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2011 Subaru Forester
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just wanted to give a head's up notice to anyone looking for an EGR, that the WVE brand part is an OE Subaru EGR. It's identical in every respect and even has the same part number and logo etched on it.
Wells Vehicle Electronics is American but also part of the NTK/NGK group, and the EGR I received from them was made in Japan. Best of all it was the cheapest option for one at RockAuto, and less than half the price of one from a dealer.
I installed it yesterday aft ( 5 min job) at 268,000 Km, because a few days earlier coming off the highway in hot weather my engine started to idle rough, and in Park, in my driveway, the engine was knocking. Given that in all other parameters the engine was working fine, and I had no malfunction codes, my conclusion based upon my research was that my EGR was stuck closed or failing to fully close due to carbon grit. So I gave my old one a good cleaning again ( did so last summer for the first time) as best I could, and took it for a similar drive to what caused my initial engine shaking, and all was fine. Mind you I had not been able to fully clean the inside which still had carbon and varnish deposits, and I suspected that it is causing the spring mechanism to stick occasionally.
Anyhow, I hope the new one fixes my issue. It's a bit of an educated guess, but for $100 or so, it is far easier and cheaper for me than bringing it to a dealer or mechanic. The car drove great afterward so I am optimistic. I will keep an eye on things for the next couple of weeks.
555231
 

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2011 Forester X
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Awesome thanks for the info. My 2011 idles rough on occasion as well. It seems to happen the most after long highway drives. I replaced the PCV valve and that seems to have reduced the frequency and severity of the rough idle. The EGR may be next. I'll look for your update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's been beneficial. It seems a bit smoother in all circumstances now, and even the power seems a bit better on the highway. No issue whatsoever now immediately after exiting and idling at a stop sign. I am pretty convinced that mine was no longer operating optimally even though it had not completely failed. There is a plunger kind of spring mechanism that pushes open to allow a certain volume of exhaust gas to mix with the combustion air. I suspect years of heat and soot have been hard on it.
If you have never tried to clean yours it's probably worthwhile. I did have similar instances of engine shaking coming off the highway last summer and cleaning it worked. When it happened again last week, I gave it a clean again, and that fixed things as well. However, I figured it better to replace it outright than have this be an issue again. I am just thrilled I was able to find the OE part at a great price. With taxes and labor, it would probably run close to $500 to change the EGR valve at a dealership. With a 12mm small wrench or 1/4 in ratchet you can remove the two bolts holding it on after disconnecting the wiring connector.
FYI it's the same part for 2011 to 2016 NA Foresters
Here is a how-to video on a Legacy with the same setup and EGR as ours
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All I can say is this was the missing ingredient in the special sauce. The car is running great and is more responsive. Previously if I had to decelerate quickly to make a sharp turn, there would a slight moment of hesitation and rpm drop. That is no longer the case. It also accelerates better at speed on the highway, and the idle is almost completely vibration free. Its a bit strange for me because I did not and still don't appreciate fully how important the egr is in optimizing your fuel trim.
Spark plugs, serpentine belt, a/f sensor, pcv valve and 02 sensor were all replaced last summer, and MAF, MAP and Throttle body were cleaned. I change oil at 5000 KM intervals and use 5w30 High mileage synthetic oil with a Subaru oil filter. I also cleaned the EGR last summer and it seemed beneficial, but nothing like the replacement. I am always amazed how bad things have to be to set off a code. The egr valve has both a mechanical and an electronic component and my guess is the former was sticking sometimes and the later had become less responsive over the years but had not completely failed. What I can say for sure though is that the Foz is running better with the new EGR, and I consider it money well spent. For what it is worth a friend with a 2019 Touring model was a passenger two days ago and commented on how smooth mine was and expressed surprise that it was a 2011 with 255,000 more KM on it than his.
FYI when cleaning the MAF sensor the visible external wires are for sensing air temp and the resistors or whatever they are that measure the volume of air are hidden and not readily visible. My guess is a lot of people clean the temp wires but neglect to properly clean the air flow meter component which is hidden down a tube.
 

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Cleaned my egr valve today after doing an oil change. It was covered in build up. I was amazed. But an incredibly simple component to remove and clean. Took it on a 50mile drive including highways and mostly back roads. So far all seems well. So that's a new pcv valve, o2 sensor, spark plugs and cleaned egr valve and maf for me. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Glad it helped. For me the key is to keep the engine operating as optimally as possible. I confess to going maybe a bit crazy here...I just decided to replace my MAF sensor as well. I can't say I am aware of any related issues and I cleaned mine very thoroughly. Still I am convinced that for reasons of age and mileage it cannot be completely accurate and the readings it sends to the ECU may be slightly off. Once again there was a great deal on the WVE MAF sensor at RockAuto for what should be an OE equivalent part. For roughly $90 Cdn including taxes and shipping its worth experimenting.
I am still loving what the new EGR has done. I don't think the new MAF can improve things much further, but I am curious and will report back when it arrives and I have changed it.:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I received the new WVE maf sensor and installed it yesterday. Unlike the EGR, its not the OE part though it appears almost identical and its made in China. That said no issues with it, and its working well. Has a division NTK/NGK clearly marked on the box, and comes with a 3 year warranty so I have zero fear for its quality. I can't really say its made any real improvement that I can really notice but the engine and exhaust seem a bit quieter with the tranny in Park. I will give it a few days for the ECU to fully adjust, and report back if the swap was worthwhile or not.
 
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