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Discussion Starter #1
Photos below. I've pushed the pistons all the way in, the caliper itself fitting back on isn't really my issue. I'm able to get the top mounting bolt aligned no problem, but I just spent an hour trying everything I could think of to get the bottom hole aligned with no success. I tried turning the bottom mount clockwise to see if it would move in a bit further (hence the twisted boot in the photos), but that didn't seem to make any difference. I've only tried the front left side so far, ran out of time/patience while struggling with the caliper.

I ended up leaving the new pad on the inside and put the old pad back on the outside so I could get the caliper back on, but would rather not leave it that way. Anything obvious that I'm missing? The pad set came straight from a Subaru dealer, it's not some aftermarket junk that might not be exactly the right size.
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Could it be catching on one of the shims? It should slip right in there.
How about taking the top bolt out, slipping it over the pads and then putting the bolts in?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tried that. If I try to put it straight on, it ends up pushing off the outside shim, and then still won’t even go on. Didn’t grab a picture, but everything is sitting flush so I have no idea why the bottom seems to be effectively thicker when trying to put the caliper on. I was thinking possibly rust buildup, but that doesn’t seem to be the problem.
 
2017 2.5i Fozy CVT
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Did you RnR the slide pins? Regrease with silglyde brake grease? Check them for freedom of movement? Able to fully bottom each pin? Renew the bushed pin with a new rubber?

If the pins are frozen or have too much grease at the bottom of the pin bore... you will have the problem you are faced with.
 

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2015 Forester 2.5i Limited CVT
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Is it possible that
A. There’s some rust preventing full seating?
B. You have the wrong pads/clips or shims for your model?
That one slide pin boot looks bad. You may want to change it. Maybe that’s causing the problem? Clean the slide pins and use specified grease


compare old and new parts and clean all rust out and lubricate the pads and clips where specified.
There’s a new Subaru brake pad replacement TSB showing proper grease points and the new updated pad set does away with the extra shims.

Keep us updated. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Didn’t touch the slide pins, will take a look tomorrow. Hopefully that’s the problem, thanks!

And I’m planning to rebuild the calipers in the next couple months when I flush the brake fluid. The pistons look like they’re hanging on by a thread.
 

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Didn’t touch the slide pins, will take a look tomorrow. Hopefully that’s the problem, thanks!

And I’m planning to rebuild the calipers in the next couple months when I flush the brake fluid. The pistons look like they’re hanging on by a thread.
Based on the picture, not trying to insult you, but did you just push the pin in? There's a little lip on the pin, it just looks like you didn't push the pin in far enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not insulted, only ever changed pads on a motorcycle with a very different overall design. Honestly I didn’t even realize those were the slide pins, although it makes sense now. I did manage to twist it, but it didn’t move in/out at all.
 
2017 2.5i Fozy CVT
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Didn’t touch the slide pins,
now you know...every time you replace pads, inspect pins for movement and clean/regrease, as neccessary. A few extra minutess per side keeps the pads wearing evenly.
Most greases are petroleum based (,synthetic or otherwise )and will cause the rubber slide pin bushing .on the lower pin to swell.

Silglyde brake grease doesn't cause problems with rubber bushes.
 

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I had a similar problem and returned the pads to NAPA. They said most of the pads they install have to be ground down on the ends to fit. May be a separate issue but after grinding them down they fit and work fine. Good luck
 
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