After many years of missing my Prodrive P1's on my old `01 RS. Which were basically Bilstein B6 struts with Eibach springs. Bilstein has FINALLY released for US Consumption the B6's & B4's for our Foresters. At least MINE. > 09-13....
These used to be limited to the JDM/EDM regions. With hefty shipping costs to get them here.
I just noticed they're available for my '18 this morning! My OE rears were feeling a hair bouncy this morning over speed humps on my way to work so I figure new dampers may be in my not too distant future. This could be the difference between keeping vs turning in my car when the lease is up. So I take it nobody's installed these yet?
Very interesting, I would definitely consider a set when ever my SJ KYB decide to go.
I noticed that there are different part numbers for the SH and SJ, makes sense for the brake lines brackets, but I wonder if Bilstein did different valving for for SJ vs SH.
From reading what @GTEASER did with his SH... The OEM SJ's fit our SH's minus the ABS bracket on the fronts. Minor MacGyvering them works. Need to use SH tophats, IIRC.
SJ's get an extra inch or so of travel, and the spring rates are slightly higher too.
Yeah, I put SJ struts on my SH with king springs about a year back now. I went with SJ struts due to having higher damping rates. There is no real increased travel with the SJ they are basically the same. And yes the ABS tabs are a simple nut and bolt fix. https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/#/topics/781873
I emailed bilstein about the damping rates,I’m debating if it’s gonna be worth going through it all again. Instilling the front king springs was probably the scariest game of high stakes jack in the box I have played to date.
I've been doing some looking into tophats. Seems the SJ uses same part number as the 2013 STI. I'm guessing that would be an upgrade with stiffer rubber?
I am going to get new locknuts for all the lower bolts. They don’t show the rears for some reason. Do they use the same as the front?Should I use new nuts up top as well?
I can’t see bearings for the front struts. Are these built into the strut mounts? Should I replace anything else at 45k?
I am throwing 1/4 spacers in the rear this time as well.
So after some back and forth with Bilstein they are unwilling to share any data or remarks in regards to the damping on the B6 struts for their struts(SH or SJ). They said that the application specific valving rates is internal proprietary information, They would only say for liability reasons use the struts that were designed for your application.
So, unless someone with a shock dyno can test them, the B6 for the SH or SJ are basically a "Heavy Duty" strut black box, and we don't know if they are really any different than OEM valving.
I posted in other thread, but thought I would put this info here as well.
Well I ordered the 2013 STI strut mounts. part number 20320FG012. Rallitek said they wouldn't work. But I'm almost certain they're wrong. The part number is identical to the SJ part number and from what I've been told, all the SJ stuff is a direct swap. Hope I didn't flush $100 down the toilet lol.
I finished installing the new struts/shocks and tophats yesterday. First some install notes. As normal, you should use new locknuts on the lower strut and shock bolts. I use Subaru OEM. The rear is different than the front, you need 4 new ones in front and two in rear. I mangled the last bolt taking it out and had to scramble to find one on a Saturday. The Bilsteins come with their own top locknut. I reused everything else except the tophats. The rear shocks came with intructions and torque spec for that top locknut. The front did not and I had to call Bilstein. Of note, the torque spec for that top locknut on the fronts is 36 ft lbs. The rear is less I forget off hand what that was.
Now I don't know just how worn my OEM struts were at 45k (27k on the pedders springs), but I could feel a major difference in resistance pushing them in by hand vs the Bils. I've only driven about 20 miles so far, but it seems these have been just the ticket I'm looking for. The car is light years more composed at speed and rough pavement. It is not harsh. No more excessive bouncing after hitting a bump. It's possible They could stand to be a touch and I mean a real little bit more stiff, but it's splitting hairs and I probably wouldn't feel that way in certain daily driving scenarios. For a daily driver its perfect. For the extra hundred, I recommend the tophats since you're in there already. Made a nice difference in steering feel.
There is a definitely a big difference between these and the OEM. My car never felt like this. For $530 ($100 was new tophats) it was worth every penny. I'll update after a week or two of driving.
Part numbers I used:
2 Top hats: 20320FG012 (These are stock on the 2013 STI and SJ forester)
I thought the B6 struts came from Bilstein with supplied (blue) dust covers... Also, I've read the fronts have the bump stops built into the strut (bottom of strut), is this true and you didn't have to use the factory bumpstops?
No blue dustcovers. My fronts didn't even have instructions. I reinstalled the factory bumpstops. I hope I didn't make a mistake. I think the internal stuff may be on B8's or higher (which aren't available for us). I'm going to write to Bilstein and see what they say. They ride awesome!
So, how u still liking ur Bilsteins B6's? just noticed today they're available. Gonna order a set after I read ur review. The stk valving is ok. But bouncy and not very compliant. Sounds like Bilstein did their homework and smoothed things out without losing composure. Thabks for your write up .
Glad to hear it worked out for you, Galager. I no longer do "multi-mods" and tend to replace worn parts of better quality rather than modify the OEM specs a lot. So I continue to lurk, waiting for someone to install B-4s or OEM replacement KYBs with OEM springs. Better dampers than OEM are not necessarily stiffer than OEM.
Great going Galager. I'm about to do the same but at selection stage, wondering if to go sj b6 rears and sh b6 fronts for compatibilty with abs brackets. But thankful for your write up especially about the tophats.
I just upgraded my Turbo to a VF52 and definitely need a stiffer suspension setup. I already have the stiffer Whiteline rear sway bar with Kartboy one piece end links which helped out a lot. I'm looking the keep stock ride height so what are you guys recommending? The Swift springs for minor drop(1.6") and B6 Bilsteins, or the King standard height Springs(3/8" to 1/2" raised)with Bilstein B4? Current milage is 61,000.
Any help, and suggestions would be great!
Thought I would show you the pictures with them installed in gap 1 and 2 . These are with Swift Forester lowering spring.
Low Down .... B6's as recommended to run on lowered springs by Bilstein. [guys were good to talk to]
Car is up a few inches higher than with swift's springs and stock shocks ..later KYB's [yuck]
Can actually haul stuff in back without scraping now lol
Don't have to bend down as much being taller.
More ground clearance for snow here in Manitoba.
Cornering is vastly better now. [feels much safer on onramps.
Ride on uneven surfaces is much better.
Nicer ride on the highway as can take dips and bumps better.
Enjoying them more every week as on 3 weeks now.
Upgrade is very positive and am enjoying. Hopefully guys can dial them in even better with different springs.
Have an upgraded 19 sti rear sway. 17' tires and put new moog tophats etc from Rock Auto [great service]
Shocks from Shock Warehouse [very very bad experience with]
Was going to do Koni's but this worked out well for me. Now have room for bigger tires lol
Decided to go with the Bilstein B6 and my current Tein H Tech springs for now. Bilstein's are currently in transit.
I plan on replacing most of the complimentary shock components.
Planning on getting the front 20320FG012 and the rear 20370FG012. Looks like Galager used the fronts but not the rears. I see no reason why the rears won't work as well.
Interestingly enough I found a service bulletin (TSB) regarding the 20320FG012 clunking and the bearing going bad. Sounds like Subaru fixed it after a certain date and the part number remained the same.
Thank you all for your input on this thread. It has helped guide me to what I perceive to be the perfect suspension upgrade path. I have a few questions while my parts are en route:
Planning on getting the front 20320FG012 and the rear 20370FG012. Looks like Galager used the fronts but not the rears. I see no reason why the rears won't work as well.
Rear Spacer Input
For those SH owners with Pedders springs + Bilstein B6 struts/shocks + STi front top hats (20320FG012), what size rear spacer did you end up going with 1/4" or 3/8"? If available, what are your center of wheel to fender measurements. Also, please include if you have an empty trunk space versus some cars with aftermarket stereo items in the rear cargo space (adds weight). With 118K miles on the clock I'd like to replace the rear hats as well (not sure if they change the ride height when using the 20370FG012).
Alignment
For the same suspension mentioned above (Pedders springs + Bilstein B6 struts/shocks), were you able to get back to OE type camber in the rear or did you need to use either a Camber bolt (Whiteline and a few others make these) or a new Lower Control Arm from Whiteline (this is what I grabbed). I opted with the LCA as it has a new bushing as well and with 118K miles I figure it can't hurt.
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