auto has the new ones from Cardone Select but from what I have read people haven't had good luck with either of those axles. I would rebuild mine but both sides have been clicking for a long time so I am sure the bearings are shot by now.

Sorry for posting in this thread I wasn't allowed to start a new one yet.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts