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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hi again,

OK, so now the Forester has been doing good for about a month. The DPF light hasn't came on even once, and regeneration happens about every 100 - 200 km, depending on the driving conditions.
At least this was the truth until yesterday. :)

I had lend out my car to a friend to drive their caravan about 100 km. No data was logged during this trip, but all went nice. However, when coming back home, they drove at about 80 km/h in a slight uphill, when DPF light came on and soon started blinking and was accompanied by the CEL and a blinking cruise control.

When they got home, I connected Torque and found out that soot level was OK at around 40 %, oil dilution at 4 % and ash at 0 %. I had two fault codes: P246C and P2463, indicating that DPF was constricted.

Today, I had the car in to the authorized dealer, and they had no time to troubleshoot it any more deeply than checking fault codes and clearing them.

Now, the car runs fine (without caravan) and I'm wondering what I should do.

I'm afraid that the engine head is dirty like the manifold, so I just bought STP Ultra 5-in-1 Diesel System Cleaner and added to a full tank. I don't want to remove the head to clean...

Oh, it was very hot outdoors when they drove the caravan. Inlet Air Temperature was around 60 degrees C.

Do you have any ideas on next steps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
OK, it turns out the car run fine but only for 20 km, then it threw P2463 again... this time without any caravans or trailers.
The workshop has no time for troubleshooting in next two weeks, so I'll take a look at it myself. They mentioned the have had problems with the DPF pressure sensor, but I'm thinking that if that was the problem, the soot value would be crazy, and it isn't: it increases quite steadily, lingering about on 50~, and when reaching 65% regen starts and it decreases at a steady rate. I imagine that a bad diff pressure sensor would show on the soot level.

Am I correct that there is no way to reset the DPF limp home mode only with a ELM327? You need a full-blown SSM right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I just found out about FreeSSM! Will try that tonight with an ELM327 to USB plug.

Edit: Hm, just read that it won't work with ELM327.
 

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Hi! Have been following along and wanted to say that I very much appreciate the detailed information and photos. I am also interested in trying to find a way to see when my regen is taking place, and the intervals in between as well.

I have looked int an ELM327 device but it seems like there are loads of choices. Could someone perhaps recommend a specific unit? I am using an iPhone as well in case that makes a difference. Should I be able to see the info about the regen and DPF levels in there? I have a Taxtrix OpenPort 2.0 but no Win machine so I have not used it.

I do not mean to derail or confuse your thread so I can edit/delete this if needed. I am new here.. Mostly I wanted to say thank you for sharing the details.
 

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You can pressure test the sensor; if you have an accurate pressure pump and gauge, and can read the realtime data from ECU.

NOTE! The pressure limits, so you don’t damage the sensor.

My guess is that the Soot accumulation ratio, isn’t derived exclusively off the DPF pressure differential reading. I imagine its an estimate, derived from an algorithm that also includes air flow, fuel flow, engine load, and DPF temp.

Just checking; does your active regen come on at 85%? Mine comes on at 65%; so maybe there’s a difference in the engine tune.

It would make sense for engines to be tuned differently; to match the climatic zones, altitude, and locale that they will be operated in. It may be less, of an issue with an engine that utilises an O2 sensor; as it can somewhat self tune to the atmospheric conditions. However, since the EE20 does not; maybe it needs to be optimised for its operating conditions; in-order for the DPF to be less symptomatic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
You can pressure test the sensor; if you have an accurate pressure pump and gauge, and can read the realtime data from ECU.

NOTE! The pressure limits, so you don’t damage the sensor.
Good information!
The workshop called me yesterday and they had found time to look at the car today already. So I'm waiting too see if they have found something. I think I'll anyway test the sensor, and I think I can build something at work to accurately pressurize with 100 kPa.

My guess is that the Soot accumulation ratio, isn’t derived exclusively off the DPF pressure differential reading. I imagine its an estimate, derived from an algorithm that also includes air flow, fuel flow, engine load, and DPF temp.
That makes sense.

Just checking; does your active regen come on at 85%? Mine comes on at 65%; so maybe there’s a difference in the engine tune.
My bad - I wrote 85 but it should be 65 %.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Hi! Have been following along and wanted to say that I very much appreciate the detailed information and photos. I am also interested in trying to find a way to see when my regen is taking place, and the intervals in between as well.

I have looked int an ELM327 device but it seems like there are loads of choices. Could someone perhaps recommend a specific unit? I am using an iPhone as well in case that makes a difference. Should I be able to see the info about the regen and DPF levels in there? I have a Taxtrix OpenPort 2.0 but no Win machine so I have not used it.

I do not mean to derail or confuse your thread so I can edit/delete this if needed. I am new here.. Mostly I wanted to say thank you for sharing the details.
Hi fatship!

Thanks for the appreciation. Don't worry, I don't mind you adding your own questions in this thread. :)

As for ELM327, I have used several over many years, and some have worked better than others. Today, I use the following bought from Runns in Sweden:
Mind, though, that iPhone can't access the Bluetooth one, so perhaps you should go for the wifi device. I haven't tried that. Since I also use iPhone, I have resurrected an old Android phone that I dedicate for the car. Torque Pro does not exist on IOS, and I haven't found any app as good as that one. If you want to look at regens and DPF signals, you need to able to add custom mode 22 PID's.
 

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I just found out about FreeSSM! Will try that tonight with an ELM327 to USB plug.

Edit: Hm, just read that it won't work with ELM327.
I went down a bit of a rabbit hole today on this one. Seems like FreeSSM is a no-go for anything newer than 2009 from what I have read. I got an old Win7 VM working on my MacBook, got my OpenPort 2.0 recognised and working but then realised that FreeSSM only communicates via COM1/2 which the OpenPort does not emulate... Little more research and found some statements about FreeSSM not being functional for anything 2010 and later (no CANBUS models).

So it looks like RomRaider with the OpenPort 2.0 but using the ECUFlash install is the way to go. There are apparently a bunch more things that need to happen for that to work because I need to install special experimental definitions for 2010+ diesel cars. Unfortunately I had to walk away from it for now as today has turned a bit busy for me. Will check it out further as soon as I am able.

Hi fatship!

Thanks for the appreciation. Don't worry, I don't mind you adding your own questions in this thread. :)

As for ELM327, I have used several over many years, and some have worked better than others. Today, I use the following bought from Runns in Sweden:
Mind, though, that iPhone can't access the Bluetooth one, so perhaps you should go for the wifi device. I haven't tried that. Since I also use iPhone, I have resurrected an old Android phone that I dedicate for the car. Torque Pro does not exist on IOS, and I haven't found any app as good as that one. If you want to look at regens and DPF signals, you need to able to add custom mode 22 PID's.
Thanks! That's perfect. I will look into tracking down an older Android to dedicate to car use. Probably a good idea anyway.. Had looked at that unit but the price from Runns is better than what I found checking via prisjakt and poking around. Much appreciated. Have read something about the USB version not working well, but I cannot find it now (it may just be my imagination..).
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I went down a bit of a rabbit hole today on this one. Seems like FreeSSM is a no-go for anything newer than 2009 from what I have read. I got an old Win7 VM working on my MacBook, got my OpenPort 2.0 recognised and working but then realised that FreeSSM only communicates via COM1/2 which the OpenPort does not emulate... Little more research and found some statements about FreeSSM not being functional for anything 2010 and later (no CANBUS models).
Just to make sure, you haven't been looking at the old Sourceforge project have you? You should look at the Github repo. Here's a closed issue claiming it should work with newer cars with CAN: Support for newer (2010+) models · Issue #43 · Comer352L/FreeSSM
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I got my Forester back from the workshop yesterday. Strangely, one of the hose clamps on the new hose I fitted between the intercooler and the throttle body was missing (!). I didn't talk to the technician, only an administrator, and he couldn't tell which clamp it was, and he didn't know if the hose was loose or not, but I'm dead sure I fixed the hose at both ends (I mean, why wouldn't I?!). He also told me the hose was fitted in wrong direction... that I'm less sure about and it might be true (I still have the old one at home; I'll look at that tonight). So I guess it must have rattled off... Something I noticed after the problem began (with the caravan still on), was that inlet temperature was very high - about 60 degrees C. And the intercooler was vibrating a lot when idling (is that normal?). So maybe the heat combined with vibrations, and possibly that I had mounted the hose the wrong way (maybe it's shorter on one side), and running with caravan in a slight uphill (high load > more exhaust) should increase turbo pressure (or am I wrong?)... all of this could have led to the hose coming off...

I guess there's two issues I need to clear:
1. The high inlet temperature. I need to make sure it was just due to a very hot day and high load, and not cooling problems with the intercooler.
2. The shaking intercooler. I'll see if I can record a movie clip and upload.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
A quick follow up. It's warm outside today as well, and I can confirm that inlet temperature [1] is just around 30 degrees. It was 60 degrees when the problem came back. I looked at all data for July (54940 rows at 1 second intervals) and median temperature is 27 degrees; 9th percentile is 38 degrees, which means that 60 degrees is extremely high. Unfortunately, I don't have any logs from the actual trip when things crashed, so I don't know if the temperature was abnormally high to begin with (due to being parked at a sunny spot) or if it increased along with high RPM's, high torque or anything else.

[1] Inlet air temperature is derived from PID 22111F, equation A-40.
 

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inlet temperature was very high - about 60 degrees C
thats "normal" on low/medium load thanks to EGR. If you floor it, EGR closes and AIT should drop fast. EGR closes when injection quantity goes above 55 or RPM is higher then 2800.
I have recently saw even higher temps on mine (63-68 degrees) going constant speed on highway.
try googling pictures for lower part of intake manifold. The EGR is channeled to oposite side (where throttle body is) and is mixed with fresh air there. and right on the oposite side is IAT sensor, my theory is that EGR gases blow straight on IAT sensor and thats why it reads so much. as soon as throttle is applied, air flow increases and that cools IAT down immidiately.

Here are good pictures:

So maybe the heat combined with vibrations, and possibly that I had mounted the hose the wrong way
If hose clamps can hold fine, for example, 200 000km, I doubt they can rattle loose because of incorrectly mounted pipe if both ends of it are seated fine on throttle and IC, otherwise you would notice, that something is wrong. Maybe you forgot it? I have :rolleyes:
(high load > more exhaust) should increase turbo pressure (or am I wrong?)
boost level is regulated by ecu and cant go higher than ''normal''. only difference is that with caravan you can hold max boost longer because of slower acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
thats "normal" on low/medium load thanks to EGR. If you floor it, EGR closes and AIT should drop fast. EGR closes when injection quantity goes above 55 or RPM is higher then 2800.
I have recently saw even higher temps on mine (63-68 degrees) going constant speed on highway.
try googling pictures for lower part of intake manifold. The EGR is channeled to oposite side (where throttle body is) and is mixed with fresh air there. and right on the oposite side is IAT sensor, my theory is that EGR gases blow straight on IAT sensor and thats why it reads so much. as soon as throttle is applied, air flow increases and that cools IAT down immidiately.

I confirm that's true with my readings for the IAT, i.e. the intake temperature sensor in the throttle body. However, (I've double checked), I registered the high temps from the inlet temperature sensor, which is located in the air filter box (combined with MAF). I have seen such high temperature (>60 degrees C) once again, and that was when idling parked after a ride. That makes sense, since the heat spreads and there's nothing to cool it when standing still. So I conclude everything is fine temperature-wise.

If hose clamps can hold fine, for example, 200 000km, I doubt they can rattle loose because of incorrectly mounted pipe if both ends of it are seated fine on throttle and IC, otherwise you would notice, that something is wrong. Maybe you forgot it? I have :rolleyes:
I thought for a while that might be the case, but yesterday, guess what happens? I notice on acceleration the air blow sound that I've been getting all too familiar with lately. I pull over and open the hood, and notice that the hose clamp near the intercooler has come loose and the hose is barely sitting on the sleeve. Today, I took the car to the dealer and they looked at the hose and reattached it. So, I guess both myself and the technician screwed it too loose.
 

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60 degrees
I have seen 60+ deg C in the past. Hot summer daytime temps, with engine under load. It’s not ideal for performance (but there were issues at the time, so I assume it to be normal).

Intercooler does get heat-soak from EGR cooler, and the rest of engine bay (i had put a heat shield over EGR, and an air duct). However, the EGR gases are responsible for much of the increase in intake temp. If you compare Intake temps with EGR open vs closed; you should see that the Intercooler, is actually quite effective (I have a new WRX intercooler collecting dust on the shelf, for this reason).

A bigger or more efficient EGR cooler, could be a good idea. Or somehow routing cooler coolant from radiator to EGR cooler, rather than via the engine.
 
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