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2012 Forester Manual
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Okay, thanks. Spun bearing. I've looked at this about a dozen ways. I doubt the second transmission will have a spun bearing on the main input shaft. So the bearing locked up one day and spun on the shaft. Not necessarily a repeated event. That's what you are looking at. This bearing is way in there and on the middle of that shaft. Just put the new transmission in with due care and you should be good. Tranny #2 might just have a noisy throw out bearing or something like that.
Throw out was repalced with an OEM one when the 2nd trans went in. Also, based on clutch pressure, I cant replicate a scenario that would point to TOB, the noise in neutral only goes away when the clutch is completely disengaged, you can hear the noise "spin down" and go away once the clutch disengages as the input shaft stops spinning
 

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2017 Forester Premium 2.5i, 6-speed manual, moon-roof, fog lights, skid-plates, winch, 2nd bedroom
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You could use a dial gauge on the flywheel and turn the engine by hand to see if it is running true. A bent crank or a bit of crude bolted between the crank and flywheel could cause a little wobble and cause a little flex on the shaft. An easy thing to check.
 
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2009 FXT
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You do have a pilot bearing in your flywheel I hope?

It wouldn't be the 1st one that didn't, that would kill transmissions.

Sent from my SM-G988W using Tapatalk
 

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2010 X Limited, 2.5L NA, 4AT. Purchased as the second owner in 2020 with ~126K miles.
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I was thinking check the main shaft run out with a dial indicator. Used transmissions and these are not known to be bullet proof under abuse.
 

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2012 Forester Manual
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
You do have a pilot bearing in your flywheel I hope?

It wouldn't be the 1st one that didn't, that would kill transmissions.
Yes, I replaced the flywheel with an OEM one, it came with the pilot bearing installed.

I was thinking check the main shaft run out with a dial indicator. Used transmissions and these are not known to be bullet proof under abuse.
Main shaft ... are you referring to the input shaft?
 

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2010 X Limited, 2.5L NA, 4AT. Purchased as the second owner in 2020 with ~126K miles.
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Yeah, yeah. Subaru calls it something like that. I'd have to look it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Yep thats the one in question. From some of the searching I did when the first one failed, there should be essentially no runout on the input shaft. Never thought to check the 2nd one before putting it in
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ok so the new (used) transmission is in.
I didnt find anything out of the ordinary when removing the old one. Other than when you turn the input shaft by hand you can definitely hear that one of the bearings on the shaft in making a lot of noise.
The pilot bearing on the flywheel was solid, nothing seemed loose with the flywheel/clutch assembly. Throw-out bearing was fine.
So the new trans went in and Im crossing my fingers it lass more than 6 months this time.
 

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2017 Forester Premium 2.5i, 6-speed manual, moon-roof, fog lights, skid-plates, winch, 2nd bedroom
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Hope you get many enjoyable miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
OK so I figured I would update again.
To be honest Im getting pretty annoyed at used part sellers.

So it appears as though this transmission has a bad center diff.

Car has been driving great only put about 160 miles on it since the used trans went in.
Got to work and went to back into my spot and got some real bad torque bind, or at least what I determines to be torque bind after reading up on it.
To be sure I tested the car forward and reverse at full lock left and right after getting home from work with the fluid warm.
Got the bind all 4 situation.
Let the car sit for about 5hrs
Tested it again .... no bind no noise.

Im going to contact the seller to see if they can reimburse me any. Luckily I can pull the center diff from the last transmission and swap it it for just the cost of new fluid and exhaust manifold gasket. Just kind of a PITA job.

At this point if I add up what Ive spent on two used trnamissions, fluid, and extras, I could have bought a brand new unit from Subaru. But a $3,800 upfront cost seemed excessive at the time when this all first started.
 

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2010 X Limited, 2.5L NA, 4AT. Purchased as the second owner in 2020 with ~126K miles.
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You know, used parts is a crap shoot. I went to the salvage yard this week to get some stuff. I'm looking to rebuild them and hold them in reserve for emergency service. The brake calipers were frozen and rusted. If I needed them, right now, I doubt I would be better off than with the failing pair. I took them back to the yard for refund. They weren't too happy about it but hey, it's their guarantee.
 

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One really needs to take a good, hard look at the economics before investing $$$$ into a 10 year old vehicle. Often, repairing is a wise choice, especially if you can DIY and save on shop/labor expenses, and the vehicle is in otherwise good shape.

Repairs can become quite expensive… and often do it quite rapidly. It can be advantageous in many cases to sell the vehicle and get something new or in excellent used condition. When looking at failed parts, it’s not terribly uncommon to replace a component only to have a related component down the line fail soon after.

Its a call only the individual can make, based on their viewpoint, economic condition, etc…
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Yea I hear ya.
She did great right up to about 150k and then poop started to fail quick

I do all my own work so there is a significant savings there, although at the trade off of not having a vehicle to drive if the repair takes a while.

Trouble really is I prefer manual transmissions, which are becoming hard to find

I was looking at some 2018s because thats the last year Foresters came with a manual, but honestly I love the Forester I have, and the engine still runs perfect and aside from some issues popping up lately, the car still drive great when it wants to.
 
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