So, I know this has been a discussed a million times. When I looked it up to find an honest solid answer I never found one...so...here we are.
Subarpartswarehouse.com had a 30% off sale so I figured it was worth the risk.
Description:SPT Front Strut Tower Brace Part Number: SOA8431130
YES, it fits. You can buy it and install it and be done with it. No mods, don't have to remove the engine cover. Have a 12mm and 2x 15mm wrenches you too can install it! (Preferably a torque wrench for the finally tightening) Enjoy some pictures.
I've got one also. It was the first thing I bought for the car. Mine contacts the plastic lip that sticks out from the firewall, but it fits and has been fine for years.
Same here, little rain catch plastic thing, but by far nothing major as many have worried about. It's just a super minor small tuck of about a quarter inch, and nothing that would cause any sort of concern.
So, rear strut tower braces for 09+ dont really exist because all 09+ foresters are multi link rear suspension, and multi link suspension doesnt really need bracing like McPherson Struts. I have seen some attempts for 08+ hatch STi/WRX in the past but as I recall it didn't really do anything except take up trunk space.
Swapping the rear subframe bushing would probably do more to tighten up the rear of the car, but that is a lot more involved install.
I would add that I don’t think the front strut bar does all that much either due to the close proximity to the firewall. I’d put the Perrin damper lockout higher on the priority list, and it’s cheaper.
On my 09SHXT I had Swift springs, Whiteline 24 front 22 rear sway bars and Kartboy endlinks...thing handled like a gokart. I'll probably go 22/20mm this time around.
The only mod i've done with my current 2012XT is the SPT brace. I've noticed a bit better turn in, but nothing like doing the other bits.
I see you just couldn’t stay away from the foresters lol. I really can’t stress this enough, don’t do without the steering lockout this time. Cheap, easy to install from underneath, and kicked myself for not doing it sooner.
I might add the one brace that these SH could benefit from is any brace from the rear of the control arm to the sub frame, basically the H brace. Many of the braces out there will not list compatibility with the SH, but they work, the NA cars might have brace specific exhaust manifold interference. However, it is one of the few braces that you can feel the chassis stiffening even in every day driving, more so than any strut tower brace. I remember doing the cheap ebay H brace on my GR STi and being really impressed with the difference it made for the price.
Interestingly, subaru started adding this brace to cars around 2014+, I think the SJ XTs, and 2015+ WRX/STi all have a stamped steel version of the brace.
I might add the one brace that these SH could benefit from is any brace from the rear of the control arm to the sub frame, basically the H brace. Many of the braces out there will not list compatibility with the SH, but they work, the NA cars might have brace specific exhaust manifold interference. However, it is one of the few braces that you can feel the chassis stiffening even in every day driving, more so than any strut tower brace. I remember doing the cheap ebay H brace on my GR STi and being really impressed with the difference it made for the price.
Interestingly, subaru started adding this brace to cars around 2014+, I think the SJ XTs, and 2015+ WRX/STi all have a stamped steel version of the brace.
View attachment 522600
I went ahead and ordered a set of these. After looking at it all under the car yesterday it makes sense. I’ll let you know how it feels after I get them on.
Yeah it’s technically 3 bolts per side, but since I have a NA, and it goes under the factory bracket I had to loosen the 2 more bolts per side. It connects behind the factory under tray so there is no real interference.
Basically there is nothing really bracing the underside of the chassis from the cabin to the subframe. The subframe basically hangs off the frame rail the extends forward from the cabin, and the factory fender braces it some but nothing like connecting the cabin to the subframe.
In the GD(SG) generation there was the big U brace which did brace the cabin to the subframe and even to the radiator support core, but that all disappeared in the GR(SH) generation.
Most chassis components for the GV/GR bolts right up to the SH.
Everything for the GR in the HKS Kansai chassis product portfolio bolts right up
Most things for the GR in the Cusco chassis product portfolio bolts up.
Especially useful is front quarter panel brace from Cusco SEA
GR/GV STi's aluminum front ball joint lower control arm bolts right up
GR/GV STi's aluminum rear lower arm bolts right up.
14 onward STi's 20mm rear sway bar pairs better to the 22mm stock front sway bar than the older 19mm
And if you can get your hands on the Japan STi parts for the SH, there are a few pieces I would recommend.
Not sure why there’s a ground running from the exhaust manifold heat shield to the frame rail, but there it is and snapped clean off. Looks like a simple enough fix. I guess they used this unprotected copper braided wire due to the heat from the location. Should I use something similar? Should I...
www.subaruforester.org
After sorting that out, I finally put those braces in. Drive around today. Wow! The car is much more solid feeling now. Great mod and thanks for the tip! I could never quite place why the SH never felt as solid to me as the SG. I think this was it!
After sorting that out, I finally put those braces in. Drive around today. Wow! The car is much more solid feeling now. Great mod and thanks for the tip! I could never quite place why the SH never felt as solid to me as the SG. I think this was it!
Perfect, thanks! I am definitely going to try these. Found the Cusco part on ebay for $144 shipped. I already have the steering dampener lockdown from Perrin, and the STi 19mm rear sway on Energy Suspension poly bushings and Rallitek endlinks. I am pretty happy with things, but "solid" sounds like what I want to add. I'm also looking to install Swift sport springs - for a mild, comfy drop (because it has to be my commuter).
@Galager Thank you. I didn't find the first diagram you posted so that one clarifies the cross member support plate naming, much appreciated! Agreed on the 44.3.
Installed these bars last week and really digging the control the road feel they provide. Installed them along with the 20mm STI Rear Sway Bar with the Whiteline W0406-20G grease-less bushings KBR15 sway bar support brace. The Forester handles way better now and had a great run through Angeles Crest Hwy the other day. But here's where I need help....
Since installing the sway bar there is a creaking/squeaking coming from the rear of the car that happens only when taking turns at slower speeds, especially when pulling in the driveway and when any slight body roll is introduced at low speed.
Could anyone post a pic of the Rear Suspension Component Diagram that lists out the torque settings for preferably a MY 2013? If not a MY 13, an '11 or '12 should be fine as I have the 2.5xt Touring
I'm particularly looking for the torque settings for the sway bar clamp bolts that secure the sway bar bushings in place. I have access to a MY 2009 service manual and it listed 29.5 ft-lb, which is what I did during the install, but found a post on here that had a linked video that listed the torque for these bolts at 18 ft-lb.
Post: ('09-'13) - Sway Bar Install Help (Front and Rear)
Vid:
29 is fine for those bolts. Chances are it's a bad end link. When I installed a Whiteline FSB on my FXT, the old end links took a poop immediately. Replace the end links with Moog replacements. Also, just make sure that the sway bar is centered.
Thanks for the confirmation @GTEASER Thats what I was thinking but I got down there to check out the endlinks and the look fine. I figured if the endlinks went it would be pretty obvious? But then again this is all newer to me, so is there anything in particular I should be looking for?
Sway Bar also looks to be centered. I checked the space between the factory installed collars on the bar and the clamps as it's d*** near identical on either side.
Just order a set of the Moog Endlink replacements. Thanks for the reccomendation @GTEASER . This is going to be a dumb question but I gotta ask. Do the bushings on these have to be greased before install? Looked up a few videos and everyone seems to just pop them in and then that's it.
Yes, grease them. Remember to use the proper grease for the application. Poly bushings will come with grease. I also keep a grease gun around with marine grease, and that does a great job on bushings. I replaced all my rubber bushings with poly ones from Energy Suspension. And +1 on the Moog endlinks. I used them up front, where I have my stock bar, along with a set of Energy Suspension bushings, and everything went together really nicely (and yeah, I waited until my front endlinks ate themselves, too). I used the Rallitek endlinks in the rear, where I have an STi 19mm sway bar. Again, Energy Suspension bushings. Everything went together like stock, and I appreciated the adjustability on the Ralliteks.
Whiteline does make greaseless bushings...but can't hurt to put a bit in. (silicone based grease, NONO petrolium based)
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