Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
2010 Forester
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After much research I installed the OEM hitch on my new Forester this morning. With the assistance of my 13 year old son, it took only two hours to finish, working very carefully. Two local dealers had quoted me $300 to $400 to get this job done, and they wanted more for the kit than I could buy it for on my own ($325 delivered through eBay). I would highly recommend this install for all but the least mechanically able. It is very simple, and Subaru has provided excellent directions. The OEM Trailer Hitch is of very high quality and installs in the Forester like it was meant to be there. No drilling or modifications are required.

Hopefully the following hints will help others who are considering this do it yourself install. I am following along with the instructions that you can download from Subaru.com's tech info section.

To remove the push pin fasteners from the right and left side cargo area foam trays just use a wide flat head screw driver. Pry the head of the push pins up and they will just pop out. Be careful that they do not fly to far. The pins do not break easily and can be used to reinstall the foam trays when you are finished.

If you have mud flaps, they will need to be removed. Remove the screw and use a medium flat head screwdriver to pop the center of the three push button fasteners out, and they will just pull right out. When you put the flaps back on, the screw should be torqued to 19 inch pounds. All of the push button fasteners are easy to reuse.

Two screws and eight push button fasteners hold the rear bumper fascia in place. Once these are removed the fascia can be hand pried away from the bumper. It will pop right off of the small notches that hold it in place. It is very light weight when removed and should be placed in a safe area where it will not be scratched.

You will have to remove the four muffler bolts. Wheel ramps really help to get enough room under the vehicle to work. Use Apscott's method of lubing the hangers with WD40 and sliding them off the innermost hanger so they drop out of the way without being totally removed.

A coping saw works great for cutting the notch in the rear bumper fascia. These little saws are very cheap and will enable you to cut the straight and curved sections of the notch out in about two minutes. No special skill is needed, this is very easy to do with the right tool.

The battery does not have to be disconnected when the wiring harness is installed. The provided zip ties are much to small, and it would be helpful to have a couple bigger ones on hand for attaching the external wires and connector.
 

·
Registered
2009 Forester
Joined
·
35 Posts
I too installed a factory hitch on my 2010 X Premium today, picked it up at the dealer this morning, had a discount coupoun so the price was just a few buck more than the hitch plus shipping off one of the vendors.

I did not drop the mufflers, tried doing it with out and I don't beleive it added any measurable time, did it in 3 1/4 hours, and that was looking for my coping saw (never did find it, so I used a utility knife and file). I had to push the mufflers an inch or so over to get the bolts in and torqued.

I also like the looks, and its clean and up tight to the body. You do loose the ability to use your rear tow eye as the hitch does not have the threaded nut on it. I guess you just use the hitch.
 

·
Registered
2009 Forester
Joined
·
35 Posts
Yes, in fact there are two outlines, the smaller one is for the factory 1 1/4 inch hitch and I guess that the larger one is for a 2 inch hitch that is available in other countries from reading other postings.
 

·
Registered
2011 WRX
Joined
·
144 Posts
You don't have to remove the mufflers IF AND ONLY IF you have a 13mm socket + U-joint + long extension, other wise you do. Took me 2.5hrs to complete the install, but chose not to "wire it" up since I only use the hitch for a bike rack.

Tip: run the bolts through the nuts BEFORE you try it on the car. Some are really hard to start since they have paint/powdercoat in the threads and you're upside down.

Tip2: when taking off the bumper, there is a small part in the top edge(at the very tip nearest wheelwell) that you have to be careful not to bend, make sure you separate it from the bumper before you pull to dislodge the clips.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top